Trip Report
Hall of Mirrors weekend 9/27-29, 2014
|
Tuesday October 21, 2014 2:14pm
|
|
I've been wanting to spend some time on Hall of Mirrors for a while, but I couldn't convince any of my friends to join me even though it's the best slab climb in the world (I guess they want to get on Freerider instead, or something), so I decided to do it myself.
The plan was to fly out to Fresno from Boulder, drive up to Glacier Point, rap in from the top, and micro-trax the route while working my way down. I got the inspiration after reading Clint Cummins' trip report on rebolting HoM. Unfortunately, the forecast decayed after I bought my plane tickets, which limited my climbing quite a bit. I still had a fantastic weekend though.
I can't wait to get back on this route. I don't know if I'd ever send the whole thing, but I'd certainly have fun spending time on the route.
Special thanks to Clint Cummins for providing beta and inspiration for this trip, and to all those involved with replacing every single bolt on this amazing route.
AlanDoak
|
|
About the Author
AlanDoak is a climber from Boulder, CO. |
Comments
Matt's
climber
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 02:19pm PT
|
nice!
|
|
kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 02:19pm PT
|
werd
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
|
Solid lil adventure ya had yerself right there. Way to get off the couch and go get rad with no too much to work with. A proud outing for sure. Thanks for the write up and let us know how it goes when you head back to fire it off proper!
Scott
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 02:37pm PT
|
Wow. Way to get after it on your own man!
That takes stoke!
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 03:51pm PT
|
Way cool!
It can be hard to find partners for hard slab, although I recall Mikey Schaefer said he is interested in trying Hall of Mirrors.
I like your "Plan B" - very self sufficient.
It had to be a big adventure getting down to the top with that heavy haul bag.
Too bad the weather cut your time short.
But that p13 looks so amazing - good that you got on it.
p10 looks really cool, too. Next time?
|
|
MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 04:12pm PT
|
Way to get after it! Thanks for the report and pictures.
Big thanks to Clint, as well for anchor replacement.
|
|
Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
|
Sweet!
I love your psych to get on such a big project alone.
Has this thing seen any repeats?
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 04:18pm PT
|
What the f*#k is micro trax?
|
|
StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
|
Wow, getting on HoM solo is a cool idea!
"would not want to be next to Goodrich Pinnacle in a rainstorm"
No sh*t. The late Tom Burke and I rapelled 6 pitches of that thing in a down pour.. It was a life changing experience.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
|
slabomatic is a mania trippy great report
I also loved your photo of the East buttress
that ones cool
|
|
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
|
You have a huge sac!!!!
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
|
Solo stoke!
Way to get way out there.
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 07:34pm PT
|
Nice solo effort. Very cool.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
|
Awesome adventure and attitude to get it done. Hopefully with this report, it'll be easier to find partners next time :). That is, if you still want a partner for it!
|
|
hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
|
dang, such sweet granite!
|
|
bergbryce
climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 09:25pm PT
|
What a cool idea! Way to get after it.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
|
Very nice work and TR - and a great and original way to enjoy that territory solo. Thanks for the TR.
John
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 11:27pm PT
|
slablike!
did you hear any voices coming at you from up canyon? weird dark iron craft is practiced up canyon.
wild adventure
shades of Rohrer stylings
|
|
limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
|
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2014 - 11:49pm PT
|
Awesome to see a unique trip like this! Looks like you made some great memories that definitely make up for the missed climbing. Thanks for sharing!
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2014 - 05:36am PT
|
That is a great adventure! Well done.
|
|
yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
|
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2014 - 07:18am PT
|
All alone on the Hall of Mirrors. Pretty wild!
|
|
Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
|
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2014 - 07:38am PT
|
wow !! awesome TR !
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2014 - 08:03am PT
|
that's one hell of an awesome Plan B!!
|
|
Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
|
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2014 - 08:28am PT
|
Plan B's rarely are knott adventures.
Excellent!
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2014 - 08:37am PT
|
A downhill adventure : )
|
|
AlanDoak
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
|
|
|
Author's Reply
|
Oct 22, 2014 - 11:03am PT
|
Thanks for all the positive comments!
To clarify my self belay setup, I was using 2 unmodified micro-traxions, with stopper knots tied every 30' or so in case both devices somehow locked open. No chest harness. The primary trax was attached snuggly to my harness with 5mm cord, and the secondary trax was trailing on a locking biner.
Reeotch, as far as my research turned up, there's only been 3 ascents: Cantwell/Burke 80, Woodward/Bercaw 10/92, Honnold 10/19/2011. I think it's due to a combination of factors: slab being less popular, pucker factor on the bottom pitches, and fear of rockfall.
I confess, I backed off the 2nd pitch a long time ago. It wasn't just that it was runout (I'm used to that), it was also a different texture and angle from other slabs I had climbed. I had no confidence I wasn't going to fall. My next time on the route will probably involve climbing Goodrich and fixing lines on the top 7 pitches to run laps (Let me know if anyone is game, I'll fly out). I'm not proud, I'll headpoint this route.
As far as rockfall is concerned.... there's rockfall everywhere in the valley. Felix Kiernan died on the East Buttress of El Cap the very next day after my buddy and I climbed it. I think people associate the entire Apron with the big slides over on the right side. There's some blocks at the base of the climb, but no worse than many places we climb. It's part of the sport, and you decide where you're comfortable climbing.
With only 3 ascents (and Honnold not weighing in), there's not a whole lot of consensus on the grade. Plus the shoes make a big difference (TC Pros are amazing, btw). I can't compare it to any other slab I've ever done, it doesn't have the micro flakes/knobs or gritty friction that you find elsewhere. Pitches that were 5.10 felt hard, pitches that were 5.12 felt hard. I TR flashed The Thirteenth, but fell on 5.11. Nothing felt stopper, as opposed to Kauk Slab which shut me down.
Honnold reported being "really scared" and "gripped" on the Steel Wall pitch (11a) where the crux bolt (now replaced) was missing, how hard/insecure does something have to be to scare Alex with an 80' fall? I dunno. I do know that the climbing is really sustained, and it would require a lot of mental and physical stamina to lead this thing.
I wish I had a better idea how much traffic this route gets, but my impression is that it's not a lot. I hope this TR plays some small role in changing that.
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
|
Dig it. Love the style. Flight -> hike -> portaledge -> mini. Beautiful way to pull off a solo trip.
|
|
nopantsben
climber
europe
|
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2014 - 11:16am PT
|
awesome stuff! hasen't had 1000 views yet - i guess no one even know this is in california.. ha ha.
good effort, thanks for posting the pics too :)
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2014 - 11:27am PT
|
Face limb madness! Cheers!
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
|
Funny what you said about the first few pitches, these are the ones I've been on! Really good stuff.
And yeah, hard to find folks stoked to get on the slabs, but what a joy.
Nice TR!
|
|
Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2014 - 02:50pm PT
|
I'd get on this with yah.
|
|
Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
|
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2014 - 03:01pm PT
|
Nice full adventure! Just going down and spending the night on the wall is major! I've heard some stories in the old days of carrying several pairs of shoes on the route and even of using bleach on the soles for the cruxs. Maybe true. You know more than lots of us now and good to see the photos and read about it...........Thanks!!
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
|
May 12, 2016 - 12:17pm PT
|
Missed this. Cool trip!!! I love slabs.
|
|
SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
|
|
|
|
May 12, 2016 - 04:06pm PT
|
Two friends and I got up the first three terrifying pitches years ago. Actually, the Brit got up it, and we fell our way up. We had one pair of shoes that would stick, so we lowered them off at each belay. As I recall, we were visited by a flying Earl Redfern...he grounded right near us. Bounced right up...convinced me to let the Brit lead that's for damn sure.
|
|
|
 |
|
Recent Trip Reports
- The Kohala Ditch Trail: 36ish hrs on foot... to and from the headwaters. [5 of 5]
May 31, 2019; 11:57pm
- A Winter Traverse of the California section of the PCT Part 8
May 31, 2019; 11:18pm
- Supertopo,A trip report for posterity
May 31, 2019; 11:00pm
- Balch Fest 2013. Two Days in and Around and On The Flake. The Official Trip Report
May 31, 2019; 10:57pm
- TR: My visit to the Canoe
May 31, 2019; 10:24pm
- Death, Alpine Climbing, The Shield on El Cap
May 31, 2019; 4:07pm
- Andy Nisbet (1953-2019)
May 31, 2019; 2:11pm
- Drama on Baboquivari Peak
May 31, 2019; 1:19pm
- Joffre + The Aemmer Couloir: ski descents come unexpected catharsis [part 2]
May 31, 2019; 7:45am
- Lost To The Sea, by Disaster Master
May 30, 2019; 5:36am
- My Up And Down Life, Disaster Master
May 29, 2019; 11:44pm
- Halibut Hats and Climbers-What Gives?
May 29, 2019; 7:24pm
- G Rubberfat Overhang-First Ascent 1961
May 29, 2019; 12:28pm
- Coonyard Pinnacle 50 Years Later
May 29, 2019; 12:24pm
- Great Pumpkin with Mr Kamps and McClinsky- 1971
May 29, 2019; 12:02pm
- View more trip reports >
|
