Trip Report
Omi Tso Go
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Thursday February 8, 2018 1:26am
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Couldn’t quite make the summit. Bailed off 150 meters below the top in super strong winds. Ended up having to wait around six hours for the wind to let up. It was blowing so hard I was having difficulty standing up. Maybe I’ll try again sometime?
johnkelley
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About the Author
johnkelley is a climber from Anchorage Alaska. |
Comments
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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With the utmost respect WOEwA!! Dang that is a serious trip.Thnx for sharing this.
Sir,I looked for it on Google, Are these pix of the peak?I know,your opinion of me. In a perfect world I'd have fallen off the planet, I'm glad to see you have not, also Come on gang show some respect what? No one but me can muster a "Well Done"
or how about you with legs left, Go -get on it- and go help get it done?
again, for my past infractions,
my apologies to you John.
if any one missed it 2 years ago I called out Jim Beyer, and John took me apart for it. Im still the same as#@&%e that it takes to climb and tell what i think, regardless of what anyone else has to say, I have the most respect for those who are getting after it, Mike M ? You seeing this?
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Feb 8, 2018 - 04:18am PT
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Yeah same peak but way less snow. That photo’s has to be from early post monsoon season. It’s the pointy summit to the right of Khang Nuchago (sp?) in the second photo.
Thanks for the apologies too. I’d pretty much forgotten about it
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Feb 8, 2018 - 04:20am PT
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I’ve seen it already but thanks anyway
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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John, That is a remarkably burly effort. Winds that strong must be experienced to be truly appreciated; I'm glad you returned safely from that.
Best of luck on your future endeavors.
cheers
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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More of your special kind of fun eh?
How about a picture of the route.
Thanks for the post.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Feb 8, 2018 - 06:21am PT
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I followed the 2 km long ridge, around 5,500’ of vertical gain, that starts at the lower left hand side of the photo.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Beautiful looking line!
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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John way to keep at it! What was the overall rock quality on that ridge? the bigger scale photo makes it seem pretty choosy-or is it held together by the cold?
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Nice looking line John, so direct. Thanks for adding the big pic.
did you descend the same?
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Very cool looking route! Am glad you did not blow off.
Thanks very much for posting your adventures!
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Nice safe looking line John. Thanks.
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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Tfpu! cool line!
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nah000
climber
now/here
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sweet. thanks!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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On a whole nother level, thanks for sharing!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Keep on pushing the envelope!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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I like that pic from the base of the ascending little ridge, shooting curvilinear skyward. the dimensions are astounding. TFPU!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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I love reading about anything Rolwaling - the most beautiful place in the world. I just had lunch in Boulder with one of the Sherpas in the 3 Sherpas, 3 oeaks, 3 days first ascents up there.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Feb 8, 2018 - 07:25pm PT
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I sure could use a climbing partner... you can get here round trip for under $800. Anyone?
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looks easy from here
climber
Santa Cruzish
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More like Omi Tso Doesn't Go, amirite?
Buh-dum-tsh.
Sorry, couldn't help my self. Hell of a rock. Thanks for the tr.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Dude. Nice effort. What a wild line and a stellar location. Nice effort on getting up high and getting down safely. I dig your action selfies..........if you're soloing a lot you should consider a Go-Pro in "camera" mode for your selfies. The wide angle is way cool because it shows a lot more of the mountain around and below you when only an arms length away. Also, they are small and pretty indestructible.
Thanks for posting up. Love seeing your adventures!
Scott
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brotherbbock
climber
So-Cal
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Bad ass man!
Those winds must have been gnar!!!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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It gets funky when you are holding side clings to keep from getting blown away!
You need to make your outfit more aerodynamic, like those speed skaters. Except you would be stuffed with puffy insulation then shrink-wrapped in a slippery layer.
Getting back safely is more important than getting to the top.... I'd rather see pics from you after you get back, than read about a body blown off the face and recovered a decade later somewhere else.
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jgfox
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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I sure could use a climbing partner... you can get here round trip for under $800. Anyone?
How much are your expedition costs with permit, porters, local "guide", etc?
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Feb 12, 2018 - 09:13am PT
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In case you're interested, Omi Tso Go in Sherpa means Milk Lake Door.
The lake is milky because of the glacial sediment and the peak is considered a door to the lake as it shows where the pass from the Tibetan valley to the north is, for pilgrims visiting the lake. The lake itself is thought to contain the soul of the goddess Tseringma (long life mother) who resides on a mountain of the same name, known to the outside world as Gaurishankar (7,134 m). Tseringma is the elder sister of Miyolangsangma, the goddess who lives on Everest.
It is said that advanced meditators can see the future by looking into the lake.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Feb 11, 2018 - 11:05pm PT
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It means milk, lake, head in Sherpa
Omi-milk
Tso-lake
Go-head
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Feb 11, 2018 - 11:09pm PT
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Go means either head or door. (Probably there is a slight tonal difference between the two that neither one of us can hear). I'll ask around again to see what is the preferred usage. Sometimes it changes over time too.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Feb 11, 2018 - 11:42pm PT
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Also the spelling Tsho is usually used to signify a body of water. Same meaning though. For a summit, Omi Tso Go for example, Go would mean head. It’s used to describe the head, the high point.
Omi Tso Go is the milk, lake, head that watches over Omi Tsho.
Both my Nepalese and Sherpa are pretty good. I’m fluent on about a 3rd grade level...
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Feb 12, 2018 - 12:09am PT
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It also depends on who you ask. It’s common for people from the same village to disagree on the definition of the same word. I was told several different stories about what Omi Tso Go meant. The description above was the most common explanation but there were others as well
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Feb 12, 2018 - 04:49am PT
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You got the sickness!!!!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Feb 12, 2018 - 09:08am PT
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Congratulations John on learning some Sherpa! It is the hardest language I've ever struggled with. So many homonyms with slightly different tones and a really different grammar. Many is the time I thought I said something correctly and suddenly the room burst out in laughter and that carried on until tears were rolling down their faces. Meanwhile I had no clue what I had said that was so entertaining.
Nepali is easier but not when they do the usual modern trick among the young, which is to mix the two languages in the same sentence. Talk about making your brain fry, at least mine.
I had to laugh at lunch the other day when a long story was being told and the listener was indicating that he was following by repeating over and over, the simple mixed phrase of "Ek dam lase la, ek dam lase la".
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Feb 12, 2018 - 09:28am PT
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One more thing. The February issue of The Alpinist will have an article by a Rolwaling friend of mine that I helped ghost write. It's titled, "From Rolwaling to Denali". It talks about the old time Rolwaling when there were still many people there, so you might find it interesting.
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Let us know!
lodging (tea house) for a night are $15-$20 I also pay for the porters lodging/food which is usually not required