Trip Report
My first TR- 10 Days of Fun: Big Sleep - Fresno Dome- Snake Dike - Cathedral Peak
Wednesday June 17, 2015 11:57am
Having wrapped up another semester of teaching at the university it was time for a break. My brother flew into Fresno from Canuckistan to escape the cold and enjoy some Sierra granite.

Our first stop was Big Sleep up in Shuteye Ridge. The weather was less than ideal, it had been raining for a couple of days (I though it was a drought?) and when we arrived Big Sleep was sitting in a cloud. But stoke remained high.

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Spirits are high
Spirits are high
Credit: Nanobody
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Three of us went up Afternoon nap (5.7) in a cloud, route finding was interesting. Thankfully the climbing is easy, even for crumby climbers like myself.

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I presume I am on route.
I presume I am on route.
Credit: Nanobody
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We thrashed around the summit looking for a descent trail. Being unable to see more than a few feet in front of our faces, we opted to rap the route.

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Success!
Success!
Credit: Nanobody
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The weather improved over the next couple of days, and we headed to Frenso Dome to sample some more Chicken-head climbing. I love Fresno Dome, terrific climbing, and there never seems to be more than a couple of other climbers present.

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Credit: Nanobody
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I love that there is no guidebook for Fresno Dome. We wandered around the base and found the start of what I think must have been Whiskey Bill (5.7).

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What the heck is this climb? Whiskey Bill?
What the heck is this climb? Whiskey Bill?
Credit: Nanobody
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Seeing a bunch of chicken-heads up above, my wife got all pumped up and starting leading up the route and while I was still wandering around the base looking at the climbs. Well I guess we're doing Whiskey Bill.

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This climb looks good. Go!
This climb looks good. Go!
Credit: Nanobody
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The climbing was ultra-fun. Pitch 2 was all Chicken-heads, with mostly slings for pro.

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Chicken-head-fun
Chicken-head-fun
Credit: Nanobody
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Topped out to wonderful views. I highly recommended this route!

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Now that is relaxing
Now that is relaxing
Credit: Nanobody
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Pride
Pride
Credit: Nanobody
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For the final leg of the trip we headed to the valley for a few days of climbing. Having never been up Half-dome we hit up Snake Dike. We left Summerdale campground at 3:30am and were on the trail by 5am. WE took the Mist trail and arrived at the base by 7am. Despite my efforts at an early start we were still the 2nd party to arrive at the climb

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I feel like I should still be sleeping.
I feel like I should still be sleeping.
Credit: Nanobody
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The climbing was cruiser and pretty fun. About 30 minutes after starting to climb 8 people showed up at the base! A little different than our day at Fresno Dome.
The climbing was pretty mellow, the infamous runouts were not so bad. Maybe I have been climbing too much slab lately?

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Kyle leads out on pitch 2
Kyle leads out on pitch 2
Credit: Nanobody
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Pitch 3. The runouts begin
Pitch 3. The runouts begin
Credit: Nanobody
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Runout? Where?
Runout? Where?
Credit: Nanobody
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We topped out the 8 pitches after about 3 hours, thankfully the party ahead of us were moving quickly. The worst part of the "climb" is the thousand feet of class 2/3 slabs to the summit of half dome

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This part blows
This part blows
Credit: Nanobody
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We spent a couple of more days climbing Nutcracker, Munginnella, After Six and After seven, before heading off to Tuolumne to climb Cathedral peak.

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Yes, that is a mountain
Yes, that is a mountain
Credit: Nanobody
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It was surprisingly quiet, one other party and a pack-eating, food stealing marmot

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Food for me?
Food for me?
Credit: Nanobody
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The climbing was stellar

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Credit: Nanobody
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Nice work
Nice work
Credit: Nanobody
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We hiked out and enjoyed some time in Tuolumne meadows


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Low quality beer, after a high quality climb
Low quality beer, after a high quality climb
Credit: Nanobody
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  Trip Report Views: 2,851
Nanobody
About the Author
Nanobody is a wussy, spaghetti armed climber from Fresno, CA.

Comments
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Jun 17, 2015 - 11:59am PT
Good stuff..classics.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Jun 17, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
Nice!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jun 17, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
Yeehaw! Way to shop around and find the good stuff. Congrats on lots of nice pitches and for staying stoked when the weather was crummy out at Shuteye (Not a common occurrence...that place is usually bluebird!)

Thanks for a fun little trip down memory lane. Those are some of my favorite climbs.

Scott
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jun 17, 2015 - 12:45pm PT
This was fun to read and see
thanx for taking the time to share.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Jun 17, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
Great report! High Sierra climbing season is on! Nice kick off!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 17, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
Thanks for the trip report. You picked some excellent routes, and your pictures brought back some great memories and, I hope, future fun.

John
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Jun 17, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
Sweet! Great central Sierra sample!

It's a bummer being in the Fresno area and having to drive over an hour to world class climbing! ;)

Please keep the TRs coming, pretty much everyone loves them even if they don't take the time to comment!
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Jun 17, 2015 - 01:01pm PT
Nice variety...tfpu-lars
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  Jun 17, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
Somebody really knows how to kick off a summer.
Great pictures, lots of happy smiles!
Keep it up until fall teaching beckons!


Susan
Tennessee Jed

Trad climber
South Bay
  Jun 17, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
Awesome!!
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Jun 17, 2015 - 01:59pm PT
Nice! Liked to pick of climbing in the clouds; that ups the grade a bit.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Jun 17, 2015 - 02:20pm PT
Nice TR..... TFPU
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Jun 17, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
10 days with your brother that will be long remembered, thanks for posting up!!!

Berg Heil
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jun 17, 2015 - 02:43pm PT
Nice TR! Keep them coming, we need more people writing about climbing to counter the religious, political, gun wackos.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 17, 2015 - 03:17pm PT
Awesome first TR! Thank you for posting!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 17, 2015 - 03:20pm PT
Stellar TR, thanks!
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
  Jun 17, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
Good stuff.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Jun 17, 2015 - 04:24pm PT
I'm sitting in PT, getting 15' of stim on my bad elbow , so I' m loving the TR. I can almost feel the granite beneath my feet.

But that last photo's got to go. I don't even drink beer and I can hardly stand to look at it.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Jun 17, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
Phyl, great minds think alike! Guess so do bad ones though.

I was so disappointed with that last pic. Ruined the report.
Haha, just kidding, what a great TR and some great routes. Love the Big Sleep fog pics, good job route finding in that.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Jun 18, 2015 - 11:46am PT
I found the bolts on afternoon nap tough to find on a bluebird day, much less in the fog! Nice work! Thanks for the pics. The dyke looks rad. Gotta get up there.
climbski2

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Jun 18, 2015 - 12:05pm PT
So many fun climbs in 10 days.. you guys sure covered some territory picking off a lot of sweet pitches and views.

Wish more folks would take the time to write up these type of TRs... Great days climbing perfect granite in the high sierra.. does it get any better than this?
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Jun 18, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
Wow. You all been really busy. Awesome stuff!
Stevee B

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
  Jun 18, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
"Like" to what donini said. Thanks for the psych and inspiration!
looks easy from here

climber
Santa Cruzish
  Jun 18, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
You had me 'til the last pic. Michalob? Ewww.

Otherwise, looks like an awesome trip!
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jun 18, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
mmmmmm hmmmmmm. Choice granite tasty nugs!
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Jun 18, 2015 - 09:59pm PT
Good for you guys!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jun 19, 2015 - 07:05am PT
right on, that's a good use of one's time in the mtns!!!
Macronut

Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
  Jun 19, 2015 - 08:27am PT
Got done in one trip it takes me a a couple seasons. Nice work! Five star trip and TR.
fishtrap

Trad climber
Bass Lake, CA
  Jun 19, 2015 - 10:15pm PT
I've lived in the the SoYo area for 10 years and if I had to pick my top 5 easy/moderate climbs that I could climb over and over again, all four of those routes would likely make my list. Nicely done!
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