Trip Report
Moonraker - A Belay from a Boat!
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Wednesday October 26, 2016 1:31am
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Hi there SuperTopoists and warm greetings from a cold, grey day in Bristol in the UK
Have you ever used a boat as a belay? Well here is a short film I made about fellow climber and accomplished sailor, Captain Bob Watson, who had this long held dream to combine his two great passions of climbing and sailing to "belay from the boat" on one of the UK's greatest HVS rock climbs called "Moonraker" at The Old Redoubt, Berry Head near Brixham. First climbed in August 1967 by Pat Littlejohn and Pete Biven, Moonraker is one of the greatest climbs of the South West with a stunning line, superb atmosphere, spectacular positions plus steep, intimidating climbing on big holds.
In the words of the Captain himself, this ambition had "been in gestation for about 25 years to sail in, do the route, abseil down, back into the boat and then off we go". Anyway this short video features the lovely MS Erin, a bit of brain-melting exposure plus some aerial drone footage and did Cap'n Bob fulfil his long held dream? Well this is the story of our day:
[ Click to View YouTube Video]
You cannot fail to notice there is a bit of a "theme" in the video what with the climb being called Moonraker, also my mate and I (being landlubbers) ending up "shaken not stirred" due to a wee bit of sea sickness and a few "Bob girls" in the opening and closing credits...
Anyway hopefully it may inspire a few of you lovely people, if ever in the South West of the UK to visit Berry Head and climb on one of the great classic climbs of the South West!
Cheers and happy climbing! :-)
Dave
Bald Eagle
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About the Author
Bald Eagle is a trad climber from the UK who likes to boldly go where quite a few people have been before... :-) |
Comments
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 27, 2016 - 01:16pm PT
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I'm fast at some things slow at others. I fixed every credit window.
If I missed one It is the oner that proves the imperfections of a man.
To be honest I'm amazed that the only post from you has been the one ?
Again thnx for sharing places and all this fun your having !
I've taken the liberty to attach one of your stellar videos,
To the mavens Flames pages
it is hard for us who's earthly paths have only been the
The paths of our residences, to come to terms with all the beauty else where that we in our youth did not strive to go.
while none of us would trade you the Sierra (doh!) for the Scottish coast, for many more reasons than just For the weather, and the forgotten (on these shores) the dignity that
is required to be a British citizen.
It is a thrill and a joy to see these places through your artistic eye.
Ho my the distance we have come from grainy hand developed Black and white snaps!
What great fun !
Thnx again.
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Oct 26, 2016 - 07:04am PT
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I'm fast at some things slow at others. I fixed every credit window.
If I missed one It is the oner that proves the imperfections of a man.
To be honest I'm amazed that the only post from you has been the one ?
Again thnx for sharing places and all this fun your having !
I've taken the liberty to attach one of your stellar videos,
To the mavens Flames pages
it is hard for us who's earthly paths have only been the
The paths of our residences, to come to terms with all the beauty else where that we in our youth did not strive to go.
while none of us would trade you the Siearra for the Scottish coast, for many more reasons than just For the weather, and the forgotten (on these shores) the dignity that
is required to be a British citizen.
It is a thrill and a joy to see these places through your artistic eye.
Ho my the distance we have come from grainy hand developed Black and white snaps!
What great fun !
Thnx again.
Hey Gnome many thanks for your kind words plus eloquent response! The "Moonraker experience" was a rather unusual but fun-tastic adventurous day out and it was great to see the look of joy on Captain Bob's face as he topped out and fulfilled a 25 year ambition! Happy climbing!
Cheers
Dave
Ps thanks also for the share of one of my wee videos... :-)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 26, 2016 - 08:54am PT
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I don't know how many more of your TR's I can take, Baldy! Sea cliff climbing is the best! We do have an erstwhile thread for that nonsense lolling around here.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/724921/By-the-sea-the-shining-sea
Not quite belaying from the boat but a shore party was organized - Stockholm skerries.
Some nondescript Welsh choss pile...
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Oct 26, 2016 - 09:53am PT
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Great TR!
Me think this boat needs a belay?
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Oct 26, 2016 - 10:05am PT
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That looks pretty darn fun!
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i-b-goB
Big Wall climber
Nutty
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Oct 26, 2016 - 10:24am PT
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"AYE AYE CAPTAIN"
Nautical nonsense be something we wish!
Your Bald Eagle Productions are "00" good!
Just watch out for Jaws
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 26, 2016 - 10:41am PT
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Smooth climbing, relaxed atmosphere and a little bit of gardening... very cool...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 26, 2016 - 11:27am PT
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Very cool indeed! Thanks for a most enjoyable trip report.
John
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 26, 2016 - 05:02pm PT
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quite nice
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Oct 26, 2016 - 08:15pm PT
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Nice! The opening music was to the James Bond Film "You Only Live Twice" and not "Moonraker," but you probably already knew that.
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Oct 27, 2016 - 01:36am PT
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I don't know how many more of your TR's I can take, Baldy! Sea cliff climbing is the best! We do have an erstwhile thread for that nonsense lolling around here.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/724921/By-the-sea-the-shining-sea
Not quite belaying from the boat but a shore party was organized - Stockholm skerries.
Hey Reilly thanks again and you gotta love sea cliff climbing! Is that image of the "nondescript Welsh choss pile" taken in Pembroke perchance?
Cheers
Baldy
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Oct 27, 2016 - 01:41am PT
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Hi guido, NutAgain, i-b-goB, Marlow, JEleazarian, Munge, and Bruce thanks a million for taking the time to post your kind words and I'm glad you enjoyed my wee video!
And thankfully we did not have to deal with an angry Jaws on "Operation Moonraker"... :-)
Cheers
Dave
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Oct 27, 2016 - 02:24am PT
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Dave the Bald Eagle, I have to say, along with the Old Man of Stoer video and this... outstanding.
I did not realise that there is climbing in that neck of the woods in Dorset. I have climbed at Sennen, Cloggy, Lake District and that dreadful Harrisons. Living in Wexford, perhaps it may be worth a journey across St George's Channel, but Lundy is more a priority.
Cheers and keep filming.
Patrick
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 27, 2016 - 07:42am PT
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Uh, Pembroke it's not. Perhaps you've heard of Dream Of White Horses? :-)
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Oct 27, 2016 - 11:50am PT
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Dave the Bald Eagle, I have to say, along with the Old Man of Stoer video and this... outstanding.
I did not realise that there is climbing in that neck of the woods in Dorset. I have climbed at Sennen, Cloggy, Lake District and that dreadful Harrisons. Living in Wexford, perhaps it may be worth a journey across St George's Channel, but Lundy is more a priority.
Cheers and keep filming.
Patrick
Many thanks Patrick and there is superb climbing all over the South West of England, especially on the sea cliffs of Cornwall, Devon and Dorset so well worth a visit or 2! However Lundy is probably the jewel in the crown and a fantastic place to visit and climb! :-)
Cheers
Dave
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Oct 27, 2016 - 11:55am PT
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Uh, Pembroke it's not. Perhaps you've heard of Dream Of White Horses? :-)
Ha ha but of course Reilly and DoWH is a Gogarth classic and one of the great HVS's of the UK! Ironically this route is near the top of my list of classic's to film and climb so watch this space... ;-)
Cheers
Dave
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 27, 2016 - 12:15pm PT
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Bald Eagle
Good stuff and keep up this good stuff ......
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Oct 27, 2016 - 12:56pm PT
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Another top quality video from BEP. First the Old Man, and now this, Wow!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 27, 2016 - 03:40pm PT
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*SIERRA*Im a dumb azz, I refuse were specs in the wee hours before dawn.
whats your pleasure? Dave? or Bald? I'm partial to Davey but . .
Can you explain the Bottle in this picture?
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Oct 28, 2016 - 04:37am PT
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Another top quality video from BEP. First the Old Man, and now this, Wow!
Hey clode and WBraun many thanks for the positive feedback and I really appreciate your appreciation! :-)
Cheers
Dave
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Oct 28, 2016 - 04:43am PT
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whats your pleasure? Dave? or Bald? I'm partial to Davey but . .
Can you explain the Bottle in this picture?
Hi Gnome I really don't mind but most people call me Dave!
Anyway the "bottle" you see is actually a huge stabilising bolt which was put in, after all the relevant authorities were contacted, to stabilise a very large block below the first belay. I think it was deemed to dangerous to remove the block... :-)
Cheers
Dave
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