Trip Report
New Lembert Dome route

by wstmrnclmr
Saturday September 6, 2014 2:27pm
A short trip report of a new route on Lembert........
So others may enjoy.

Logan (can't remember last name but posts once in a while and was on TM SAR) put this up. I don't know If I've got the name right but believe it's "Pollyanna". It's located between "j" (The cutting edge) and "h" (Booty and the beach) in the fourth edition Reid/Falkentein guide. The pic should help find the start
I rate it 5.9r and think that's what I saw on the hand drawn topo. .......A fun climb that is set up to rap off.

This pic will get you started up to 2nd pitch. The first is 5.7r to first pitch anchors. Some gear. Next pitch is primarily face with two or three bolts (can't remember) fairly well protected. Third has a heads up move before you get to first bolt. 5.8 move but if you blow you'll hit the belay ledge. The rest is fun and decently protected. Five bolts altogether. Rap off with two 60's all the way to first pitch belay then off.
top left corner top right corner
The first pitch with Brian Bennett rapping of first pitch anchors. Sh...
The first pitch with Brian Bennett rapping of first pitch anchors. Should be easy to locate from pic. Note small hummock near route hash marks.
Credit: wstmrnclmr
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
George Ridgley following third pitch.
George Ridgley following third pitch.
Credit: wstmrnclmr
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
George following third pitch with Brian at the belay.
George following third pitch with Brian at the belay.
Credit: wstmrnclmr
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Geaorge and Tony playing footsies at the top....
Geaorge and Tony playing footsies at the top....
Credit: wstmrnclmr
bottom left corner bottom right corner
Another nice little route if you've exhausted the climbs there.

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wstmrnclmr 		About the Author
wstmrnclmr is a trad climber from Bolinas, CA.

Comments
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Sep 6, 2014 - 05:22pm PT
thanks for the post on the route...

lots of stone out there
Greg Barnes

climber
  Sep 6, 2014 - 07:30pm PT
Think it's actually called Polly Ann, and it was rated 5.8. I have it in my notes at 5.8 R but I wouldn't disagree that a few moves on that steep last pitch may well be 5.9 - certainly kept my attention. Logan said you can get junk micro pro before the runout 5.8 move on that last pitch but it wouldn't hold (I didn't have any tiny gear, thought maybe a RP might work). FA Logan Talbot (not sure I have the spelling right), don't know his partner(s), and I think it was 2011.

And if you're at the base and you see a line of bolts heading up to the left, that's an excellent, sustained new 5.9/10a called Edgeumacated, FA Dan Lautzenheiser, Brian Bennett, August 2011. That one has 9 bolts but it's 170' and a number of cruxes are well above the bolts - also small gear can be used to make a "base" belay in a dish (from the ground it's maybe 220' to the anchors).
wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
Author's Reply  Sep 6, 2014 - 08:05pm PT
Greg! Hope your well in your new home.....Ya. Junk pro is right. Junk flake. So didn't bother. I think the topo was Logan's. Top of last pitch definitely harder then 5.8. Could be called the classic TM rating of 5.8+? But good pro there.
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Sep 6, 2014 - 11:22pm PT
Great to see George getting after it!

Thanks for the report!
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Sep 10, 2014 - 09:15am PT
The boys of summer - keeping Tuolumne R rated! (PG is good also you know...)

TFPU!
Logdog

climber
CA
  Sep 10, 2014 - 06:33pm PT
Hi everybody-
The route is named Polly Ann, We rated it 5.8, and I climbed it with Patrick Doherty. There are some runouts on it, so an R rating seems fine, although it is quite tame compared to many TM routes. You can rap with a single 70, if you swing to the right on the bottom rap. 3 pitches, 8 protections bolts, and two bolt anchors at all belays. Bring a single set to 2". It was named after Polly Ann, who was the steel driving wife of John Henry, who in turn is a steel drivin' folk hero from way back. (John Henry is also the name of a nearby route). I dug up the topo for it, although it's getting a little trashed. Cheers!

-Logan
msiddens

Trad climber
  Sep 10, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
Sweet route, sweet pair of aces too
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Sep 10, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
I don't understand...you mean, a post with Lembert Dome in that's actually about Lembert Dome? What's happening to ST??

Nice job, fellers...
wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
Author's Reply  Sep 10, 2014 - 09:36pm PT
Thanks Logan! Much better topo......so the crux is just after the second pitch belay to the first bolt......Nice route.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 12, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
Nice job!
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