Trip Report
Ice Silo Climbing
Saturday February 27, 2010 10:30pm
Deep in the Iowa interior people of all walks of life are drawn to it.
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Credit: Bill Mc Kirgan
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Neighbors who’ve seen all the activity, folks from the city who’ve seen it on the local news...
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College students volunteer time making and maintaining it, and still others have discovered it on the internet or heard about it from others quite by coincidence.
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They see it off in the distance looming over the Iowa prairie, a solitary silo with a white fang of ice.
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And they seem to know...
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It must be climbed!!!!
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The Iowa Ice Silo climbing phenomena started early this century when Don Briggs, an instructor at the University of Northern Iowa's Physical Education and Leisure Services, was helping a good friend till his farmland. An avid rock and ice climber, he couldn't help but think of the possibilities of climbing, or better yet, icing down the giant silos as he drove by them on the tractor. Don didn't just jerry-rig a sketchy system for icing and then climbing. He made a science and an art out of creating a beautiful column of ice, and a system safe enough for the paying public to enjoy.

Oh, there's a waiver to sign, and a fee to pay for warming shed privileges. Here, below is a picture with said warming shed in the background.
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You don't have to know anything about climbing, or have any gear. In the warming shed you get fitted with crampons, harness, helmet, safety glasses. Children are even permitted to climb; however, I did not see any climbing on the day I visited:

Free puppies???
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It was a beautiful clear late winter day. Not much wind, and just enough warmth to keep people from staying indoors. These photos were taken early in the day when things were just getting started.
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Credit: Bill Mc Kirgan
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Having never climbed on ice before I cannot judge the quality of the ice, or features, but I can say things held together, and it was quite easy to find little holes to hook tools into. There were also plenty of ledges to step on, so kicking was not always needed; however, every route was nearly vertical, and in many places it was overhanging. It was exhausting!!!! But there was something special at the top of each route. In addition to the spectacular view of the Iowa prairie the top of each route was equipped with...







A cowbell !!!!1111...and I don't mean hexes.
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The belayers are attentive and shout encouragement to each client / guest. The experienced ice climbers can also belay each other thereby giving the staff a welcome rest to relive that belayer's neck strain. Unfortunately there were no massage therapists on site.
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I had to ask about the lines running above the climbing routes. You can see these in the picture, below, where the lines run at an angle to the right above the climbers. These lines are used to haul up the garden hoses for overnight sprinkling to refresh the ice column. Didn't I say Don Briggs made a science out of this?
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I couldn't stay for the night climbing by moonlight...they'll be at it 'til midnight tonight and every weekend until the Iowa spring brings it all crashing down in a heap. I asked about determination of the final call on climbing and was told that they start worrying about it when daytime temperatures get into the 40s F and the overnight temperatures are above 26F (the overnight sprinklings don't work above this temperature).
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I doubt it will last much longer, but I do plan to go back next year.

  Trip Report Views: 4,803
Bill Mc Kirgan
About the Author
Bill McKirgan is a climber from Cedar Rapids, Iowa.

Comments
Jingy

climber
Random Nobody
  Feb 27, 2010 - 11:05pm PT
Wow!!!!

This was pretty cool



I saw something about ice climbing, and thought I'd see some proud waterfall climbing or something...

opened the link and was disappointed by the first photo.. ("what's this.. flat land ice climbing?")


then the turn onto the driveway and the first view of the silo.. then it clicked...

Very cool, very imaginative use of the silo....

I live in the central valley of California, and drive by these huge silos on the way to/from work, and used to salivate thinking of ways that I'd have trespass onto the property in order to drill holes into and place holds on the big silos.


Never done anything about it.. too much trouble...


Good stuff
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Feb 27, 2010 - 11:18pm PT
Works for me. A silo is great practice.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Feb 28, 2010 - 12:17am PT
Looks pretty fun. Thanks for posting.
Bill Mc Kirgan

Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Author's Reply  Feb 28, 2010 - 10:12am PT
Glad this is well-received. I've been reading about this since 2007 and have been thinking about giving a try all winter this year. We're just a few weeks away from the ice column collapsing and I decided to give it a try. This was my very first experience with ice climbing, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. The people running the show were great, and were diligent about keeping people safe, and helping non-climbers gain confidence in the top rope system they setup.

I made 4 clean ascents out of 6 attempts between 10 am and 2 pm. On my sixth attempt my forearms were like limp noodles and I lost my grip on the ice axe and fell with the axe planted in the ice. After retrieving it I asked to be lowered off and quit for the day.

It would have been nice to stay until nightfall and at least watch the other ice monkeys. The sky was clear last night so they must have had ideal full-moon light for climbing. I understand they put up some work lights and that it can be seen for miles.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Feb 28, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
glorious!
Bill Mc Kirgan

Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Author's Reply  Mar 1, 2010 - 12:50am PT
Glad you're all enjoying this...after a quick search I started finding short videos done at various times.


Here's a YouTube link to a story about the ice silo climbing at its previous location where there were 3 or 4 silos iced down for fun.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dMFTNpZpS4

And another link to a video of the ice silo climbing at its current location...this is a very nice production

http://vimeo.com/8568332

The dog's name is Wilson, and he's in charge of everything.

Here's another YouTube that features night climbing and plenty of cowbell

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2dELG8-x8U
Bill Mc Kirgan

Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Author's Reply  Jan 22, 2011 - 08:37am PT
Say now,

Here's a link to a recent 'Iowa Outdoors' feature on the Ice Silo....

http://www.iptv.org/video/detail.cfm/13080/iao_20101216_101_siloiceclimbing


I'm hoping to get out there sometime in the next few weeks, and make a new report.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Jan 22, 2011 - 08:43am PT
Bill, That seriously kicks ass. I've been hoping someone would do this for years. Now I just need one to be a bit closer.....
eric peterson

Big Wall climber
big blue truck
  Jan 26, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
i live in Illinois and i have a 50 ft silo bolted for holds and hangers for leading , lots of good times and kids love it , next winter the bigger silo is getting the freeze for ice!!
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Jan 26, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
Amazing how featured the ice is -- there's the art!

Dingus, you're right! And being you, it pretty likely you are well aware of the Iowa Mountaineers, whose routes were all over the Wind Rivers in the 1950s.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jan 26, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
Doug, I also think the Iowa mounteneers did a lot in the Big Horns in WY on things like Black Tooth and Cloud peak. There are probably a lot of untouched walls in there from 10,000-13,000 feet but as I understand they touched a lot of them.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jan 26, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
This is pretty cool!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jan 27, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
Wow, that is "cool".

You can find climbing damn near anywhere...... can't ya?
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jan 27, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
dab for sure!

TFPU!

bergbryce

climber
East Bay, CA
  Feb 1, 2011 - 01:45am PT
This is pretty cool. Way to make the most of a flat situation.
thetennisguy

Mountain climber
Yuba City, CA
  Feb 7, 2011 - 01:43pm PT
Thanks! I saw something like this ... it may have been the same place in a BSA Scouter Magazine last year. It would be a great place to take Scouts / Venturers.

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