Trip Report
Our First First Ascent! Its kind of a big deal.
Thursday July 26, 2012 8:06pm
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Macronut and I finally got the skunk off the boat. We got the monkey off our back and the fly out of our ointment. We stopped climbing other peoples stuff and entered the hallowed realm of first ascentionists. We will become rich and famous. Our peers will revere us. Internet hoards will "like" us and we'll probably get sponsors.
Last Saturday.
Wishon Reservoir.
Below the dam
Group campground behind a locked gate.
Father Son Church Campout.
"Yeah....we brought the climbing gear honey...you know....the little kids might want to toprope or something..."
We spied this juicy crack 25 yards from tent city, beggin' to be FA'd. It was covered in moss and lichen and had the Nut Brothers name written all over it.
The kids were thicker than skeeters' at the base.
"Go on! Git! Me and Macronut got reel climbin' to do boys!"
Macronut established on terra incognita.
12 feet into new terrain. Crushin it.
Manky licheny mossy feet lead to strong liebacking and a full belly forearm jam.
With the unknown lurking above, Macronut breathes hard, bears down, and keeps his schtuff together. He now knows what Hillary felt like approaching the Step. He is Harding below the great roof.
A steep, crimp to jugs with dangly feet hero topout leads through the intimdating roof protected by a bomber purple tcu.
He powers to the top, fearless, compelled by the desire to sink his teeth into untouched stone. In a flash, its over. Victory is ours. We have tamed the savage mountain. Slayed the silvery beast. We straight suckapunched that new route yo.
Respect.
I get my FA on and meet him on the top in perfect style....one hang when I got pumped retrieving that purple tcu.
The route is 70 feet. At least 5.9. Probably gonna be a trade route. I hurried home and posted this as soon as possible. I'm thinking about getting a tattoo to immortalize the occasion. I sprayed about it at the gym and on Facebook and would Teet about it if I had a Twitter account. I called my mom. She wasn't impressed. I'm trying to get ahold of the guidebook authors. Anybody have phone numbers for Moser, Vernon, Slater, Haymond, Kroll or the guys on Rock climbing.com? I'm in the process of getting a summitpost.com account. I hope this TR gets 3000 hits and that Chris Mac makes a Supertopo Select. Man, we are gonna be so cool. This is a changing point in my life. I can feel it. Thanks for checking it out.
We're open to route neames if anybody has any killer ideas.
(Actually, all kidding aside, it was really fun to find a line and climb it, probably for the first time. Makes us want some more. Look out Fred Beckey, the summer is still young.)
micronut
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About the Author micronut is a trad climber from fresno, ca. |
Comments
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 26, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
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no name yet???
Just make sure and be original.
Becky Route
Direct North Face
Dogleg
Nut Brothers Crack
Congrats, looks fun!
It's a good feeling, huh?!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Jul 26, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
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Fun TR!
A first ascent on a crack climb in front of an audience no less.
Congratulations!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Jul 26, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
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An entertaining right up as always haha. WOOP WOOP FA GLORY!!!
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LuckyNeck
Trad climber
the basement of Lou's Tavern
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Jul 26, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
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Glorious... hey, in fact:
Routename = Glorytown.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 26, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
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Nut Brothers' excellent route, woote!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jul 26, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
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Way to SHRED THE GNAR!!!!!!!!
Maybe name it "Gnarly nuts" ????
TFPU Nutties!
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tamberly
Trad climber
san diego
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Jul 26, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
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you have the name...you used the words...terra incongnito (just after your first picture)! Congrats!
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Jul 26, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
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Sweet. I am always looking for first ascents
For a name: "nuts to you"
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jul 26, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
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Looks nice!
Dude! What do you want to call it?
Sweet! What do you want to call it?
Dude! What...
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Loomis
climber
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Jul 26, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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Sorry Bro's, I don't want to rain on anyone's parade here, but Robert Parker, Melinda Scheid and I did that thing late April 1989.
Good job anyway, cool area to explore and plenty of new stuff around :)
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 26, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
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Ho man! Too funny! It would have been even funnier if Micronut got a tattoo for the "F.A." of a route that had already been climbed before. I kind of thought that must have been climbed before but Loomis knows what he's talking about.
Keep at it lads! There's lots of rock up in them that hills.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 26, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
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Well, i guess that's the beauty of clean climbing- preserving the FA feeling for future ascents.
Bravo!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Jul 26, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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Simply freaking impressive!
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jul 26, 2012 - 10:23pm PT
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Bitchen'....looks fun and treat em all like FAs
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 26, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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you guys do know about testing flakes and blocks before pulling on them, right?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Jul 26, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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behind a locked gate.
Father Son Church Campout.
Thou hast trampled the Lord's route(s). Thou shalt be stoned.
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Zander
climber
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Jul 26, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
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Sweet!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jul 26, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
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excellent report. Keep up the epic work boys.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 26, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
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Funny!!!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 26, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
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climbed that back in 92'.
(just kidding) Fun looking route.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Jul 26, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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As I recall these guys also did the first ascent of a route that earlier became known as Royal Arches.
Truly
My heros!!
Love your TRS always
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jul 26, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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nicely done!
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Rankin
Social climber
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:23am PT
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Save some glory for some of us will ya?! Haha. Great job!
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skywalker
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:43am PT
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Just read a 5th story to my daughter, awful hot here. We read "bubble trouble". Her and I call police/ ambulance/ fire engine lights/ sirens "trouble bubbles".
Nice Job!
Name?
Double Trouble?
TFPU!
S...
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:32am PT
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Don't let the suckers in the Alpinist post this. This route is too bad ass for that mag yo!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:47am PT
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Love the Nut Brothers threads, as always.
On topic, slightly irreverent and fully fun.
Thanks yet again.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:47am PT
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Nice write up Scott!
25 yards from tent city
When I read this, I had a feeling it was going to be too good to be true.
Whatever tho, like I already mentioned Scott, lets talk soon so we can start planning. While that crack looks fun, it's kiddy stuff compared to what I have my eyes set on. ;)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:59am PT
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add it to to the limited Wishon info that's floating around. I need stuff to climb next time I'm there. ;)
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Author's Reply
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:55am PT
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Loomis. Really man? Oh the horror. The irony. You just ruined my day. Real cool man. I'm gonna delete this thread before Adam reads it. It will break his heart man. Is that what you wanted?
Look what you've done.
He's gonna take it hard.
I hope he is cool with the FOPASA. First Online Post And Spray Ascent. Its good enough for me. What do yall think? Should we believe Loomis or Micronut? I'll put this in the hands of the people. Shall we believe Loomis on his word or give me the glory because I posted online first? Its 2012 brah. It doesnt count until its on Facebook. 1989 you say? You got photos?
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cowpoke
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:14am PT
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Oh man, fabulous! I keep cracking up imagining what the other dads thought of you two.
Micronut, you should just have a regular column here. You do such a terrific job of capturing the humor in "Everyman" climbing experiences...not that Everyman gets an FA...or even better, gets to quarrel about whether they got the FA!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 27, 2012 - 09:49am PT
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I say FOPASA......who knows what happened in 1989;......that was so long ago;....with earthquakes, lichen, moss, and global warming;...it's a different climb now anyways.....and Loomis has climbed so much;......all the climbs start to look alike.....FOPASA is where it's at......shine on with the first ascent in recient history;....who knows what went on in the 1980s back when dinosaurs roamed the earth.....and if Loomis don't come up with a name for the climb....well;.....go for it.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jul 27, 2012 - 10:40am PT
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Love, Love, Love your TRs man, always a rad read.
route name "FOPASA". (that's funny chit)
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Jul 27, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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I agree with Cowpoke, Scott should have a regular column here!
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Barbarian
Trad climber
Being held captive behind the Orange Curtain
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Jul 27, 2012 - 11:46am PT
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Quick! Send me a topo of this new route. I've got dibs on the second. I don't have a pruple TCU.....should I put a bolt there to protect others who don't have one. If it's gonna be a trade route, we need to remove all the risk.
Nice FA and TR. Thanks for posting....good amusement on a Friday!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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I believe you climbed Haight Girls 5.9 on the Powerhouse wall. Loomis would know if this is correct. Even though you didn't get an FA, maybe now you got the FA bug. Great feeling, get you some.
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Loomis
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
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this just in: No, this is the stuff below the dam, near the "King snake" wall. Sort of looks like Haight girls though ;)
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
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At least I was right that Lommis would know, haha. Thanks for all your routes Loomis.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
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Good going you guys, I'd call it "Nutty Buddies."
At the very least it's the FRA...First Recorded Ascent.
What Gordo said. You never know about someone's (SL)memory.He's probably confusing it with something else. Let's see photos.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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Scott,
If I see one of your TR's, I read it before I read anything else -- and you never disappoint. Needless to say, this was no exception.
Add me to the list of those that would love to have a regular column from you here, but I'll settle for regular trip reports. Maybe "settle" is the wrong word. "Gratefully read" hits closer to home.
Thanks, as always.
John
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Loomis
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
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Melinda suggested the name "Wishon upon a star" so we kept it that way.
But Todd is onto something here, I like this FOPASA thing too.
After all, we are in America.
How does it go? Bury the past and make it his-story, rather than history?
Yeah, I think that's it ;)
Now, let's get back to putting up new routes. Have a great weekend dudes!
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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Excellent style! Way to go, guys!
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Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
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Oh man, my mouth went dry just reading about this intimidating new ascent. All through it I was worried you would run out of pro or climbing cliches before you reached safety.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Author's Reply
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
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Ropeboy,
I've run out of gear before, but never cliches.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
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"Never let the truth get in the way of a good story."
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Loomis
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
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dee ee: Good quote! :))
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Jul 27, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
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Inspiring! Got me off the couch and out for a run. Hopefully I too can add a significant FA to the annals of climbing history someday.
TFPU!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jul 27, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
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The game is over boys and girls!
The nut boys have officially been infected with the FA bug.
Nothing is sacred.
Burn the secret topos.
Guard well the rumors.
All that is virgin and vertical in the vast Sierra will be gone by winter.
They will stop at nothing.
Day AND night.
Kids in tow.
Mullets a-blazin'.
Cameras snapping from all angles.
Live video feeds pumped thru every conceivable channel - the web, mobile devices, television...
The Olympics will be interrupted.
The end is near.
Move to remote Papua New Guinea, Antarctica, Mars, before they do...
before it's too late.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 27, 2012 - 07:23pm PT
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Scott, anyone, know who I quoted?
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Loomis
climber
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Jul 28, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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dee ee: The quote comes from Samuel Langhorne Clemens AKA Mark Twain ;)
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Republic, WA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 04:59am PT
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Swell. You are one funny son of nut. Right or left nut?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:51am PT
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Guess you're gonna have to walk further than 25 yards from the campground for the true glory. Viva bad beta! keeps us on our toes.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 30, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
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Hmmm, now you guys have got me wondering, I thought it was Largo!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Author's Reply
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Jul 30, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
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Nate,
You're killin me. Thats funny stuff man. You need to write more TRs.
Dee, No, I have no clue. SOunds Brittish. Whillans maybe?
Loomis, It was fun chatting on the phone. For the record, I'll deny our phone conversation in a court of law and I'm sticking to my story that this is my line and Adam's FA unless you show a photo. And it better have lycra in it to prove its authenticity.
Moosedrool, nice work!
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Jul 30, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
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Congratulations on this unmistakable grand first ascent.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 30, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
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It's all been done before . . . just enjoy it anyway.
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allanc
climber
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Jul 31, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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We were camping somewhere with the kids (I can't remember where),
and several of us gym climbers saw this cool overhung boulder
while walking to our tent.
There was some graffiti and trashy mattresses (not the most aestethic
route) that some homeless people were sleeping on at the base, but I
think we'll go back and make the first ascent. It looks like about
5.9. Put one bolt in under the roof, and another 2 right over.
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