Trip Report
Italy - Tre Cime di Lavaredo -doing it the Cassin`s way

by stefano607518
Tuesday July 19, 2016 1:58am
a 3 days relax climbing on dubious rock, sketchy rappels, one rope less, a wounded ear (rockfall), south climbing, north wind and freezing temps in July.many beers and way too many kgs of pasta.....

a normal day in the alps

the full story, as usual, here:

http://becauseflatsucks.blogspot.co.at/2016/07/italy-dolomites-tre-cime-di-lavaredo.html

top left corner top right corner
Credit: stefano607518
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: stefano607518
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: stefano607518
bottom left corner bottom right corner


  Trip Report Views: 2,946
stefano607518 		About the Author
stefano607518 is a trad climber from italy/austria/switzerland.

Comments
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Jul 19, 2016 - 02:16am PT
Nice. TFPU.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 19, 2016 - 06:41am PT
Thanks Stefano....beautiful! My grandparents are from the hills near Modena. I love Italy, need to make a visit soon!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Jul 19, 2016 - 06:41am PT
Fantastic stuff, Stephano. Beautiful. Quite the line up of climbers at the traverse, eh?

BAd
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Jul 19, 2016 - 09:26am PT
Thanks for posting up again Stefano. I love your TR's.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 19, 2016 - 10:34am PT
I never tire of your trip reports, and particularly those from the Dolomites. Thank you very much.

John
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Republic, WA
  Jul 19, 2016 - 01:06pm PT
I never tire of your trip reports, and particularly those from the Dolomites. Thank you very much.

What he said.

Wayno
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
  Jul 19, 2016 - 01:15pm PT
Stefano,

Thanks for the TR, it brings back memories. I was there a little while ago…wait a minute…it’s more than a little while ago…time flies.

Actually, next month, it will be a full 40 years since my last visit. I was with Mike Graham on a side excursion from Chamonix, but cold weather and fresh snow prevented us from trying the great north faces of the Tre Cime. So, like you, we explored the sunny side. Here is the snow in August that forced us to focus on the south faces.



A couple from the Cassin, which ascends a splendid, narrow face. We were trying to free climb the routes we did in Europe because that was the style we were used to. This was still a new concept to most of the European climbers we met and those who observed us always asked us what we were doing. We figured this route went free at about mid 5.10, with the crux being a pitch with a bolt ladder if I recall correctly.


Mike and I also did the Comici route on the Punta di Freida. Mike got to the Lavaredo hut a day than I and did the Spigalo Giallo with an Italian he met there. Still a regret I missed that one.

Here's Mike soloing the easy upper part of one of the routes we did.


Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Jul 19, 2016 - 01:26pm PT
Io amo il Spigolo Giallo! Quella linea bellisima!

grazie mille!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 21, 2016 - 03:37am PT
Awesomeness!
curlie

Trad climber
SLO, CA
  Jul 21, 2016 - 07:58am PT
Beautiful! I haven't been on the Tre Cime, but seeing them with my own eyes is something I'll never forget. Stayed at Rifugio Lavaredo and never wanted to leave (espresso and beer in the backcountry - thought I'd died and gone to heaven). Gotta get back there.

Thanks for sharing!
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Jul 21, 2016 - 08:15am PT
Nice
henryx

Trad climber
munich, germany
  Jul 24, 2016 - 12:04am PT
this is the Cassin on the "verly little summit" (cima picolissima) of Lavaredo, Italy, and NOT the famous CASSIN on "west summit" (cima ovest)! A little bit more precision can't hurt ...

the pics show the exposed traverse and the dihedral 50 m below the summit ...
stefano607518

Trad climber
italy/austria/switzerland
Author's Reply  Jul 24, 2016 - 10:21am PT
Hentyx,

YES right you are right, the CIMA PICCOLISSIMA, the Cassin, right there, the traverse is a VERY EASY short on very good rock....

but you know the area as you do not leave far from Innsbruck.

the description on the link is clear as clear water to me
but it does not really matter to you right?

there is a story behind... you know that stuff written between the pictures... hope you enjoy it, it is a nice one.

So, in Brief, we repeated what Cassin and Co did in July 1934: Namely
the cassin (yes, on the Piccolissima....merely 300m not the Cassin on the big north wall which is 450m....especially because it was very very cold that day.... so we are kind a smart you see;-) we stayed in the sun...) and then the gelbe kante of Comici in the cima ...PICCOLA,

have a good one buddy ;-)

and CLICK on the link to read the story next time ;-) ....you make me outrageously happy while doing it

see you in the Martinswand next time...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Jul 24, 2016 - 10:27am PT

An excellent way of combining present day adventure and climbing history... TFPU!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Jul 25, 2016 - 12:11pm PT
Super TR and thanks for the vivid look into the past and such a Classic route and Classic climbers!
Bruce Nyberg

Trad climber
Sheridan, Wyoming
  Aug 1, 2016 - 05:12pm PT
Deja vu all over again. Thanks to Ric and Mikes ( friends of mine) tales I decided to head there the following year, 1977. After England I hitched to the Tre Cima and camped between the hut and the crags. Made friends with some Spanish climbers and did the Spigiallo Giallo with Sevi from Murcia. Two days later did the Cassin on the Cima Picolisimo with an Englishman named Mike. On the raps down we came to an anchor that had only a couple of old pins so I backed them up with some pro of my own. Mike went first and when he yelled "off", he added, "that's a wild one" . I yelled "WHAT " but recieved no reply. As I started off I took a last look at the anchor and decided the rap would be okay off the fixed gear and retrived my backup pro. About 30 feet down the rap was airborne. ( Dolomite routes have a lot of that), below me was Mike on a small ledge clipped in to a huge nest of pins. The only problem was the end of the ropes hung about a foot above Mikes head and five feet out from the rock. Lucklly, we pulled it off and lived to tell the tale. Thanks for sharing your story. It allowed me to relive mine. One more thing; Hello To Ric! Long time .FYI I do remember where " Spatula" talk was born and by whom. (Saw a YouTube video) Cheers, Bruce, now in Santiago Chile
John Morton

climber
  Aug 1, 2016 - 08:01pm PT
I treasure the memory of this beautiful area, which I visited in 1965 with my Yosemite pals Steve Thompson, Jeff Dozier and Bill Peppin. Steve and Jeff did the Comici on the Grande while Bill and I did the Cassin on the Ovest. Such a thrill, to have read the hair-raising accounts by the Austrian and Italian greats who pioneered the Dolomite faces, and then to walk up to the routes and start up them! We may have been the first Americans on those routes. At least we had never met any Yanks who had done them, and there weren't all that many total in those days.
Go
Recent Trip Reports