I've been looking at this route for many years and finally collected enough courage try it. Split Mt. being my final unbagged CA 14-er helped the decision process. This route has a reputation for being loose. It is known as a route that Fred Beckey bailed from during the first ascent. Once Fred bailed, his partner Galen Rowell continued to the summit solo. This certainly added to the mystery and excitement. We studied the existing beta in several guidebooks and found it to be vague at best. As we discovered later, most of it was bogus.
On July 4th, my climbing partner Pavel and I, accompanied by our significant others, travelled to Red Lake via a sweaty and unpleasant trail. Fortunately, the approach was not too long; it got old fast.
We started our adventure at 4am on July 5th.
Looking down towards Red Lake and Owens Valley from the approach to the mountain
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Alpenglow on the eastern flanks of Split Mt. We climbed the pointy buttress (2nd from the left). Here you can see approximately 1/3rd of the route (5 pitches)
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This is how the first third of the route goes
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At the 1st pitch belay. Above is the beginning of the 2nd pitch, the most loose pitch of the route. Don't get discouraged here, it gets better.
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Looking down the squeeze chimney on pitch 5. Supposedly, this is one of the cruxes of the route (5.8). We found it to be no harder than 5.7 if you stem around the chimney near the top.
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The real business was on pitch 6. It features some of the cleanest rock on this route but also has several 5.9-5.10 moves. It is the most obvious way to gain the arete. Not clear if there is an easier way around it but I spotted a ledge on the right side of the ridge that may offer a better passage. Sorry, no photos of it.
At last, we are on the arete proper. Three moderate pitches (p7-9) lead to the base of steep gendarmes that can be climbed on their left side.
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Lookin back at p7. Awesome!!
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Wicked formations on the ridge, around p8
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Topping out on the wild and exposed p10 (~5.8, some loose rocks). On the right side, you can see what's left of East Couloir
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We had to do a 80' rap from the top of p11.
Looking down on p6-12 from near the top.
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A few moderate pitches led us to the top at 6:30pm!
Loooking south from the main summit of Split Mt.
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After spending a few minutes on the summit, we descended the regular route (North slope). Awful descent, especially if you have to do it in the dark. Reached camp at Red Lake at 11pm, thoroughly wasted. In retrospect, it was fun, only different.
Stats/info:
Northeast Arete of Split Mountain (also known as East Arete of North Summit)
FA: Galen Rowell, October 1976
Elevation: 14,058'
Rating: depending on the guidebook, it is either III or IV, 5.8. We call our way IV, 5.10
Length: 15 pitches (150'+) with one rappel after p11 and one downclimb/short rappel at p14.
Real route beta: http://www.summitpost.org/route/419191/east-arete-of-north-summit.html
