Trip Report
Playing Around in the San Rafael Swell
Monday June 13, 2016 5:32pm
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1000 Feet of Fun
1000 Feet of Fun
Credit: Ney Grant
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The San Rafael Swell in Utah is unmistakable and quite fascinating when flying over it, and I had remembered reading about the San Rafael climb "1,000 feet of fun" in a Supertopo thread of great moderate climbs. I also knew there was some canyoneering there. Maybe a good place to spend a week, unplugged?

It is a bit of a drive from California so we stopped in Austin Nevada for some mountain biking on the way out. Wow, an absolutely beautiful mountain bike ride in complete solitude. This, when I know Moab is in full swing with crowds on every trail.

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We missed the rain while riding, barely.
We missed the rain while riding, barely.
Credit: Ney Grant
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Lonely Austin, NV
Lonely Austin, NV
Credit: Ney Grant
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After the ride and some more driving we found ourselves on a four wheel drive track in our two wheel drive sprinter heading into Three Finger Canyon in the Swell. We got the van stuck, then unstuck and found a nice spot to camp, then hiked the rest of the way (a mile or so) into the canyon to the climb.

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The white ramp in the red rock is the climb, 1,000 Feet of Fun
The white ramp in the red rock is the climb, 1,000 Feet of Fun
Credit: Ney Grant
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The 5.6 Crux (easier than it looks)
The 5.6 Crux (easier than it looks)
Credit: Ney Grant
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We were actually a tad disappointed in the climb. There is one 5.5 move and one 5.6 move and the rest is quite easy. But there are petrogplyhs at the mouth of the canyon and at least in the spring season a very nice pothole to cool your feet. I was about to jump in but Bets thought it would be uncool to subject the pothole critters to our sweaty bodies.

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Late lunch in a cool place after a hot climb
Late lunch in a cool place after a hot climb
Credit: Ney Grant
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The next day we did Bon Voyage, a 5.8 in the next canyon over. A nice climb although we are still getting used to sandstone and not granite. At one point Betsy was leading and I heard a "pow" and little cloud of red dust arose next to her foot as she dropped a foot to a ledge. It would not have been a good leader fall. Granite doesn't do that.

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Bon Voyage, fortunately well bolted in the areas where the rock was cr...
Bon Voyage, fortunately well bolted in the areas where the rock was crappy.
Credit: Ney Grant
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The next day we switched to a static polypro rope and bathing suits and descended Bishop's Draw into Upper Chute Canyon, then back up Cross Canyon to our van in a true long backcountry canyoneering experience.

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Lost in the Swell
Lost in the Swell
Credit: Ney Grant
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The one long drop
The one long drop
Credit: Ney Grant
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Pay no attention to the fact my left foot is on a chockstone - its sti...
Pay no attention to the fact my left foot is on a chockstone - its still a good photo. This was a mandatory downclimb.
Credit: Ney Grant
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There wasn't enough water to need wetsuits, but we did get wet.
There wasn't enough water to need wetsuits, but we did get wet.
Credit: Ney Grant
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Your reward.
Your reward.
Credit: Ney Grant
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At this point we were low on water and food so we headed into the bustling city of Moab (really bustling) for supplies, plus margaritas and Mexican food. We asked our waiter what ride we should do while in town for one day and he directed us to Hymasa Back / Captain Ahab. Wow, nice ride - although we did walk out bikes down a lot of drops I'm sure some guys fly over.

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Our Moab vacation photo
Our Moab vacation photo
Credit: Ney Grant
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After watering up and taking a longer shower than we take in the desert, we headed back to the Swell for more climbing.

Betsy had me concerned for a while because she likes rattlesnakes. She is a veterinarian and a week prior to the trip had hosted rattlesnake aversion training with live rattlesnakes. It may have worked for the dogs but not for her, because she found a rattlesnake and wanted to hear it rattle. What could go wrong?

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Betsy and the rattlesnake
Betsy and the rattlesnake
Credit: Ney Grant
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She did not get bit. For climbing, we climbed Firebird, 5.7 near Spotted Wolf canyon and also Rumble Strips, 5.8, right next to it.

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Looking down the eastern edge of the Swell, and you can see why there ...
Looking down the eastern edge of the Swell, and you can see why there are so many nice moderate climbs here.
Credit: Ney Grant
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On the way home we went up (hiked Mt. Wheeler) and down (did the Lehman Caves tour). A great week!

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The top of Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park
The top of Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park
Credit: Ney Grant
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The depths of Lehman Caves
The depths of Lehman Caves
Credit: Ney Grant
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  Trip Report Views: 4,036
Ney Grant
About the Author
Ney is a trad climber from Pollock Pines.

Comments
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Jun 13, 2016 - 05:55pm PT
Nice one! I'd love to be able to take the time to do exactly this! I covered the same territory last summer with my kids, did some cool canyoneering, but didn't have time to stop through the Swell. Just got to drive across and then parallel to it with my jaw open for a few hours. Couldn't talk my kids into climbing the summit in Great Basin- but we did have a nice bivy about a quarter mile in somewhere near the end of the road. Lehman Caves are cool too.

Thanks for sharing.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jun 13, 2016 - 07:23pm PT

Awesome!
Thanks for sharing--and I'm glad there was no snakebite!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jun 14, 2016 - 02:25am PT
Thanx for sharing,
Fragile sandstone tiptoeing, seems like something to out grow.;)

When you grow up you'll look back and wonder why
you did not add your own climb in the swell.

Always such fun trips, with spice of life and casual understatement in the comments
Nice pics too.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jun 14, 2016 - 07:15am PT
Wow.....a decathlon of fun!
slabbo

Trad climber
colo south
  Jun 14, 2016 - 07:20am PT
We were out in the Swell recently, getting back into things. Very cool stuff, there's quite a bit of good stone there. It also helps to know some of the route developers !
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jun 14, 2016 - 07:23am PT
Wheeler Peak is straight up awesome!! Glad you got to do it. Did you go to the Bristlecone Grove?
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Author's Reply  Jun 14, 2016 - 07:57am PT
Hi Tad,

How many times have we gotten the van stuck? More times than you know. Twice more this winter - once in snow with chains on and once in mud when we went out into Nevada to hike a peak - some jeepers pulled us out. I got a battery powered Warn winch for Christmas but haven't used it yet. I also carry traction sleds and an air compressor. For example, out in the Swell I reduced the air pressure dramatically for better traction in sand and also a better ride on the rough roads. Still, we manage to get stuck a lot. I am very grateful we haven't caused much damage yet except for some bent metal.

I just read your thread on the van build - it is looking good!

Ney

Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Author's Reply  Jun 14, 2016 - 08:02am PT
Yes, Wheeler peak is an awesome hike with beautiful views. We didn't have time for the bristlecone forest and I didn't even know about the largest mahogany tree - that would have been cool to see.

Not a lot of people seem to visit that national park - I guess because it is so far from anywhere. Its a beautiful place with a quirky town of Baker next to it.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Jun 14, 2016 - 09:21am PT
Pretty sweet looking trip!
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Author's Reply  Jun 14, 2016 - 09:23am PT
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 14, 2016 - 11:14am PT
Awesomeness ney, that's one sweet looking rig there!!
I've always loved that part of the country 👍
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Jun 14, 2016 - 12:52pm PT
That looks great.
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Jun 14, 2016 - 01:54pm PT
Great share from a unique place! I've only driven or cycled through and have always wanted to go back with more time. Even more so now.

Thanks!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Jun 14, 2016 - 02:07pm PT
Really cool TR.... must mark that on my bucket list for retirement trips.

Thank you for taking the time to share.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Jun 14, 2016 - 02:10pm PT
Great stuff! Just another reason to head to the Moab area.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Jun 14, 2016 - 07:29pm PT
Wow, that was a quite varied vacation. Beautiful places too.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Jun 14, 2016 - 09:59pm PT
Nice road trip! TFPU!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jun 14, 2016 - 10:16pm PT
nice trip!
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Jun 15, 2016 - 06:09am PT
Beautiful......thanks for posting, time to get after it in the Basin again??? Give Ron and I a shout when you're ready Ney.
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Author's Reply  Jun 15, 2016 - 07:09am PT
Hi Charlie,

My daughter and I were out there for the first time this year a few days ago. Road is OK and trail is still good. I'll send you an email.
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
  Jun 15, 2016 - 07:15am PT
How recently did you do this trip? It wasn't too hot in the Swell???
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  Jun 15, 2016 - 07:20am PT
Now there was a fun time!!!!


Susan
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Author's Reply  Jun 15, 2016 - 10:44am PT
We just did the trip the week after Memorial day. It was warm enough we didn't want to climb all day in the sun, but it wasn't hot. I think it is that time of year that it may be cool, or damn hot. Later in the summer I think its just plain damn hot.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Jun 15, 2016 - 11:18am PT
The Swell is soooo cool. Got to spend two days there a couple months ago. Thanks for the TR Ney.
Lurkingtard

climber
  Jun 15, 2016 - 11:21am PT
I've driven through there many times. Looks like I'll have to stop and check it out. Thanks for the info and cool pics.
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