Overhang Bypass 5.7, 6 pitches, 3 stars, FA: Bill Dunmire, Ed Robbins, Bill Long, & Dick Long - June, 1952
From the 1964 Roper guide: ‘one of the most popular routes on the south side of the Valley’
Karl Baba: ‘the approach sucks, the descent is long, and the actual climbing isn't too good either - still, it gets points for being a trad adventure, having a real summit, and old school bonus points to boot.’
John Eleazarian: ‘scenic, enjoyable, and mostly easy’
Werner: ‘a junk yard’ and ‘a pile’
Brokedownclimber: ‘the godawful gunsight’ descent
MP beta: ‘a flake broke off, and the crux is closer to 5.9 now’ and ‘Route finding can be an issue’
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 Credit: Yosemike |
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1952 FA? Old School? Long approach/descent? Route finding crux? a missing flake and 5.9 move? Hmmm – I’ve got to check this thing out - but I’ve got to find just the right partner…
Who else but my old school buddy Todd from Reno – King of route finding (and also runout slab).
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 Where is the route? Credit: Ed H |
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Approx location of route as seen from the road:
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 Credit: Yosemite + Ed |
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Le Bruce beta:
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 Credit: Le Bruce |
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Too much gear!
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 Credit: Ed H |
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This way to the start
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Let the gully scramble begin
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 Credit: Ed H |
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More scrambling
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Bridalveil views
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 Credit: Ed H |
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More scrambling but getting close
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Bridalveil rainbow mist
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 Credit: Ed H |
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More scrambling - when you start seeing rap stations you are getting close..
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Finally! the start of the route, or P2 in Reid guide. It's a very striking feature.
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Todd on the way to the hog trough
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Old school hardware
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Overhang feature - wowza!
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Looking up at the hog trough
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Looking back at the trough - exposure!
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 Credit: Ed H |
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I love climbing in approach shoes..
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 Credit: Ed H |
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The missing flake. Yes - it's probably 5.9, but you have a small wire at your chest, and a piton about 5 feet to the right. I did a lie back, then got a C3 up higher to sew it up. I think you could also go up the flake on the right, but the pro did not look as good.
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Moving the belay across the ledge
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 Credit: Ed H |
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The face pitch was fun and wandered a bit. Full Yosemite 5.7 value.
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 Credit: Ed H |
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The views of El Cap remind you why you come to the Valley - even on Memorial Day weekend.
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 Credit: Ed H |
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We finished on the exposed 5.6 traverse variation. Looking back at this gem:
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Topping out
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 Credit: Ed H |
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I've never seen Leaning Tower from this angle
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 Credit: Ed H |
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On to the gunsight - Ha! What a gem this little gully is
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 Credit: Ed H |
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MCR
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Enter the gunsight
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Yosemite 4th class. '
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Munge rap station - love it!
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 Credit: Ed H |
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Views from the gunsight
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 Credit: Ed H |
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8 hours car to car at a leisurely pace, and back in time to watch the sunset.
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 Credit: Ed H |
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I really enjoyed the route, and would recommend it for anyone looking for a moderate, adventure route.
More info:
MP: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/overhang-bypass/106669076
ST: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/542987/Overhang-Bypass-TR-fall-2006
ST: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2126938/Overhang-Route-4-27-2013-TR
ST: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/579217/Not-the-Midget-Chimney-Photo-TR
Accident report http://www.howardreplogle.com/essays/climbingacident/caccident.htm
