This is Peter Haan's climb was done in early 70th and I remember he mentioned on forum that climb is good and has short 10 min approach and never crowded. He and Jim Bridwell climbed it and than walked down via 5.6 chimney.
We parked at the cliffside unpaved turnout just after Parkline parking and just before prominent prow of rock which overhangs the road and looks like a head of crocodile. While we were racking up at the parking, big track park just behind us. Never seen anyone before on this turnout. I was sure it was my worst nightmare - other climbers going to run for Narrow Escape before us. So I probably was staring at the man at the wheel not very friendly until he exit from the car with fishing poles, ox, ha , now I can smile , and relax.
Approach was not 10 min, but more like 40 min, but after Balch Flake it is nothing. The route was looking very easy and short ( deceptively) and I can not believe it rated 10c. Is this a right climb? But it is -since Desperate Kneed was very recognizable and just left from it.
I had huge double rack of #4, #5 #6 and one VG9, but I can not see from the bottom of the climb where I can use any of those pieces. I think even VG#12 would be too small. Anyway I took 20 pounds of gear just in case ( weight training) and took off.
I was thinking I will be inside from the start most of the way, but in fact I was not able to place gear first 25 feet until I managed to get deep into chimney
Now I can see the climb better. It turned out that from the bottom you can not really see what you going to climb. When I get in- I placed my first piece, than I took helmet off and placed my second and third pieces, all tree one feet from each other. All of them was bomber, so with same effect you can go on this climb with just one #5. It is it, nothing more you can place. Than you have to go outside again and climb crux chiken-winging 10 feet until you get back into ever widening chimney for 40 feet. Climb is definitely harder than it looks. It is probably easier than 10c with my body size, but it is committing. It about 90 feet and with only one place where you can unload the pro.
On the upper sections you can place small gear in the flakes, but they probably not hold even small fall.
With a lot of lichen, no slings, and no bolts it felt like obscure climb despite you can see cars running hw 140 below.
And I like the name of the climb. You can get the name after you climb the route and if your chest width is 9 inch or bigger.
Chris squeeze In at around 7 inches - so "Narrow Escape" has no sense to her and felt like 5.8
Would I return there? I do not know. Probably to climb "A Desperate Kneed" which is looking good and where you can really use all your big gear.
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 just before the crux Credit: Alexey |
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 past the crux but still 45 feet to go into 5.8 chimney ( you can not see the rest of the route from the bottom) Credit: Alexey |
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Missing photo ID#329022
