Trip Report
Irish Nautical Activity
Wednesday September 28, 2016 7:57am
And Sho, after two years of cunning plans being foiled by the combined forces of the mighty Neptune and Gaia it came to pass.
Dún Briste sea stack off Downpatrick Head in Co Mayo in the west coast of Ireland became a stack in 1300's, got its summit landed on by helicopter in 1980 and got its first ascent in 1990. This stack has been on the todo list for almost a decade but only really started laughing at me in the last two years.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

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The definition of foolishness captured in a single frame.
The definition of foolishness captured in a single frame.
Credit: Donegal Sea Stacks
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After three previous attempts over the last two years the planets aligned and we set sail and paddled out to its base on 27th August 2016. Paulina Kaniszewska was the willing cohort for the cunning plan. With the Inflatable dingy as the prefered weapon of choice for nautical access and the crossing.
Landed on the huge platforms at the base of the west face. Alas this roof covered wall is horribly over hanging with huge roofs of Damocles everywhere above us.

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launching the mighty vessel
launching the mighty vessel
Credit: Donegal Sea Stacks
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The Sea Passage
The Sea Passage
Credit: Donegal Sea Stacks
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We followed the original and only route from the seaward edge of the west face until stopped by a horrorshow of a greasy overhang. A swift thuggy hand traverse over the void and we arrived unto a huge ledge. Alas I opted for an easier looking new 2nd pitch but off course this turned out to be perhaps the most foolish of our already foolish actions todate. This pitch involved an ever increasing death drop through an 8 metre run out up the grime covered bulges to a recess below the summit. A boulder choked chimney led from here to the summit.

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landing on the sea stack
landing on the sea stack
Credit: Donegal Sea Stacks
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Top of pitch 1
Top of pitch 1
Credit: Donegal Sea Stacks
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Pitch 2
Pitch 2
Credit: Donegal Sea Stacks
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The summit was surreal place to be as the foundations of the medieval settlement are still in place. The stack had people living on it when it parted company with mainland Ireland in the 1300's. Seven people have been on the summit in 700 years and the previous occupants of the houses Quern Stone and their ancient sheep gate. (the sheep gate allows sheep through but not cattle and dates back to biblical time)
Anyways it was a wild place to be standing in the pouring ran with no rappel anchors in near reach and Paulina at the top of first pitch unable to climb the now river of a second pitch. Built an anchor round a grassy hummock and returned to Paulina absolutely terrified. After a bit of a sit down we began the return to the boat and from here it involved lowering Paulina into the sea for a swim and myself freesoloing the first pitch in descent. Which took us back to the mighty vessel and the paddle back to the carpark.

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Standing on the summit
Standing on the summit
Credit: Donegal Sea Stacks
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Ive put more details in the below blog post, with more details of the logistics and gear used, which will interest pretty much no-one but me.

http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sp/article_manager/detail/downpatrick_head_sea_stack_climb

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Standing on the sea stack summit
Standing on the sea stack summit
Credit: Donegal Sea Stacks
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  Trip Report Views: 1,755
Donegal Sea Stacks
About the Author
Donegal Sea Stacks is a trad climber from Donegal, Ireland.

Comments
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Sep 28, 2016 - 08:05am PT
A heart warming tale to be sure! Tis lovely that your matron allows you out for some fresh air! ;-)
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Sep 28, 2016 - 09:17am PT
This is a mind-blowing TR. So damn interesting and ignites the imagination.

even people have been on the summit in 700 years and the previous occupants of the houses Quern Stone and their ancient sheep gate. (the sheep gate allows sheep through but not cattle and dates back to biblical time)

That's just incredibly neat.

If ever I make it to Ireland will you two please take me on something like this? And drop a line if you come to California. Can't promise a swim in the north sea or raps from a grass mound, but plenty of sun-warmed granite and long cracks.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Sep 28, 2016 - 09:25am PT
Watched the video, just basically mesmerized by this whole go. Thank you again for sharing.

Good form on that most classic of top-out moves, immediately throwing yourself to the ground on your back and staring up at the gods. I do the same thing on any summit.

Edit: the palate of colors is so badass in your part of the world. That is the ocean's best color.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Sep 28, 2016 - 09:34am PT

An epic ascent and crawl of biblical proportions followed by an equal descent and swim. This is real adventure only possible in Ireland...
TFPU!
i-b-goB

Big Wall climber
Nutty
  Sep 28, 2016 - 10:18am PT
"Built an anchor round a grassy hummock"
I bet you were ready for a crapper!
hamersorethumb

Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
  Sep 28, 2016 - 11:01am PT
Love it, thanks so much for sharing.
Al Barkamps

Social climber
Red Stick
  Sep 28, 2016 - 11:08am PT
You should be hung from your nut-sac for ever bringing a lady on such a crapfest! Bet it made for a good story at the pub....
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Sep 28, 2016 - 11:17am PT
Really enjoyed this one, thanks-lars
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
  Sep 28, 2016 - 11:38am PT
Nice to see a TR from my homeland! The ancient history on the top is amazing.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Sep 28, 2016 - 11:41am PT
Wow! Thank you for the TR.

John
newport

Sport climber
UK
  Sep 28, 2016 - 12:16pm PT
A great trip report! The scottish sea stacks get a bit of publicity, but I had never heard of these Irish ones. I've been running guided trips to sea stacks in Scotland for the last few years, and there is definitely something about gaining a summit compared to just climbing a route, however good- the British equivalent of a desert tower.
A couple more of interest- the first one looks a bit similar to the Irish stack:
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
  Sep 28, 2016 - 12:49pm PT
Thanks for posting this very exciting and parts of the video are definitely nightmare-inducing.

Though I know that this is gruesomely voyeuristic, I am interested to know more of the circumstances relating to the 'separation' of the stack from the mainland in 1300. Are there any surviving accounts? Did those living there have sufficient warning to get off before the collapse? If they didn't then their fate is truely heart-wrenching.
snakefoot

climber
Nor Cal
  Sep 28, 2016 - 12:51pm PT
Damn, that looks like fun CHOSS! thanks
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