Trip Report
Hawkman's Escape with Anthony 2014-10-11, EXIF style
|
Wednesday May 18, 2016 1:17pm
|
|
Clint Cummins
|
|
About the Author
Clint Cummins is a trad climber and rap rebolter from SF Bay area, CA. |
Comments
NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
|
|
|
|
May 18, 2016 - 01:27pm PT
|
Awesome! Are the rap stations with cut rope still solid?
Remember now, be respectful and no comments like "oh we cruised that section"
Did you do the Peter Hahn variation near the top? I don't remember any overhanging stemming bits near the end, but then again I don't remember anything after that ledge a few pitches from the top.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Author's Reply
|
May 18, 2016 - 01:36pm PT
|
Rap stations were good - glad you found a good use for the cut rope.
The overhanging stem to flaring hand crack is p6 (the second 5.9 pitch), which reaches that traverse ledge.
We did not do the Haan-Ward 5.11a finish - hey it was dark and we were plenty challenged. :-)
|
|
Coach37
Social climber
|
|
|
|
May 18, 2016 - 01:49pm PT
|
The picture "starting p6" at 15:07, it looks like you are mid-whipper! Then the next pic gives away the true situation. Nice one.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
|
|
|
|
May 18, 2016 - 01:56pm PT
|
Ahhh... now I recognize that stemming bit. Moving the belay higher in the chimney makes for nicer pics!
But we have to talk about the volley ball pads. Totally 5.9 C0 now.
|
|
Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
|
|
|
|
May 18, 2016 - 02:04pm PT
|
Yo Gang! Lower Brother week on ST! Woot!
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
|
May 18, 2016 - 02:05pm PT
|
Nice! I remember when the topo of Hawkman's Escape first showed up in the community version of Pratt's notebook, with the notation "Do this route!" I also remember it being rated 5.8, which I suspected to be a sandbag.
My memories of going down Michael's Ledge after a hot, dusty trip up the Lower Brother SW Arete years before were so unpleasant, however, that the thought of heading that way again suppressed further interest. Well, that and watching a refrigerator-sized block skip between my partner and me on the A4 traverse on Koko Continuation. Now that I'm looking at the plethora of rather attractive trip reports, I have to reconsider.
Thanks for great report and pictures.
John
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Author's Reply
|
May 18, 2016 - 02:22pm PT
|
But we have to talk about the volley ball pads. Totally 5.9 C0 now. Haha. I'm a firm believer in kneepads. You use climbing shoes, right? :-)
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
|
May 18, 2016 - 02:53pm PT
|
Great stuff, as we get older we get wiser,
and no amount of style points matter.
Save the Knees from knocking and grinding.
getting used to climbing in kneepads takes some time, but there is no going back.
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
|
|
|
|
May 18, 2016 - 02:57pm PT
|
w00t!!!!
|
|
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
|
|
|
|
May 18, 2016 - 04:09pm PT
|
Stoke the GNAR
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
|
May 19, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
|
Clint both times I lead this pitch I kept right, simply because it was less steep. It was hard and awkward on the right! Would you say staying left kept it at 5.9? I thought climbing the wide part on the right was mighty stiff for 5.9, but I wasn't climbing much 5.10 back then so couldn't be sure...
Did you find the rock as iffy on p2 as we did? I would have been nervous there to pull on gear because it seemed so poor!
Great pics, thanks for sharing. Must have felt good to open that car door at 2 a.m.
Edit: Would have been hard to see in the dark at 2 a.m., but Scott and I noticed this splitter on Lower Bro's west face during our walk down after the raps the next morning. Looked really good - never gone back to it. Looked too clean and splitter to have never been climbed. Not sure how long it was.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Author's Reply
|
May 19, 2016 - 10:35pm PT
|
le_bruce,
Clint both times I lead this pitch I kept right, simply because it was less steep. It was hard and awkward on the right! Would you say staying left kept it at 5.9? I thought climbing the wide part on the right was mighty stiff for 5.9, but I wasn't climbing much 5.10 back then so couldn't be sure... Yeah, I thought it was 5.9 on the left.
I'm very weak on ow, so the crack on the right looked not climbable for me.
Did you find the rock as iffy on p2 as we did? I would have been nervous there to pull on gear because it seemed so poor! Starting the pitch, sure the holds and gear looked breakable.
Higher up at the finger crack was where I couldn't commit to doing one move and pulled. The gear was good there, and slightly in the way.
I'm glad you liked the pics!
The splitter in your photo looks nice, but maybe a bit short for the long approach involved? 20'? Perhaps that explains why you haven't been back to it.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
|
|
|
|
May 19, 2016 - 07:44pm PT
|
Link up that thing with Split Pillar :)
Per my recollection, that traverse left from the top of the wide crack into the backless chimney was the technically hardest part of the climbing on the route (a face move or two?). First time I fell following, second time I was happy to get it clean. Both times I was happy Bryce led it.
|
|
Marshall
climber
bay area
|
|
|
|
May 19, 2016 - 09:04pm PT
|
Nice Clint!
|
|
Powder
Trad climber
the Box
|
|
|
|
May 20, 2016 - 08:52am PT
|
What a fun adventure!! Thanks for sharing!!
Love all the pictures...( especially ones with the kneepads. Haha Those are awesome!) They make a great story. : D That's something I need to learn to do better - taking more photos on a climb!
|
|
anthony.
Social climber
|
|
|
|
May 20, 2016 - 02:37pm PT
|
Ha Clint, thanks for bringing back some good memories! That was indeed a LONG day.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
|
May 20, 2016 - 02:57pm PT
|
More TRs about this climb this year than the Nose! haha Thanks for sharing!
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
|
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2016 - 07:28pm PT
|
The legacy lives on. More glorious remembrances.
|
|
Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
|
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2016 - 07:38am PT
|
I'm a little late coming to this comment party, but what wonderful photos and comments. Looks like a great climb. I might have to try the kneepad thing, as mine are getting crabby. Very much thanks for this TR!
|
|
PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
|
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2016 - 08:39am PT
|
Thanks for the trip report.
Love the excellent photos!
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
|
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2016 - 10:41am PT
|
Is that THE hawkman himself?
|
|
|
 |
|
Recent Trip Reports
- The Kohala Ditch Trail: 36ish hrs on foot... to and from the headwaters. [5 of 5]
May 31, 2019; 11:57pm
- A Winter Traverse of the California section of the PCT Part 8
May 31, 2019; 11:18pm
- Supertopo,A trip report for posterity
May 31, 2019; 11:00pm
- Balch Fest 2013. Two Days in and Around and On The Flake. The Official Trip Report
May 31, 2019; 10:57pm
- TR: My visit to the Canoe
May 31, 2019; 10:24pm
- Death, Alpine Climbing, The Shield on El Cap
May 31, 2019; 4:07pm
- Andy Nisbet (1953-2019)
May 31, 2019; 2:11pm
- Drama on Baboquivari Peak
May 31, 2019; 1:19pm
- Joffre + The Aemmer Couloir: ski descents come unexpected catharsis [part 2]
May 31, 2019; 7:45am
- Lost To The Sea, by Disaster Master
May 30, 2019; 5:36am
- My Up And Down Life, Disaster Master
May 29, 2019; 11:44pm
- Halibut Hats and Climbers-What Gives?
May 29, 2019; 7:24pm
- G Rubberfat Overhang-First Ascent 1961
May 29, 2019; 12:28pm
- Coonyard Pinnacle 50 Years Later
May 29, 2019; 12:24pm
- Great Pumpkin with Mr Kamps and McClinsky- 1971
May 29, 2019; 12:02pm
- View more trip reports >
|
