Trip Report
Half Dome Unroped
Wednesday July 17, 2013 2:01pm
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This past Autumn I completed a ropeless ascent of Half Dome. Afterwards I concluded that this feat should be trivial to an average Hiker, as I saw many poor souls carrying heavy climbing-rope up the mist trail.
Here is my report, as dictated through my iPhone on my commute.
My great adventures began this summer, after my children were old enough to move out of my house and into their mothers apartment (which I pay for). This was ideal as now I could use the money I spent on a nanny to see the best mountains, and conquer them.
I got in around 4 in the afternoon, on a Saturday. The rental car was much faster than mine at home, and it was nice to feel the power in my hands as the Sorrento glissaded against the curves of highway 41. The overpriced place I was staying in, Housekeeping, had no housekeeping. I feel as if they could have a suit on their hands sometime soon.
The alarm sounded at 6AM, my usual wake up. That's when the cat feeder dispenses four treats and Yolanda starts vacuuming. I looked all over for an open coffee shop. Supposedly there was one open at 6, but they did not properly advertise. I contemplated the mountain, and my ascent, as I sat on a park bench carb-loading. At 7 the store opened and they, after much persuasion, let me in at 7:05(why is EVERYONE's watch off???)
I started hiking up just after 0800 PST. I had hoped to summit by 1pm and be back to the valley and my emails at 1600 hours. I had prepared quite easily for this trip, and after 2 hours was still enjoying my iPod playlist #1 (Hit Jams 2009-2012). Especially I had been enjoying Nickelback. Their early work was a little too new wave for my tastes, but when Silver Side Up came out in '01, I think they really came into their own, commercially and artistically. The whole album has a clear, crisp sound, and a new sheen of consummate professionalism that really gives the songs a big boost. They've been compared to Led Zepplin, but I think Chad has a far more bitter, cynical sense of humor.
I got to the base of the cables in 6 hours, a blistering pace. The mist trail was enjoyable, thanks to the mist, and the clouds followed suit, misting my fellow mountaineers as we searched for a gardening glove in the pile. I decided to ascent un-assisted.
The wet slabs clung to my boots with efficiency. Many souls were frightened at the cables; indeed, my mortality was being contemplated, by me. It was late season and they were against the floor, with no supports. One must lean over and grab them, exposing the buttocks. I darted past many hikers, and arrived at the top in a head-spinning 45 minutes from the bottom of the cables.
The summit was ethereal in beauty, with harmonious thunder to calm your soul. Many inexperienced hikers were running for the way down; indeed it was I alone who ventured UP on this afternoon. I assume they were inexperienced, as to be uncomfortable in Nature. My time growing up in the harsh desert of El Paso taught me many things, namely that it can be safe to sleep in a car and eat glue for survival.
I had several books on tape on the drive up, extolling mountain lore. One of which described a tecnique called 'gliss hotting,' whereas the mountain climber grips his axe and slides head first down an ice slope. Not having an axe, I found the cables to be a good substitute. Readying my body, I laid down face-first at the top of the cables and, with either hand gripping the steel laying flat against the floor, sent off to adventure.
Unfortunately, the friction of my Winners Only jacket made this descent impossible. Some newer hikers came from out of nowhere, wearing a seat-harness and carrying what looked like a mountain rope. They looked scared, so I offered them my jacket and a dumpling (I had many left; they were the worst part of my lunch). It took a while for them to set up the rope for repeling, close to 2 songs from Nickelback as I listened and waited, but once finished they wanted me to show them how to repel. It was curious to see them fasten a harness on me, set me on the rope and lower me to assess its safety. Once I had been lowered to safety, I assured them they did a correct job (I considered charging them a consulting fee but left THAT binder in the Kia).
I watched their absurd technique (lowering yourself???) and sauntered off back to the cabin, just as mother nature in all her beauty set off a light show on Half Dome. It was marvelous! I wonder if my novice friends saw it, they likely got front row seats.
I arrived just in time for the last shuttle to take me to my pizza party at the Lodge. I invited everyone with a tie on to celebrate my summit.
Remember, mountains are ominous and forebode evil. But I can climb them fast.
inspired by tales of adventure.
MtnSavior
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About the Author Ruben Ortiz is a Lawyer from El Paso, TX. |
Comments
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Excellent!
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
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Astounding! What an adventure!
Well done.
;>)
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
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Rad...we should get together and pull off a some sicko climb. Maybe an ascent of North Dome gully?
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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When did this place turn into a hiking forum?
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
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Well duh :)
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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Hah, hah, hah!
Thanks!
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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My wife is making fun of me for laughing out loud at the computer
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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Dude! You totally beat me to this TR concept. That was rad man. The poor dude who posted the "Grand Teton Unroped" TR will forever be famous around here and your report solidifies his as one that will be played out for ages.
Congrats on your sick send of the big beast. Just be careful spraying this info all over the internet. People are gonna find your secret dome and before you know it the cables will be crawling with tourists. This trip report made my day. Thanks.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
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This one time, at band camp, I totally on sighted this wicked route up the mountain.
Turns out it was the downclimb :(
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
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Dude, quit bragging. I've repelled much harder routes while not even wearing a climbing belt and I never boast about it.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
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Micronut, that you?
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MtnSavior
Mountain climber
El Paso, TX
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Author's Reply
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
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People are gonna find your secret dome and before you know it the cables will be crawling with tourists.
Have you heard of the internet? Half dome is LITERALLY the most sought-after peak. Just do a google search - "Half Dome Adventure" returned 1,830,000 hits. I am sure others know about the mountain.
What is of more interest to me is the route I ascended appeared to be the most difficult up the mountain - indeed, anywhere steeper was completely devoid of handles, steps or any kind of steel infrastructure. I think a more difficult face would require huge amounts of iron to ascend, like the north face. It is for this reason, and for the piton and power-bolt damage to the rock, that I feel the cables should be the sole legal means of ascent, to prevent further damage of future cables on future faces.
Ruben Ortiz
Author
Producer
Environmentalist
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
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Given the profundity of this recounting I am inspired to bolster my
cultural bonafides and expose myself to this Nickelback so that I may
savor this TR more deeply. Until then I am merely speechless, or so
many of you would wish.
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
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^^^^ buy a bolt GUN and conquer that S.O.B
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
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BWAAAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!
TFPU!!!
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
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This must be Radical or I'm Rick James goofing around again.
I recognise the Canadian pomposity.
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
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Hahaha, classic.
best tr in a while.
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labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
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Jul 17, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
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Nice! Really enjoyed the writing and the climbers style ;-)
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Jul 17, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
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But he likes Nickleback.
Nobody likes Nickleback but Canadians living in Texas and invalids.
Maybe that Jim dude or Anders whathisname.
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MtnSavior
Mountain climber
El Paso, TX
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Author's Reply
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Jul 17, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
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Timid, were you the young fellow in the Patagonia Puffy jacket? The one with an elbow patch? You have a beard and wore jeans?
Just trying to narrow this down. There was a self-proclaimed 'dirtbag' who, later that evening, made off with my bacon-bacon-ham pizza. He wouldn't stop talking about mushrooms and his mom's Subaru. It seems I meet this 'dirtbag' character every time I visit the valley, I wonder if there aren't more?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 17, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
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If micronut hadn't posted, I'd have suspected he had a new handle.
Hilarious and well done!
John
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Bad Acronym
climber
Little Death Hollow
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Jul 17, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
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Nice American Psycho reference! Ahoy polloi!
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RyanD
climber
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Jul 17, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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What a stupid as#@&%e ! You were totally out of your element & had to be rescued. I hope no n00bs think that this is an attainable feat & go kill themselves up thar. U cocky nickelback lovin, jerk lawyer from Texas yer gunna die fer sure!!
And you forgot the soundtrack!!!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
(Insert sarcasm emoticon)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 17, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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I wonder if he knows Burt...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jul 17, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
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One must lean over and grab them, exposing the buttocks.
A technique few but many have mastered.
Such graphics, too!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jul 17, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
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Especially I had been enjoying Nickelback. Their early work was a little too new wave for my tastes, but when Silver Side Up came out in '01, I think they really came into their own, commercially and artistically. The whole album has a clear, crisp sound, and a new sheen of consummate professionalism that really gives the songs a big boost. They've been compared to Led Zepplin, but I think Chad has a far more bitter, cynical sense of humor.
you know, you just might find Huey Lewis and the News mind-blowingly avant garde
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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Jul 17, 2013 - 08:41pm PT
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I just gave myself a hernia laughing.
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ruppell
climber
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Jul 17, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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LMFAO. Nice send. lol
I can't believe no ones done this yet. Here's my favorite Nickleback song. Listen to it. You'll laugh for sure.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 18, 2013 - 01:03am PT
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Ruben!!
Ignore all those downers trying to harsh your mellow!
You are the Doooede!
(great trip-report!)
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skywalker
climber
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Jul 18, 2013 - 01:19am PT
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OMG...F'n hillarious! Great piece of writing! I felt a little like I was reading a passage from RUMDOODLE maybe 2.0?
Brilliant! TFPU!
S...
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Deekaid
climber
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Jul 18, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
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I get the satire, whatever, I just don't think it is funny. Then I didn't think that rumdoodle sh#t was funny either. Moving on.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 18, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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I get the satire, whatever, I just don't think it is funny. Then I didn't think that rumdoodle sh#t was funny either. Moving on.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 18, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
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I invited everyone with a tie on to celebrate my summit.
I must remember to bring a tie on my next trip, I wouldn't want to miss your next celebration!
Many fun times had I reading this TR, Thanks!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jul 18, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
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Funny, funny stuff! Well done, sir!
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Fletcher
Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
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Jul 18, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
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A perfect storm of stand up comedy meeting performance art meeting trolling.
It doesn't get any better than this!
Eric
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jul 18, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
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I've been out having fun and behind on the current taco happenings, but laughed to tears reading this thing! A true masterpiece not just of content, but also of language construction.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Jul 18, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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Add a cabana boy to the staff featuring Yolanda, and the cougars will want to become photo-journalists to document your studly feats!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jul 20, 2013 - 10:02am PT
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Greatest SEND EVER!!!
LMAO, Made my day!!!
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 20, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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Too much, too good!
Susan
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jul 20, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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You make me proud to have been born and raised in El Paso. Thanks for such a great contribution to the tacostand.
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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Jul 20, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
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fun place
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 21, 2013 - 12:48am PT
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I liked that TR!
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jul 26, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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Thank you for inspirational report!!
Hopefully someday I can summit Half-dome without ropes.
Luke
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cornel
climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
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Wow now that is bold! I wonder if that will ever, ever, ever be repeated?!!!! Did I say ever?
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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that was a nice video ß Î Ø T Ç H
...for being off route ; )
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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hah, im pretty sure i stopped reading this early my first time through. too bad too, cause this is pure gold.
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HuecoRat
Trad climber
NJ
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Oh, man! I was in Tuolumne when this went up, so I missed it until now. I can't stop laughing. This is even better than the rope less ascent of the Grand. I'm not sure whether this makes me glad or sad to also be from El Paso. Totally made my day!
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LB4USC
Trad climber
Long Beach
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Stay tuned for my TR:
"INTO THE DEATH ZONE: The Ascent of Mount Dana."
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