Iron Hawk A4 5.10

Currently 4.0/5

El Capitan

Yosemite Valley, California USA

Trip Report

Iron Hawk - Solo*

Monday July 30, 2012 11:57pm


	Credit: Mark Hudon

*Almost.

My trip reports can now be found at ElCapPanos.com

Trip Report Views: 21,638

Mark Hudon

About the Author
Mark Hudon is a climber from Hood River, OR.

Comments

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Jul 31, 2012 - 12:26am PT

^^ Dean - there is something just inherently wrong about how you like to get up so early all the time.

Mark:

Wow! I guess it has to be a good sign when after working on this thing for so long, that when I saw it posted for the first time with the photos, I laughed out loud at the beginning!

It really comes to life with the photos, buddy. Superb job.

ms55401

Trad climber

minneapolis, mn

Jul 31, 2012 - 12:35am PT

Mark, great TR, perhaps your best yet. Sometimes a magnificent defeat is far prouder than token victory.

As for the safeness of jugging on a traverse: I assume you are tied into the rope (below the jumars, out of view).

Nate101

Trad climber

Aliso Viejo, CA

Jul 31, 2012 - 12:53am PT

Great job Mark! I really enjoyed following your climb in real time. Bad Ass!

Nate

shipoopoi

Big Wall climber

oakland

Jul 31, 2012 - 01:03am PT

wow, from somebody who wears glasses, that has felt the hurt and pain of soloing a hard el cap route near the age of 50, that has to be the greatest tr of all freaking time. i'll bring extra glasses, stacks of advil and other pain relievers, and 2 gri-gris on my next big solo, if i ever do that again. cheers to you mark for pushing towards your limits, steve

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

ne'er–do–well

Jul 31, 2012 - 01:14am PT

Has the feel of one of those TVWOY write-ups. Bookworthy stuff for sure.

climbski2

Mountain climber

The Ocean

Jul 31, 2012 - 01:52am PT

Death by 1000 cuts.. no not exactly.

Some times everything adds up and errors accumulate..ending in something much worse than calling friends to lend a hand. Nice decision.
Too many are no longer with us. Really glad you are.

For those of us that have been waiting to read this TR, man does it deliver!! More than I can digest in one reading. So much great info built into a gripping narrative!

WOW

Captain...or Skully

climber

Boise, ID

Jul 31, 2012 - 01:29am PT

I can dig it. Pete, yer a Lazy boy. The A of M are The Golden Times. Craggy is Wise.
I bet Mark gets up early, most days. Or what, eh?
Oh, BTW, LUV Yer Shades. Or, er...Shade.
;-)

Skot433

Big Wall climber

Lakewood, CA

Jul 31, 2012 - 01:30am PT

my hero...

Im in awe...

You are the man Mark, the definition of my aspirations

Studly

Trad climber

Jul 31, 2012 - 02:26am PT

What a TR~ Keep firing it up Mark!
but I think Theodore Roosevelt said it best.
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checked with failure...than to take rank with those poor souls who neither risk much nor loose much, because they live in that gray twilight that knows not victory nor defeat."

bergbryce

climber

East Bay, CA

Jul 31, 2012 - 02:00am PT

Cool man. Always enjoy your placement pics.
A fine TR and props for realizing and accepting your situation.

skywalker

climber

Jul 31, 2012 - 02:28am PT

Thanks, I will return. I think of a friend that runs 100 mile races.

It sounds emotional.

Inspires me.

Thanks!

S...

Captain...or Skully

climber

Boise, ID

Jul 31, 2012 - 02:33am PT

Inspiration is a Grand Thing, huh?

PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber

Central Valley, CA

Jul 31, 2012 - 02:49am PT

WOW!! Well done my friend! Truly inspiring!

Cole

Trad climber

los angeles

Jul 31, 2012 - 02:50am PT

Holy sh#t man that was intense! Fabulous TR and great inspiration.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Jul 31, 2012 - 07:50am PT

you bunch of mountain freaks
are good company.

it takes a man of courage
to voluntarily seek his physical and mental thresholds.

bravo, mark.
it's good to know you.

telemon01

Trad climber

Montana

Jul 31, 2012 - 07:56am PT

As usual, inspiring and impressive. Thanks for all of it!.

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Jul 31, 2012 - 09:13am PT

Wow. That's a helluva well told, not to mention instructional, TR!

RP3

Big Wall climber

Newbury Park

Jul 31, 2012 - 09:27am PT

Spectacular read Mark! You need to start publishing these things in a coffee table book or something!

Cheers!
-Roger

Rankin

Social climber

Winston-Salem, North Carolina

Jul 31, 2012 - 10:18am PT

Right up to the edge. Awesome job Mark!

BASE1361

climber

Yosemite Valley National Park

Jul 31, 2012 - 10:25am PT

Holy Sphincterballs!!!!

Well done Mark. Inspirational to the end.

You give a very raw and genuine account of an amazing experience. Thank you for sharing.

micronut

Trad climber

Fresno/Clovis, ca

Jul 31, 2012 - 11:00am PT

And the Supertopo TR Lifetime Achievement Award goes to.......

I'm thinking about writing a Trip Report about reading your Trip Report. Reading this thing is an emotional ride man. You have done yourself, your journey, the climbing community, the route and the Captain proud with this one. Great writing, photos so crip you can feel the exposure and an openness about your experience. An "editor's" dream.

Thank you for all you do for this "sport."

I love this photo by the way.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Jul 31, 2012 - 11:14am PT

An "editor's" dream.

Funny you should mention that. After working on this thing for so long, I actually had a dream last night I was up climbing on some mountain with Mark. It was cold and snowy, however. Definitely more of a nightmare for the likes of me, the Penguin Who Hates the Cold.

The ability to inspire is a gift, but it takes a ton of work, too. Thanks for putting in the huge effort this trip report had to require, Mark.

Darwin

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Jul 31, 2012 - 11:16am PT

Thanks for the gripping TR Mark!

NA_Kid

Big Wall climber

The Bear State

Jul 31, 2012 - 11:51am PT

Great report Mark! Does your topo reflect the grades YOU thought the climb was? Or are those the rating from the supertopo?

mooser

Trad climber

seattle

Jul 31, 2012 - 12:06pm PT

Fantastic TR, Mark! That was a truly gripping read, and your writing is most excellent. My guess is that most of us would want to have the bragging rights about having done all but the last two pitches, rather than lament that we were too spent to do them. Really impressive climb, and thanks for bringing us along!

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

On the road.

Author's Reply

Jul 31, 2012 - 12:27pm PT

Thank you for all your kind comments!

Jordan, those are the ST Guide ratings. I have no idea what the aid rating system is doing these days.
Tribal Rite, the South Seas, ZM, Iron Hawk and Native Son are all rated A4 but are all vastly different. It's a rating system that is truely broken and worthless.
I'd rate Iron Hawk A3+. I haven't done it but Native Son would stay at A4 and the other routes I mentioned would be C3f. Shortest Straw would be A3+. That would align the ratings back to the old school ratings I learned in the 70s.

10b4me

Social climber

Lida Junction

Jul 31, 2012 - 12:24pm PT

Excellent as always

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Jul 31, 2012 - 12:42pm PT

Hard to say what the real rating is, as it's been so long since I did it. But what makes Iron Hawk a big step upwards from anything Mark had climbed before is two things - its traversing/overhanging nature, and its length.

I think Mark did a great job of self-analysis and retrospection. In reading it, I saw a few things he could have improved upon, and he and I have spoken of this.

I think he really needs to bounce-test better - harder, and more consistently. Trust nothing. You can get away with this on popular routes that see several ascents per year if not per season, because someone has probably tested the fixed gear/mank ahead of you recently. I don't recall the last time I saw Iron Hawk climbed, let alone soloed. Proper bounce-testing would have cut his number of falls in half, I'm guessing, based on what he has described so well above.

You need to bring a nailing mentality to a nailing route. With a name like "Iron Hawk" there could be a clue there. Don't be afraid to use your iron. Big peckers will especially bring down the rating of an aid pitch. You really need to know when to say when. Sure, you should climb as clean as possible whenever reasonably possible, but there comes a time where the consequences of a fall are more severe. Know when to nail, and do it. Know when to climb clean, and do it. Know the difference, and don't be afraid to nail when you have to. I would personally not risk a fall on a hard route by trying to climb it too cleanly.

I also think Mark burned himself out a lot more than he realized at the time by doing his 'public service' of replacing bolts. It's one thing to replace a single bolt when you need to, it's another to do two or more at a single belay. Bolt removal and drilling is HARD work - it trashes your hands. Ultimately, it was Mark's hands which failed, although certainly it was a synergistic effect of these concerns and others he has spoken of. It was awesome that Mark replaced so many bolts, and future parties ought to thank him. Unfortunately, there was a significant cost involved to him.

The solo tag rack is a benefit and a drawback - it's not for everyone, but I really like it. But it's dangerous and complicated. I'm not sure if Mark was plagued by bad luck in this department, or if he just wasn't careful enough each time setting up the tag rack. If you're really lucky, you can solo a wall and not bugger up any tags, but it usually happens to you at least once.

Another reason this is a great trip report is because you can learn a lot of stuff from it!

david r

Social climber

Seattle now NY then

Jul 31, 2012 - 12:46pm PT

Not only one of the best trip reports, but one of the best articles about a wall ever.
Thanks for the inspiration and the brutal honesty Mark.

Plaidman

Trad climber

West Slope of Powell Butte, Portland, Oregon, USA

Jul 31, 2012 - 12:48pm PT

Nice job Mark! Great TR with lots of details about how to overcome "the problems" when aid climbing. The details are like gold. How to stay out of getting cluster f*cked when aid climbing is the biggest trick. Learning what not to do is almost as important as learning what do to do. Thanks for not holding back and sharing all the gory details. These details are not small or meritless to this aspiring big wall climber.

Double D

climber

Jul 31, 2012 - 12:56pm PT

Epic story Mark, thanks for the TR.

Don Paul

Social climber

Washington DC

Jul 31, 2012 - 01:04pm PT

A great story but ... I have no desire to do this route. Hidden in it is the detail that you took 4 or 5 pretty good falls. Including one upside down fall, and those are scary. Not easy to mentally recover. I also wonder if you were hypothermic after the storm, wearing all your clothes and still feeling cold. Not a good sign. Finally, I also wonder what the psychological effect is of having that runout pitch as the last one, it seems like torture, since it is only that one short pitch between you and the top. If it were lower down on the route, it might not have seemed so imposing.

chappy

Social climber

oakhurst

Jul 31, 2012 - 01:24pm PT

Mark,
Great story and a great effort. I was supposed to get out the door right away today and get some projects done but your journey had me mesmerized. I just couldn't leave without knowing how it ended. Take a rest! Now to my projects...
Chappy

wayne burleson

climber

Amherst, MA

Aug 1, 2012 - 09:26am PT

Great report and climb! as we have come to expect from Mr. Hudon. I always wondered what 5.9r high on ElCap by the likes of Bard/Kauk might be like... I think we learned how fatigue, injury and just being alone can so completely change the game. And it is a good heads-up to others about this next level of El Cap routes, even though put up long ago. It seems like the traversing nature of the route made it a particularly hard solo. The video was perfectly placed in the story. Although I've seen Mr H. on video before, it was good to see and hear you. I'll be thinking about this TR for many days to come...

David D.

Trad climber

California

Jul 31, 2012 - 02:19pm PT

Mark, this TR is phenomenal, and it's all because of your willingness to open yourself up and put it all out there: your planning, your passion, your mistakes, your failures, your anguish and heartbreak at the end. Thanks for dreaming big and taking us along with you.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Jul 31, 2012 - 03:02pm PT

This is a beautiful TR. One of the best I have ever read.

It is a great to see someone go so hard that they literally do not have anything left in the tank. A lot of respect to you, and thank you for posting your experience.

That picture with a wall flower and a hook is beautiful too.

micronut

Trad climber

Fresno/Clovis, ca

Jul 31, 2012 - 03:30pm PT

QUESTION:
What is that green moco stuff on the hook?

a. A nasal discharge (snot rocket) from a unilateral sinus infection.

b. Alien slime

c. Spinach residue from a MountainHouse wall dinner, yacked up durin a sketchy pitch.

d. Apple flavored GU. 120 calories right there son. Eat that stuff!

e. A bit of Mark's mojo, spilled from one of his numerous falls.

BASE1361

climber

Yosemite Valley National Park

Jul 31, 2012 - 03:33pm PT

I just noticed this little nugget:

The first photo really captures the story your about to read......

Morgan

Trad climber

East Coast

Jul 31, 2012 - 03:51pm PT

Bravo!

briham89

Big Wall climber

santa cruz, ca

Jul 31, 2012 - 03:54pm PT

Freakin' sweet

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

On the road.

Author's Reply

Jul 31, 2012 - 04:02pm PT

Yellow epoxie to mark my gear.

Regan

Big Wall climber

Poland/Scotland

Jul 31, 2012 - 04:18pm PT

Great TR. Very honest and authentic...
You showed your character and style by coming back on El Cap. Congrats, Mark.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Jul 31, 2012 - 04:19pm PT

mark,
how did you carry the slack end of your lead
line, upstream of the silent partner?

Magic Ed

Trad climber

Nuevo Leon, Mexico

Jul 31, 2012 - 04:34pm PT

Mark, perhaps it's time to come clip bolts in the Potrero Chico with the rest of us old-timers. Imagine climbing big walls (not quite El Cap big but still big)with a single rope and a dozen draws!

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Jul 31, 2012 - 04:36pm PT

Wow! I feel like every trip report I've read this month has been outstanding, but this one tops them all. It was well worth the wait. Thank you for your willingness to share so much of yourself and your experience.

John

slodog

Trad climber

ontario canada

Jul 31, 2012 - 04:36pm PT

totally amazing trip report-lots of lessons here -tagging traverses seems problamatic-great stuff Mark-you are definatly badass

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Jul 31, 2012 - 04:44pm PT

Epic!
Well done.
Wow.

S.Leeper

Social climber

somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'

Jul 31, 2012 - 05:18pm PT

oh my god what a great and heartfelt TR! You expressed feelings so many of us have felt before(except for the EL Cap part for me.)

elcap-pics

Big Wall climber

Crestline CA

Jul 31, 2012 - 05:42pm PT

I'm with all you guys on this one.... great report and climb too! I watched the entire climb and was getting a little worried when the pitch count sunk to one a day higher up. I figured Mark was in deep sh#t after the storm and was really pleased to hear from Cheyne that he and Alik were going up to help Mark off. Now that was a great call Mark! There is a lot to be said for placing your life above your passions! We have lost many a good climber who did the opposite.
Anyway thanks for the great report Mark and to you too Pete for the editing, never an easy task when done properly!!!!

Gagner

climber

Boulder

Jul 31, 2012 - 06:52pm PT

Sweet TR Mark. Your story telling and honesty about how you were feeling is refreshing. Good decision too.

WOOT!!

Paul

John Mac

Trad climber

Breckenridge, CO

Jul 31, 2012 - 07:15pm PT

It's an emotional roller coaster just reading this great TR, let alone doing the actual work. Great job Mark, your truly an inspiration.

BrassNuts

Trad climber

Save your a_s, reach for the brass...

Jul 31, 2012 - 07:26pm PT

Great TR! Real, raw, honest and gripping. Great job - monster effort!

JSpencerV

Trad climber

Santa Monica, CA

Jul 31, 2012 - 10:32pm PT

You are an inspiration man. So vivid, so honest - you put it all out there.

guido

Trad climber

Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific

Jul 31, 2012 - 11:20pm PT

Thanks Mark, for digging deep and opening up the internal workings of a most awesome guy. Proud to have met you and shared this tale. Dam, you are human after all.

Vegasclimber

Trad climber

Las Vegas, NV.

Aug 1, 2012 - 01:50am PT

By far the best TR I have read...I had to read it again, just to make sure I hadn't missed anything as my eyes skated from fall to fall.

Your reports are always an inspiration to me, and this one is no different. Thank you for so blatantly showing us your true core. I can honestly say that I would have packed it in long before you did..which shows me how far I still have to go in my glacially slow pace of trying to learn aid and the systems to attempt my own big wall adventures.

You inspire many, and regardless of what happened on this trip, you are still Mark Hudon and you are still badass. Keep climbing man.

roy

Social climber

NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich

Aug 1, 2012 - 03:26am PT

A really great trip report Mark. An amazing climb too, going right to you limits.

Cheers, Roy

ulybaZZa

Trad climber

Bonn, Germany

Aug 1, 2012 - 04:36am PT

Wow! What an epic. Probably the most emotionally involved supertopo TR for me. I was mentally cheering for you all the way, almost down and out in the middle, then after you decided to continue, hoping that you would still make it. Smiling at the monitor when Cheyne arrived from the top. I must admit that part had a bit of Deus ex machina feeling to it :)
Thanks for sharing this awesome story, and more awesome climbs to you.

ulybaZZa

Trad climber

Bonn, Germany

Aug 1, 2012 - 08:21am PT

And BTW, your elbow injury looks exactly the same as the one I got some weeks ago while climbing a not so big wall in Arco. I looked rather bloody and I also suspected a broken toe, so we bailed right away. You're really bad ass for keeping going despite all the problems, especially being solo.

Anonym Astmatiker

Ice climber

Trondheim, Norway

Aug 1, 2012 - 07:45am PT

Great TR. Been crying on a wall a few times myself too.

cowpoke

climber

Aug 1, 2012 - 07:51am PT

Such a great read and inspiration. Wow.

Marlow

Sport climber

OSLO

Aug 1, 2012 - 08:09am PT

Awesome story and great gear pictures.

“I’m Mark Hudon, and I’m badass,” I said to myself, and almost started crying.

That's badass writing the soft way!

Dos XX

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Aug 1, 2012 - 08:15am PT

Epic, and beautiful, Mark.

icegang

Big Wall climber

Seoul,Korea

Aug 1, 2012 - 09:06am PT

Awesome...Mark....You are the great...

WyoRockMan

climber

Grizzlyville, WY

Aug 1, 2012 - 11:30am PT

Absolutely inspiring.

A good friend always says, "Let's be sure to pack an extra ration of humble pie, just in case.", prior to our alpine adventures. It rings true in this TR. I hope you view this climb as a success, if nothing else, it is motivation for an untold number to get off the couch and do something.

Wow.

matty

Trad climber

Sad the forum is gone =(

Aug 1, 2012 - 01:57pm PT

Great TR Mark! Thanks for all the on topic stuff you contribute and the inspiration you give.

donald perry

Trad climber

kearny, NJ

Aug 1, 2012 - 06:28pm PT

Dear Mark,

My son and I just finished the Salathe, we did about 2 pitches a day but we could have done more. The hardest part mentally was first dealing with the prospective of hauling 50 gallons / 400 pounds of water and then physically lugging down the 200 pounds of gear. We ran out of water [intentionally on the last day just to see what it was like] at the base of the ledges. I have a hip injury I am trying to recover from over the last two years, so I called for some hired help to help carry down the loads the rest of the way. I think that was a good idea. Originally I was planning on having people carry everything, so I actually achieved more than I thought I was able to do.

You can see our videos here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYan14FCeLY numbers 1-14. Or do a search under redirectionalism.

I feel I have no business giving you advice, but you seem to be looking for feedback, so, foremost if I was you I would not give up.

First I would advise you to go to naturalnews.com and examine your diet. For example are you drinking fluoridated water?, it's poison. Root canals can be very unhealthy too, do a search on naturalnews.com.

Second, now that you have gone this far you know what gear you need, and how you should be feeling as you get back up to your high point. You’re a lot further along than you think.

Third, I would cheat a little here so you don’t waste any more time, go back to the top when you are feeling better and FIRST do those last pitches.

Fourth, develop your endurance and strength until you get back there again, keep a record and note your progress.

Eat right, and keep exercising, if you do that I have confidence that your next trip will be with more energy and you should make it to the top. What do you think? [Before you answer please do some thinking about your diet and check out that naturalnew.com website I mentioned.]

Good luck and God bless you,

DJP

dee ee

Mountain climber

Of THIS World (Planet Earth)

Aug 1, 2012 - 11:12pm PT

"Not only one of the best trip reports, but one of the best articles about a wall ever.
Thanks for the inspiration and the brutal honesty Mark. "

Yes sir.

edit. Dude, that was a long story but I couldn't stop reading and I'm supposed to be packing for a backpacking trip tomorrow. OK, back to work.

Nick

climber

Dazed, Confused

Aug 1, 2012 - 11:19pm PT

Nice Mark. You set the standard for good judgement in a tough situation.

BooYah

Social climber

Ely, Nv

Aug 1, 2012 - 11:19pm PT

Nice Trip report.
I must say, though the birds are (mostly) NOT SWALLOWS. They are swifts.
Swifts, sir. Ask your local birdMan. Not a big deal.

Again, Nice trip. Kudos.

westhegimp

Social climber

granada hills

Aug 1, 2012 - 11:37pm PT

Thanks Mark

Waited for this TR and you did not disappoint! What a great read. I laughed, I cried, even learned a bunch! Keep up the fine work.

Thanks again for your inspiring words.

Wes

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

On the road.

Author's Reply

Aug 2, 2012 - 12:14am PT

Thank you again for all your kind comments.

Klaus, for me to do that I'd have to do it on the lead, and then if I did that I'd have to take them all out when cleaning, leaving the pitch totally naked. I can't imagine all the grief I'd get.

One of these days though... I'm toying with the idea of doing that on Lost in America this fall.

cornel

climber

Lake Tahoe, Nevada

Aug 2, 2012 - 03:44pm PT

Thank you Mark for an inspiring dose of reality. Yes sir soloing on the big stone will strip you right down to your core. Never soloed but I have done a couple of A5s on El Cap and as you clarify the rating system is flawed. There are significant differences in many routes with the same rating, absolute fact. Love to do a climb as clean as possible but when you hit the A4 zone it is pretty hard to get it clean without a huge cheater stick which is in fact cheating. I agree with Pass the Pitons Pete it is all about the bounce test too especially on fixed gear. Got to bounce on those placements fairly hard absolutely on heads. Thanx too for replacing those bolts. That was above and beyond the call of duty...Great report and good judgement in calling for help. I had to call for help about 12 years ago on Salathe. . Verglas from a storm about 6 inches deep plastered on the last 2 pitches made it impossible to climb, so I asked for a rescue. Knowing when to say when is as crucial as any other skill in this crazy game. Again thanx for laying it all out there. Really enjoy your writings...

cornel

climber

Lake Tahoe, Nevada

Aug 2, 2012 - 12:00pm PT

Oh yes, another thing you might appreciate Mark is something I discovered a few years ago that really facilitates a faster recovery from big walls. It is a Chinese medicinal supplement called Super Jing when taken in conjunction with Accupuncture treatments. The synergistic effect accelerates recovery big time. It is one thing to fatigue the body but quite another to exhaust the body as big walls do. Sustained exhaustion renders the body into a dangerous state where disease can enter. Kind of like being on A4+ and not knowing it. I really appreciate Super Jing now that I am well into my 60's. ...There is always a way one simply must find the way. Keep Cranking' !!

DerekCl

Trad climber

Altanta

Aug 2, 2012 - 01:45pm PT

Thanks for another awesome trip report Mark! I am relatively new to aid climbing and you are a real inspiration and wealth of information. Whenever I have a question about best practices I like to ask myself WWMD. The trip reports/videos/pictures you post have been a great place to study different techniques, and skills.

Thanks!

Sidenote: Why does this comment thread sound a lot like a herbal remedy infomercial?

Mark have you tried C8H10N4O2? I hear it is great for big walls...

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Aug 2, 2012 - 01:50pm PT

does not it just completely suck
and totally kill buzzes

when you get to the top,
one way or the other,
and your realize with emotional pain

that your ascent is insignificant
and nothing matters,
beyond the end of the pitch.

six could be nine,
no matter.

smiles smash tragically against realities everywhere,

time and reality march on.

kudo's mark though you have none influence on spirtual concessions.

neither do i, and i still try.

my, is endangered. so is, is.

m_jones

Trad climber

Carson City, NV

Aug 3, 2012 - 01:27am PT

and nothing matters,
beyond the end of the pitch.

Exactly.

How often does one get to be where nothing else matters.

How many tell the tale so well.

Thanks Mark!

gonzo chemist

climber

the east coast, for now.

Aug 3, 2012 - 01:53am PT

Mr. Hudon,
Outstanding TR. The emotionally raw nature of it cuts to the very heart of climbing experiences. Iron Hawk sounds like a route to be reckoned with.

I'm just a nobody, but I respect your TRs.

RP3

Big Wall climber

Newbury Park

Aug 3, 2012 - 11:06am PT

BTW...that pic of everyone on the approach is a commercial for 5.10 guides!

Crimpergirl

Sport climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Aug 3, 2012 - 11:24am PT

Really awesome TR.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

On the road.

Author's Reply

Aug 3, 2012 - 11:57am PT

I noticed that also, Roger.

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Aug 3, 2012 - 12:12pm PT

Perfect epic on El Cap is when you just barely have enough juice to get to the top. It hardly matters that you were a few feet off one way or another, you found the limit and touched the "death state" from which you are reborn in some way

and you and PTPP should simul-solo two routes next to each other sometime. I dunno why

Great tr

Peace

karl

cornel

climber

Lake Tahoe, Nevada

Aug 3, 2012 - 09:00pm PT

One other tip - when nailing any A4 or A5 pitch never clip the junk to the lead line. If a placement is body weight or only slightly better never clip it. If it blows and you have clipped a string of body weight placements you are simply going to have to redo all that work. Had you not clipped them to the lead line you would only have to redo a single placement. . A traverse is the only exception.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Aug 3, 2012 - 07:45pm PT

Thanks for this Mark. Inspiring as always!

irene+

Trad climber

nowhere

Aug 3, 2012 - 09:36pm PT

Incredibly amazing mental feat - Congratulations!!!
And thanks for writing up the story and sharing.

Scott McNamara

climber

Tucson, Arizona

Aug 3, 2012 - 10:08pm PT

Amazing adventure! Well told. It is the rare teller that allows the reader to feel the saga.

Thanks!

P.S.

I am hoping for a double feature—The Thriller in Manilla, The Rumble in the Jungle. You and Max---Hootin’ Hudon and Hawk--—Saturday Night at the Movies, where an older John Wayne teams up with his buddy and cleans up.....Iron Hawk.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

On the road.

Author's Reply

Aug 3, 2012 - 10:31pm PT

Scott, Ha! just today I was texting with Max and told him that the New Jersey Turnpike was in our future!

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber

North wet, and Da souf

Aug 3, 2012 - 11:55pm PT

One of you best ever Mark, Thanks MUCH!!!

Awesome soul-searching writing!!!

Hummerchine

Trad climber

East Wenatchee, WA

Aug 5, 2012 - 08:51pm PT

THAT was TRULY the best TR I have EVER read!

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Aug 6, 2012 - 11:58pm PT

Cornel - are you knott familiar with John Yates' amazing invention known as the Scream Aid? These little load limiting slings deploy at a constant force of only 285 pounds, and allow marginal pieces of fixed mank to actually stop a decent fall.

If you were as much of a pussy as me, and afraid to fall like me, you would knott only know about these things, but you would have plenty of them on your aid rack, like I do.

I clip every damn piece of crap I can.

Hummerchine

Trad climber

East Wenatchee, WA

Aug 7, 2012 - 12:52am PT

I'm sure many of you have already read it, but this TR is a close tie...

http://www.fishproducts.com/topos/nativeTR/nativeTR.html

(I'd forgotten about it)

Wicked rad epic Mark! I can certainly relate to bad karma stacking up against you, and after a fair bit of solo climbing myself how it feels to be alone up there!

John Fine

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Aug 17, 2012 - 11:15am PT

What makes this particular report such better literature than the others is that in here you are experiencing the universal human condition of "meeting your match", coming to the end of something (not wall climbing altogether, but hard solo wall climbing). The other reports, however well written, are primarily of interest to other wall climbers. This one is literature - it will be of interest to the general population.

When you cried for an hour after giving a pitch away for the first time ever, I cried (well, at least in my mind) remembering how I couldn't get up Lovin' Arms with you (for the first time ever); remembering every wall bail; remembering when I could climb 5.12.

Everyone will cry remembering something they have lost, forever....

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Oct 29, 2012 - 01:12pm PT

Only kidding, Mark, since I was JUST BUMPING YOUR FABULOUS TRIP REPORT! :O)

Charlie D.

Trad climber

Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra

Oct 29, 2012 - 07:11pm PT

Wow! Super heavy double duty Mark, awesome! Inspirational, you have twice the determination of the heaviest of hitters. Thanks for this TR, amazing!

snowhazed

Trad climber

Oaksterdam, CA

Nov 5, 2012 - 08:08pm PT

aid climbing seems dangerous....

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

On the road.

Author's Reply

Jul 9, 2013 - 01:15pm PT

No joke, I'm going on a month long free climbing trip to Colorado this September to get in physical and mental shape to lead that 5.9 pitch when Max and I get up to it via the AO Wall this October. It still scares me that much!

Don Paul

Social climber

Washington DC

Jul 9, 2013 - 12:59pm PT

You're going back up to finish the last pitch? I'll put it on my calendar to tune in to supertopo for the live feed.

Not sure how you plan to train for a runout slab, isn't that what it was? Better off on the glacier point apron. There's run out climbing in Eldo and the rock can be kind of slick, but its really just a crag. You'd like the Diamond, it's not el Cap but has serious mountain weather and a great adventure even on the casual route.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

On the road.

Author's Reply

Jul 9, 2013 - 01:24pm PT

Just basically climbing, climbing and more climbing is going to do it for me.

If all goes to plan, we'll be starting around the end of Sept, early October.

Brock

Trad climber

RENO, NV

Jul 9, 2013 - 01:39pm PT

Proud of ya Mark!

I'm going through the years of being a father with two young girls and have some of my climbing goals on hold. I have been following your post and love them.

Hope to climb with ya someday, either here in Truckee/Donner or Yosemite.

Cheers!

couchmaster

climber

Jul 9, 2013 - 02:41pm PT

This TR goes past 11. 2nd read here, maybe goes to 12. But ratings are worthless, it speaks for itself. Fantastic job on it. Great read. Good luck on the 2nd lap on the 5.9. I'm sure you'll be laughing and flying up it this time.

BMcC

Trad climber

Livermore

Jul 9, 2013 - 03:00pm PT

Awesome efforts and TR! Nice to see it bumped.

Noff

Big Wall climber

Nashville, TN

Jul 15, 2013 - 04:08pm PT

Great read, and great photos. Can't wait to get to Yosemite in May!

Dirka

Trad climber

Hustle City

Jul 15, 2013 - 05:02pm PT

Amazing!

bbbeans

Trad climber

Feb 14, 2014 - 01:12pm PT

Bumpity bump bump for one of my favorite trip reports.

Ottawa Doug

Social climber

Ottawa, Canada

Feb 15, 2014 - 10:03pm PT

Holy $hit!
Awesome TR.

Thanks,
Doug

ShawnInPaso

climber

Paso Robles, CA

Feb 15, 2014 - 11:14pm PT

While I've never met Mark Hudon, I can honestly say I have more respect for him then 99% of the people I know. He is one true bad ass.

PS. Excellent TR.

Trusty Rusty

climber

Tahoe Area

Mar 12, 2014 - 01:19am PT

Awesome tenacity and TR Mark, bump worthy.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Mar 12, 2014 - 02:51am PT

Dear Mark,

My son and I just finished the Salathe, we did about 2 pitches a day but we could have done more. The hardest part mentally was first dealing with the prospective of hauling 50 gallons / 400 pounds of water and then physically lugging down the 200 pounds of gear. We ran out of water [intentionally on the last day just to see what it was like] at the base of the ledges.

...

I feel I have no business giving you advice, but you seem to be looking for feedback, so, foremost if I was you I would not give up.

First I would advise you to go to naturalnews.com and examine your diet. For example are you drinking fluoridated water?, it's poison. Root canals can be very unhealthy too, do a search on naturalnews.com.

Second, now that you have gone this far you know what gear you need, and how you should be feeling as you get back up to your high point. You’re a lot further along than you think.

Third, I would cheat a little here so you don’t waste any more time, go back to the top when you are feeling better and FIRST do those last pitches.

Fourth, develop your endurance and strength until you get back there again, keep a record and note your progress.

Eat right, and keep exercising, if you do that I have confidence that your next trip will be with more energy and you should make it to the top. What do you think? [Before you answer please do some thinking about your diet and check out that naturalnew.com website I mentioned.]

Good luck and God bless you,

DJP

I'm just going to leave this here.

10b4me

Social climber

Lida Junction

Mar 12, 2014 - 10:31am PT

Bump

Don Paul

Social climber

Washington DC

Aug 14, 2016 - 12:42pm PT

Mark, the Enormocast needs to interview you. Please call (970) 274-2691. Thanks.

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Aug 14, 2016 - 12:48pm PT

Thnx wow!,,!!!

madbolter1

Big Wall climber

Denver, CO

Aug 14, 2016 - 05:40pm PT

Mark, you have beautifully encapsulated what both drives us and beats us down during big walls. One paragraph particularly stood out to me: "After ten days of the hardest work of my life, I was virtually paralyzed. Quite simply, I could do nothing. If the pitch had been rated 5.5 R, it wouldn't have mattered, because I wouldn't have been able to climb it."

People that never solo big walls do not understand, and it is impossible to convey in words what it "is like" or "feels like." You cracked the door enough to let people take a peak inside, but there is no "knowing" from words what "it's like" to live there. You've got me all choked up writing this response, because I'm so sympathetic with the mental churning I know you are going through even now. I've never met you, but I have great respect for you.

I have no platitudes to offer about "getting back into the saddle" or anything of that nature. I can only offer my respect that you stood at the edge of that big, black hole we all have inside, and you (unlike most people on Earth) committed to plumbing some of its depths. There is in principle no failure in such a commitment.

What you discovered takes a lot of time to process, and in the process you know yourself much better than before. "The unexamined life is not worth living." Mark, yours has been a life worth living, and this or that individual "failure" is flatly irrelevant as "performance" in that life! The path of self-examination goes on for you, and I honor you on your path.

BLUEBLOCR

Social climber

joshua tree

Aug 14, 2016 - 08:11pm PT

this thread is Gold! Mark you da man.

To finish off the system, I have the top of my haul line tied to the bottom of the tag bag. This means that I don't have to climb with the weight of the haul line hanging off of my harness. I do the final tag up to the anchor, set up my belay, and then I rappel the haul line back to the lower anchor to release the pigs onto the haul line where they hang in space while I clean the pitch. Then I reach the top, and haul the load.

duh!! can't believe i never thought of that. tagging the hual line with the lead line BRILLIANT!