Trip Report
Offwidth Bouldering Overview (Montana's Boulder Batholith)
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Wednesday June 10, 2009 3:03pm
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TKingsbury
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About the Author
TKingsbury is a trad climber from MT. |
Comments
P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Jun 10, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
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Cool!
need to get back on the fruwidth....
where's the wormhole? i figured out the other two....
cheers,
patrick
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Jun 10, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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Thanks bro!
The Wormhole
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jun 10, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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Good job putting those together--I need to re-visit some of those and get revenge on them for making me bleed.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Jun 10, 2009 - 05:57pm PT
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Thanks Moj! I agree...some must be returned to...
Inside Straight(proj)
edit:
I also forgot about Ringing Roof
Not sure where I'd put that one on the list...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 10, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
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Fantastico! You guys are nuts in a really good way. You should have given the guy laybacking the wide crack penalty slack, but I guess he would have to be on a rope for that to happen.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Jun 10, 2009 - 09:38pm PT
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haha! Thanks Jim! We we're trying to jam that one, but laying it back worked out much faster...
you still coming up for a tour?
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jun 10, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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No penalty slack in bouldering, Jim--just spotters taking a "safety" break when you're cruxin':-)
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Jingy
climber
Random Nobody
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Jun 10, 2009 - 09:55pm PT
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TKing - now.. some of those pics are just plain showin' off!!!
Good, clean, wholesome family fun...
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nb3000
Social climber
Bay Area
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Jun 12, 2009 - 12:16pm PT
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bump for wide luv
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Jun 12, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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Hey, thanks for the bump!
I forgot this one too
-Sally
In the Benchlands, hands to wide...I think Pat gave this one a .9+...
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Jun 12, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
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Forgot about this one too...though it might be classified as a squeeze chimney problem...
-The Breather
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
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On my way .I'll be there Sat.morn.Might stop at Lolo.Are there cracks there?Where are the easiest cracks to find for starters?I got Toulas Rocknroad.Is that any help?
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Jul 30, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
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I'm confused...everyone knows there's no climbing in Montana.
The media have their cameras ready for you down by the Citadel in the Voo for Saturday.
Please advise.
Gisele says Hello!
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Jingy
climber
Random Nobody
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Jul 30, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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It's back...
Cool.. more pics!!!!
Still say it's showing off, but man that looks really cool!
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posafred
Boulder climber
Mariposa, CA
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Jul 30, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
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Those are some awesome problems!!!!!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jul 31, 2009 - 12:00am PT
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Dick, since Tom left already for the Beartooths, I feel responsible for helping you find cracks/stone. If you can e-mail me your best-guess at a time schedule, I'll set you up with some Google Earth maps and beta to help you along. Lolo has fine boulders, but not much for cracks. The locals there have found plenty of pebbles, and I could put you in contact with them if you'd like.
Again, e-mail me with some time frame you'd like to play in out here, and I'll do my best. I'm bummed to be not out climbing with you, but family first sometimes, eh?
My ST e-addy is good.
edit: we leave Sat. morning, so I'll have time get you the beta to help you along
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Jul 31, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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Hi Gisele.Miss you.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 31, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
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So Dick, Are you going to make it to Vedauwoo later in August?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jul 31, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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sometimes on the grimmer projects,
i'll rap in an pre-place some gear.
for the fist-to-off width cracks, a 12 oz can of pabst (end-to-end big-bro style) just after the crux.
for the tad-wider off width, i'll use a tall boy.
just after the crux too.
cheers.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Aug 5, 2009 - 11:58am PT
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You still in the Boulder Batholith Dick?
There's talk of getting out there this weekend...unfortunately this working stiff is a weekend warrior...hit us up though!
Hopefully you're out exploring and pulling...and hopefully taking some pictures!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Afternoon bump for Mr. Cilley:
Have pads, will travel...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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awesome, as usual, Tom
That topout of Grindhouse looks heinous too!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Man I've gotta get my butt out of cali some time and check out this stuff. Looks uber classic wide!
kev
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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I'm In the Batholith and loving it.But the weather is looking bad.Might bop down to Wyo.The Woo is a very distant possibility.No time.I saw the wormhole.Is that the standard descent?This place is a real world class bouldering destination. Especialy for cracks.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Aug 6, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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Right on! I'm glad you're enjoying the area!
I think there's a down climb/walk off on that thing...I know that the hand crack around the left corner was done, and there wasn't any problems getting down that I remember...but my memory is bad for that zone.
If you do stick around until the weekend, we're planning on Saturday...it'd be fun to link up!
EDIT: kev, blue et all: Y'all are always welcome out here! Come on out!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Dick, if you want some company, give me a call--I e-mailed you my phone numbers, the cell would be the better one to use. Directions, pads, spotting can be yours; but, I realize how much fun it is to explore and just climb the cracks alone:-)
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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TK,
Right on. If you're ever out this way let me know and I'll hook you up with a SoYo tour.
kev
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Aug 6, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
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Heading here on Saturday...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Mr. Cilley found me in Butte, and we made a plan to rope up the next day. A baby sitter was secured, we proceeded to Spire Rock to hit some classic cracks. Dwight Bishop would have been proud of Dick's accomplishments on the sharp-end that day.
Here's the lone photo of the day, our traveling guest smiling on top
Tongue and Groove (5.11)*** You can either climb up the unprotected face to the crack above or traverse in from the right side. FA Dwight Bishop, 1987.
This was prolly the second finest outing on this route, with only the first to compare to. I couldn't pull the bottom seam/face section, and Dick got a good cam in before completing the clean lead.
Sussing jams on the uber-project
OW FA
Pat Kings seconding another Cilley OW first.
More to follow as the week progresses.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Aug 10, 2009 - 10:52am PT
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KICK ASS!!!!!!
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Aug 11, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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Greetings from the next big thing Butte Mon.Where you can buy a house for 7,500 dollars.Just had breakfast at the Northstar Diner.My regular crowd(Fish ,Sooze,Jbro,and a long etc.) would love it .The rest of you would come along just to rub shoulders with us.Ready now to roam the hills searching out the best cracks.Yesterday I went out with Mojede to do the probable second ascent (Pictured above)of the Dockens Roof.What a beauty.It gets OW points for pump.Don't know why this place isn't crawling with climbers.Oh well.More pie for us.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 11, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
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Cilley in a Beaney? Oh the horror.
How are the job prospects for Sped teachers, up there?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 11, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
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Too cool!
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Aug 11, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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It was spicy.More like a little crazy.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Aug 11, 2009 - 02:02pm PT
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What kind of pie?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Author's Reply
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Aug 11, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
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Honed in moves for sure though
I must say that an endorsement from Mr. Cilley is pretty rad. Nice to hear that our backwaters playground stands up with some of the better areas in the world...It was also rad to have someone new out here to check out and try some problems!
Cilley on the Dockins Roof (Mojede photos)...though I have to say that I thought Bill said he climbed the left/outside crack rather than the center line...I could be wrong though...but a FA perhaps...
and pushing the highpoint on the corner proj, NICE!
EDIT:
Hutch and Cilley also found this thing...y'all going back for it?! Looks SICK!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Aug 11, 2009 - 06:07pm PT
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Some more of Cilley's exploits in the Batholith:
Balancing arete climbs
Highball handcracks
Technical knob pulling
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Aug 11, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
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Nice!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 17, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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Great TR and posts that follow.
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