Trip Report
My first TR- 10 Days of Fun: Big Sleep - Fresno Dome- Snake Dike - Cathedral Peak
Wednesday June 17, 2015 11:57am
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Having wrapped up another semester of teaching at the university it was time for a break. My brother flew into Fresno from Canuckistan to escape the cold and enjoy some Sierra granite.
Our first stop was Big Sleep up in Shuteye Ridge. The weather was less than ideal, it had been raining for a couple of days (I though it was a drought?) and when we arrived Big Sleep was sitting in a cloud. But stoke remained high.
Three of us went up Afternoon nap (5.7) in a cloud, route finding was interesting. Thankfully the climbing is easy, even for crumby climbers like myself.
We thrashed around the summit looking for a descent trail. Being unable to see more than a few feet in front of our faces, we opted to rap the route.
The weather improved over the next couple of days, and we headed to Frenso Dome to sample some more Chicken-head climbing. I love Fresno Dome, terrific climbing, and there never seems to be more than a couple of other climbers present.
I love that there is no guidebook for Fresno Dome. We wandered around the base and found the start of what I think must have been Whiskey Bill (5.7).
Seeing a bunch of chicken-heads up above, my wife got all pumped up and starting leading up the route and while I was still wandering around the base looking at the climbs. Well I guess we're doing Whiskey Bill.
The climbing was ultra-fun. Pitch 2 was all Chicken-heads, with mostly slings for pro.
Topped out to wonderful views. I highly recommended this route!
For the final leg of the trip we headed to the valley for a few days of climbing. Having never been up Half-dome we hit up Snake Dike. We left Summerdale campground at 3:30am and were on the trail by 5am. WE took the Mist trail and arrived at the base by 7am. Despite my efforts at an early start we were still the 2nd party to arrive at the climb
The climbing was cruiser and pretty fun. About 30 minutes after starting to climb 8 people showed up at the base! A little different than our day at Fresno Dome.
The climbing was pretty mellow, the infamous runouts were not so bad. Maybe I have been climbing too much slab lately?
We topped out the 8 pitches after about 3 hours, thankfully the party ahead of us were moving quickly. The worst part of the "climb" is the thousand feet of class 2/3 slabs to the summit of half dome
We spent a couple of more days climbing Nutcracker, Munginnella, After Six and After seven, before heading off to Tuolumne to climb Cathedral peak.
It was surprisingly quiet, one other party and a pack-eating, food stealing marmot
The climbing was stellar
We hiked out and enjoyed some time in Tuolumne meadows
Nanobody
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About the Author Nanobody is a wussy, spaghetti armed climber from Fresno, CA. |
Comments
crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Jun 17, 2015 - 11:59am PT
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Good stuff..classics.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jun 17, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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Nice!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 17, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
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Yeehaw! Way to shop around and find the good stuff. Congrats on lots of nice pitches and for staying stoked when the weather was crummy out at Shuteye (Not a common occurrence...that place is usually bluebird!)
Thanks for a fun little trip down memory lane. Those are some of my favorite climbs.
Scott
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 17, 2015 - 12:45pm PT
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This was fun to read and see
thanx for taking the time to share.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jun 17, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
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Great report! High Sierra climbing season is on! Nice kick off!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 17, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
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Thanks for the trip report. You picked some excellent routes, and your pictures brought back some great memories and, I hope, future fun.
John
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Jun 17, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
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Sweet! Great central Sierra sample!
It's a bummer being in the Fresno area and having to drive over an hour to world class climbing! ;)
Please keep the TRs coming, pretty much everyone loves them even if they don't take the time to comment!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Jun 17, 2015 - 01:01pm PT
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Nice variety...tfpu-lars
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
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Jun 17, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
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Somebody really knows how to kick off a summer.
Great pictures, lots of happy smiles!
Keep it up until fall teaching beckons!
Susan
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Tennessee Jed
Trad climber
South Bay
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Jun 17, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
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Awesome!!
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Jun 17, 2015 - 01:59pm PT
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Nice! Liked to pick of climbing in the clouds; that ups the grade a bit.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 17, 2015 - 02:20pm PT
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Nice TR..... TFPU
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jun 17, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
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10 days with your brother that will be long remembered, thanks for posting up!!!
Berg Heil
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2015 - 02:43pm PT
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Nice TR! Keep them coming, we need more people writing about climbing to counter the religious, political, gun wackos.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jun 17, 2015 - 03:17pm PT
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Awesome first TR! Thank you for posting!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jun 17, 2015 - 03:20pm PT
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Stellar TR, thanks!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jun 17, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
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Good stuff.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jun 17, 2015 - 04:24pm PT
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I'm sitting in PT, getting 15' of stim on my bad elbow , so I' m loving the TR. I can almost feel the granite beneath my feet.
But that last photo's got to go. I don't even drink beer and I can hardly stand to look at it.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jun 17, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
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Phyl, great minds think alike! Guess so do bad ones though.
I was so disappointed with that last pic. Ruined the report.
Haha, just kidding, what a great TR and some great routes. Love the Big Sleep fog pics, good job route finding in that.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jun 18, 2015 - 11:46am PT
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I found the bolts on afternoon nap tough to find on a bluebird day, much less in the fog! Nice work! Thanks for the pics. The dyke looks rad. Gotta get up there.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Jun 18, 2015 - 12:05pm PT
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So many fun climbs in 10 days.. you guys sure covered some territory picking off a lot of sweet pitches and views.
Wish more folks would take the time to write up these type of TRs... Great days climbing perfect granite in the high sierra.. does it get any better than this?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 18, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
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Wow. You all been really busy. Awesome stuff!
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Stevee B
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 18, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
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"Like" to what donini said. Thanks for the psych and inspiration!
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looks easy from here
climber
Santa Cruzish
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Jun 18, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
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You had me 'til the last pic. Michalob? Ewww.
Otherwise, looks like an awesome trip!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 18, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
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mmmmmm hmmmmmm. Choice granite tasty nugs!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 18, 2015 - 09:59pm PT
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Good for you guys!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 19, 2015 - 07:05am PT
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right on, that's a good use of one's time in the mtns!!!
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Macronut
Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
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Jun 19, 2015 - 08:27am PT
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Got done in one trip it takes me a a couple seasons. Nice work! Five star trip and TR.
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fishtrap
Trad climber
Bass Lake, CA
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Jun 19, 2015 - 10:15pm PT
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I've lived in the the SoYo area for 10 years and if I had to pick my top 5 easy/moderate climbs that I could climb over and over again, all four of those routes would likely make my list. Nicely done!
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