Trip Report
No Call No Show FA Mt. Yukla
Wednesday November 23, 2011 8:14pm
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Josh Varney and I did this one in September. It was the first climbing I'd done since University Peak in April. We spent the first night at the base of the face and started predawn the next morning. Our line branches off of the North Couloir at about 2/3 height and tops out right at the summit.

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After third classing roughly 2,000 feet up the North Couloir we got to the base of our objective.

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We climbed a few pitches then chopped out a bivi ledge.

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The next day we climbed a dozen or so pitches to the summit and spent all night decending and walking back to the gear we left at the base.

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It took us about 44 hours round trip from the base, longer then we thought it would. Varney missed a day of work. That's where the name came from. I guess it goes at V AI5 M6.





  Trip Report Views: 2,341
johnkelley
About the Author
johnkelley is a climber from Anchorage Alaska.

Comments
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Nov 23, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
Thanks for your posts, John.
David Wilson

climber
CA
  Nov 23, 2011 - 08:27pm PT
john, your posts are really great to see. they almost fool me into thinking i'd enjoy alpine climbing again. keep them coming !
climbski2

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Nov 23, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
New line on Yukla! Grats! Not that many people get around to doing Yukla at all.

Any chance of a pic with the full line drawn over it?
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
  Nov 24, 2011 - 01:12am PT
Fantastic pix. Thanks.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 24, 2011 - 11:34am PT
Awesome again! You guys have too much fun, me jealous!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 24, 2011 - 11:39am PT
Nicely done, looks classic!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 25, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
Way to go, looks like one Bad AZZ FA!!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Nov 25, 2011 - 08:06pm PT
Maybe I should know, but where is Mount Yukla?

It doesn't seem at all Yukky.
climbski2

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Nov 25, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
Near Anchorage Alaska, Eagle River Valley.

Chugach mountain range. Mostly lower altitude peaks per se. 7k being pretty big there. However the bases generally start near sea level. So several of them have faces comparable to the Tetons just not as good rock unfortunately.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 25, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
If you put up multiple 3500ft routes that look like that one this september you are on bad *** dude cause that thing looks sick.

Why do you care about the roadcut on the highway so much. Certainly everyone isn't going to climb that thing.
Looks like you are putting up some bad ass climbs up there. Really good to see some new climbing content on this site. Was this route mostly ice? Looks bad ass. I only wish they had routes like that down here.
Stewart Johnson

Gym climber
top lake
  Nov 25, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
very nice!
Stewart Johnson

Gym climber
top lake
  Nov 25, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 29, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
Eagle River Bump!!!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Nov 29, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
Somebody help me out here: what kind of temps am I looking at in those pics? Can't be as cold as it looks in these pics, because who wants that kind of suffering?

Alpinists: sick bastards, twisted souls, missing fear and temperature genes. RESPECT TO YOU CRAZY MF'ERS.
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Nov 29, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
More of the real deal. That rock section looks...interesting.
Murzerker

climber
Away from Walhalla
  Nov 29, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
That pic of you kneeling on that bivy ledge pretty much sums it up...OMG I'm sooo cold.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Nov 29, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
That's Josh. I should go back and change all the photo credits to Josh Varney. My camera broke on University and I never replaced it.
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