Trip Report
North Peak Couloir scouting pictures
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Monday September 5, 2016 9:27am
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This is a quick report of ice conditions on the North Peak couloir (right). I was hiking in the "20 Lakes Basin" over the week-end and decided to hike up the couloir's approach to investigate the ice condition as I will be climbing it in a month.
I didn't get a chance to touch the ice, only took pictures. So judge by yourself, and please leave comments with your impressions if you've been on this ice before.
And now zoomed in pics from top to bottom:
Quick look at the left most couloir:
Parting pictures ;)
sleparc
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About the Author
sleparc is a trad climber from San Carlos. |
Comments
Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Climb it now before it's gone! I did that once in full-on bare ice conditions and found it a bit tedious. A little bit of step kicking and/or hard neve, if possible, would be nice. My favorite time of year to do Mendel is in late June when the lower angled stuff is still snow/neve and the steep part is bare ice--best of both worlds.
BAd
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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There's actually more snow and ice than I was expecting, given what I saw last year. It's probably too late for much in the way of frozen neve now, though.
John
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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There is a lot less snow/ice in the right couloir than when I climbed it. That snow is probably neve. The left couloir looks like a possible death trap.
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sleparc
Trad climber
San Carlos
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Author's Reply
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Sep 6, 2016 - 05:44pm PT
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10b4me: Yeah, I'm hoping these patches of snow/neve transform into ice in the next 30 days. What are your thoughts on that?
I am also thinking there might be ice underneath that white stuff. I am not sure how the process of snow to neve to ice transformation works... Does it the ice progress (transforms) from inside-out or outside-in?
Not sure how I will protect the climb if it's neve and not ice...
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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That neve needs to melt, and refreeze You need melt water to form ice.
It hasn't snowed since last winter so I doubt that there is ice underneath.
When I climbed the right couloir it was in mid October, several years ago.
The problem, in recent years, is that the warm temps have tended to melt the snow, or ice.
Hope it goes for you. Good luck, and be safe.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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For a comparison to conditions around now before the meltout, after a normal winter:
Sept 27, 2010
:-(
BTW, for those wondering about the U-Notch & V-Notch, or Sill:
Sept. 3, 2016
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Stewart Johnson
Gym climber
top lake
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Looks way better than last year this time
The snow is rock hard if you make it there
Before 10 am
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Go up there about four days after a full moon. That way a good size moon will still be up as the first light from the sun starts. Plan your start time (3 or 4 AM?) so your on the upper section in the early morning light.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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I don't recall seeing the L-shaped couloir with so little snow.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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More of an ellipsis-shaped snowfield now ...
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sleparc
Trad climber
San Carlos
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Author's Reply
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Sep 6, 2016 - 10:31pm PT
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Looking at the temperatures right now and it is 50 at night and next week around 40... These temps are for Tuolumne Meadows of course, but still quite warm. Would you say it's too warm to get solid ice screw the ice?
Also, any tips on protecting the neve sections (especially the upper part)?
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Tadman
Mountain climber
CA
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If you have a bit of alpine ice experience, you really don't need pro. This was the second couloir that i had climbed. I had just got done watching Jeff Lowe's VHS tape on climbing alpine ice. Was totally fired up! I used a combo of screws and pickets to bring my second up. I have been on the right hand couloir a few times. The first two times there was a snow bridge leading directly from the apron to the couloir. The last time i went up I was glad I went with a climber that was really comfortable on ice. No bridge...I bit of a challenge at the start. If you are going to protect this climb, 4 screws, a couple of pickets, some runners, 6 quickdraws. I have used both alpine axes (old Charlet Moser alpine axes) and bent shaft Black Prophets. I preferred the latter.
Have fun,
Tad
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 11, 2016 - 12:09am PT
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A friend of mine just did it. Sounds like the conditions are fine, with 150 ft or so of neve up at the top.
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sleparc
Trad climber
San Carlos
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Author's Reply
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Sep 13, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
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Thanks for the update @nanobody! Great post.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Sep 13, 2016 - 01:24pm PT
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Probably getting some snow today.
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Stewart Johnson
Gym climber
top lake
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Sep 15, 2016 - 01:46pm PT
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Aye it's in good nick this morning
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Sep 24, 2016 - 04:19pm PT
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That is a great shot of Mt. Sill above. Hard to believe that the Swiss Arete is only 5.5 from that shot, and if anything, it is barely that.
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The Northeast Couloir of North Peak. Photo: Dan Mingori
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