Trip Report
Last Train To Clarksville With Jeremy, Dia De Los Diablo
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Wednesday November 16, 2011 1:00pm
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Last Train To Clarksville.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUUSdvwEC_Y
Sad to say, but for undisclosed reasons, this will be the final Jeremy and Survival TR for awhile.
The good news is that it was the most AWESOME mid-November day ever!
A new friend from CA contacted me about getting acquainted with New Mexico climbing. We set up a date for Monday. Unfortunately, _ _ _ _ _ came down with a bad case of Californiapussinossis and was unable to make it.
You know who you are, and you know I'm kidding!
Jeremy insisted that we go to someplace I hadn't been before. He insisted, Diablo Canyon. So, it was ON!!
This place is SOOOOO much better than it appears at first glance.
First up was Post Moderate. 5.9, but very long, surprisingly steep and pumpy.
We're talking can't get down with one rope long, like 140 feet?
Jeremy kept hollering about the incredible incut holds everywhere.
Amazing holds abound, but still steep enough to get plenty of exercise!!
Borrowed shot from Mt Proj.
Cool shot eh?
Perfect fall sunshine with the magnificent Sangre De Cristo Mts for a backdrop!!
Back in a bit!!!
survival
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About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme. |
Comments
neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Nov 16, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
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Awesome....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 16, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 16, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
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Amazing looking rock! Never heard of the place, but definitely want to check it out next time I'm in N.M. Thanks for sharing this.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 16, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
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Wow Survival, what a difference when you post the photo via another website vs uploading to ST - so much better.
Thanks for the glimpse of somewhere new. Jealous!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nov 16, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
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NIce Bruce, amazing how much climbing can make me so happy, especially in the cold weather times, huh?
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jeff leads
Sport climber
ca
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Nov 16, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
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Bruce,
Sorry I missed this trip. Got a shot for the calipussinossis and they tell me syptoms should clear up in a week or two. Looks like you boys had a great time. Nice looking rock and pictures!
next time,
Jeff
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Bowser
Social climber
Durango CO
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Nov 16, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
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Nice Survival.
We drove out there one day to climb Post Mod but it started snowing. It is still on my hit list.
TB
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nov 16, 2011 - 04:37pm PT
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Survival, is rilodyte (spelling), similar to basalt?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 16, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
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I'll get some more pix up tonight J, I promise.
Gotta hustle for a bit longer!
So sorry we missed you Jeff!
Two more routes to go!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 16, 2011 - 08:15pm PT
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Oh, did I forget to tell you about the .11d that Jeremy stuck us on?
Got a nice little spanking out of that one, but I'm saving it for last.....
Next up was Naked Lunch, another amazing, looong, steep pumpy pitch.
Only about mid-ten, but really full value.
It ends up on quite the exposed, airy arete. And it's a long pitch, so it feels pretty exciting up there!
Coming up after dinner!!
Survival, is rilodyte (spelling), similar to basalt?
Ryholite and basalt are cousins in the igneous family tree....
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 16, 2011 - 08:36pm PT
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Looks like a fun day out for you guys, as usual.
Sad to see the end of the bromance, though.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 16, 2011 - 09:00pm PT
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Sad to see the end of the bromance, though.
No sh#t brutha. I still love you both though!
Check out the steep arete straight above on Naked Lunch!
Jeremy led it also.
The ass whoopin' is still ahead. And the sunset!!
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Bowser
Social climber
Durango CO
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Nov 16, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
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If I remember right, there is a nice looking 5.9 hand/finger crack just to the right.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Nov 16, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
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SWEEEEET Bruce...
Oh ....way homo.
P.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 17, 2011 - 10:45am PT
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Thanks guys. Ok, time for a little 11d butt kick action.
We thought we were on the classic 10+ Grape Ape, but were ten feet too far to the left and ended up on Pale Face, 11d!!
(No wonder we thought we were weak and lame...)
Jeremy led over half of it, flamed, and lowered down to give me a go.
I climbed to the high point, got 3 more bolts clipped, flamed, lowered.
Jeremy went back up and got the chains. We were WORKED!!
Another shot borrowed from Mtn Project.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 17, 2011 - 10:53am PT
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Some guys have all the fun.
Could this also have been title "Two Goofs in a Gulch"?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 17, 2011 - 08:54pm PT
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Two goofs in a gulch...sounds about right!
SUNSET !!
Twilight drive!! Thanks for all the good times J.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 18, 2011 - 06:12pm PT
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Shameless self bump for Hankster.
Hey at least theres 5.10, 5.11 and good pix in it!!
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AlexCobbs
Trad climber
Santa Fe, NM
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Nov 18, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
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Great to see some action out at Diablo. Excellent pics there Survival. Looks like you and Jeremy had a stellar time. It is a very sweet area. I haven't climbed much there yet, I plan to though.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 19, 2011 - 09:18am PT
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Thanks Alex. That Winter Wall is really something. What a fun place!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Nov 19, 2011 - 10:26am PT
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Fun looking area. Nice job, boyz!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Nov 19, 2011 - 10:45am PT
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Thanks Survival!
Love your Gneiss & Gnarly trip reports!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 19, 2011 - 04:41pm PT
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Yo eKat, yes, I think that was the first sushi-fest after I got here?
Can't believe I didn't make it to that one.....
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Nov 20, 2011 - 06:59pm PT
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What gorgeous-looking rock! Thanks for the pix.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 29, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
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Non-FA, Old Guy, Smoked on 11d, New Mexico Bumpage!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Nov 29, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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Srvival, you are right from your first photo with the crag in the distance it looks like choss, but you can see the rock quality in the up close photos. They look like fairly long pitches for sport climbs as well. Nice thread.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Aug 9, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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Bump just 'cause I miss my fremisis Jeremy........
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Aug 9, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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what looks like my kind of approach.
You got that right Silver. The approach there doesn't even reach the bottom rung of the approach/pain/suffer interface scale!!
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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Aug 14, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
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Great Pictures ! Looks like a fun pile of choss
:)
steve
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jan 26, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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Bump cuz I miss Jeremy....WAAAAA!!!!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 26, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
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Bump cuz I miss Jeremy....WAAAAA!!!!!
Did his mom send him to his room?
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