http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1984314/SushiFest-IV-XX-Indian-Creek-4-19-13-4-21-13,
we decided we needed to do some crack climbing. We had one day this week, so we decided to check out Point Mugu, which my wife assured me was the only true varied crack climbing within 2 hours of our house - plus it was on the ocean, which may or may not be a good thing depending on the weather.
Being from Washington, I miss the ocean, and jump at any opportunity to smell the clean, salt air.
Upon checking MountainProject however, the psych for exploring a new area was tempered by this comment:
For decades, Point Mugu has been THE spot for area climbers to learn basic crack climbing technique. The little boulder by the highway is simply famous among Ventura- and some LA-County climbers...and as Steve Edwards said in the Santa Barbara/Ventura guidebook, “If you don’t confuse famous with good, you may not be disappointed.”
The prospect of belaying from the car reminded me of good times at Wall Street out of Moab:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/wall-street/105716961
and the combination of elements was enough to over-rule the common-sense that suggested climbing in a sea-side/road-side, graffitied 20-foot shattered rock was a bad idea.
The approach is pretty brutal:
It's pretty sweet that the first 5-6 feet is covered with graffiti-covering paint, making for an early pump on an already-steep climb. It really adds a nice element to the 20-foot climbs. The landings are also, super-flat, so bouldering is a nice option, although the commitment gets higher the further left one climbs:
Be sure and set your emergency brake before belaying:
Justthemaid on one of the short, painful-yet-educational cracks:
Two relieved kids after surviving the epic approachaneering and brutal, thuggish fractures:
After this epic, the colors seemed brighter on the blossoming coral trees that lined the beach on the trip home.
It's good to be alive.