Trip Report
Potrero Chico Mexico, 2011

by Crimpergirl
Tuesday March 29, 2011 8:17pm
We headed to the Potrero from March 17 to the 28th. It was my third trip there (the first in 1998) and BrassNut's fifth to the Potrero. I just thought I'd share some photos of the trip. Several of the climbers we met know several tacos here. Great folks. The place is cool - huge limestone routes. Some sportily bolted, some overly-bolted and some trad. For the most part, all the climbs are great fun.

We were, for the first time, apprehensive about making this trip. Reading official reports, talking with some of my contacts, etc. had us thinking hard. Clearly we ultimately decided to go, but we used only the toll road, and I crazily put temporary brunette hair color in so as not to draw attention to myself. My blond hair has always drawn a lot of attention there - attention I didn't want. It is supposed to wash out in 28 washes...I'm still waiting!

Hopefully BrassNuts chimes in to add some context and info. For now, I'll just put up this stuff for you to enjoy.

Dave heading up some .10c arête pitch on the Plum Wall. Thought I'd get the butt-shot out of the way right away. :)

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Dave cruising again - this time on the .10a crux pitch of Will the Wolf Survive? What bum arm?

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Cool! At the top of Will the Wolf Survive?

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Another climb. More rocks! This is a four pitch .10a/b(easily done in two pitches) climb called Access Denied. May be the most fun of the new climbs we did there on this trip. Really enjoyable.

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There goes Dave!

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Dave doing some “laundry” :) with some of the Potrero in the background.

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Cool view of Dave on some climb

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Little flock of butterflies!

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Heading back up Estrellita! Yay Estrellita!

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Fun scenes around the entrance of the Potrero.

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One of the best thing about going to Potrero – the other climbers from around the world (though there were FAR fewer than years gone by - - maybe about 20 only in the Posada area). You’ll see folks from Squamish, Montreal, New Hampshire, France, England, etc. in this photo.

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Fun photo at the entrance of the Potrero.

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Worst pitch (.10a) of the trip in Virgin Canyon! This is the entry pitch to get to some really nice climbs though. Above this is an excellent .11c and .11d.

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Ubiquitous Mexican Sight.

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Dave dealing with the dreaded Mexican Intestinal Crud. Ugh. I got it first. I've named him Geraldo and he's sitting here with me nice. A pesty little thing. :)

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Beautiful sunrise

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View from the top of Pancho Villa Rides Again.

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Dave climbing with our friend Sam from Bristol, England. Topped on out Pancho Villa Rides Again.

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Cool Mexican motorcycle…a 750 Kawasaki Ducati Dammit exclaims the owner!

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  Trip Report Views: 3,527
Crimpergirl 		About the Author
Crimpergirl is a sport climber from Boulder, Colorado!.

Comments
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Mar 29, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
great report! The background in that photo of Dave washing his clothes in the swimming pool is incredible! Wild looking rocks.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
  Mar 29, 2011 - 08:49pm PT
Ah such fond memories.
Looks like you had fun!
TFPU.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
  Mar 29, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
Thanks! Looked fun.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Mar 29, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
Pert neat, Crimps! Where's Dave's brain bucket?
Thanks for the share!!!!
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Mar 29, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
Nice TR! Great pics. I want to go now. Thanks ;)
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Mar 29, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
Nice. That shot of Dave by the pool with the cliffs behind is sweet.
AKTrad

Mountain climber
AK
  Mar 29, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
Great photos! You have inspired me to do a road trip.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Mar 29, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
Awesome Crimpie, glad you got some sunshine and climbing!
ng

Trad climber
southwest
  Mar 29, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
Crimpergirl and others,

Were there any issues as a gringo traveling outside of the Potrero area?

The media and attention on the horrors of Juarez, Tijuana, ... make traveling in northern Mexico somewhat unappealing.

Thanks for your input
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Mar 29, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
NG:

I did a lot of research on it before we went because for the first time ever, we weren't certain it was a good idea to go. By researching, I mean examining published information, government reports, newspaper articles and talked to friends in various federal law enforcement agencies.

Going *into* Monterrey is simply a bad idea. I say that and the locales in Hidalgo will tell you that too. Magic Ed says it - they all know it. Don't do it, and for heaven's sake DO NOT do it at night. Not only is the city dealing with the Drug Trafficking Organizations (primarily the Zetas and the Gulf Cartel) and their branching into more than drugs (e.g., extortion), but groups of young men are using this time to rob others. These guys set up road blocks and they block exits to stores/gas stations/shops, and systematically rob all the people in them. Assaults also have occurred.

Your best bet is to fly to Monterrey and get a cab that takes you directly to Hidalgo. The cab companies at the airport can be used for that. Or contact Magic Ed (he posts here) and pay him to do it. Part of that money goes to rebolting projects in the Potrero. Use the toll road. They are privately owned and at least so far do not seem to experience the road blocks/robberies some other roads have.

Once in Hidalgo, you'll be fine. There is a lot of military/police with big ass automatic weapons in Hidalgo which is a bit unsettling. While locals say no problems have happened in Hidalgo, the DTOs have been there - this is clear. At least so far, violence isn't an issue in Hidalgo.

Also, once in Mexico, even at the Potrero, don't be stupid and buy or sell drugs or use them openly. You do not want to spend any time in a Mexican Jail (hell, you really shouldn't want to do this in the USA). Military/police are in the Potrero - they go through and they camp there. They are at the gate also. They patrol the swimming pool areas. Behave in the Potrero. We were not bothered by any of these folks so I don't think you should worry about them either. I will say we were intimidated enough that we didn't dare take a photo of any of them in their masks and get ups.

Other than that, we decided to travel very low key. We wore very inexpensive and boring clothes. We made sure we landed and took off in the middle of the day to avoid travel after dark. And like I mentioned I temporarily (they say) dyed my hair brunette so as to get zero attention.

I think it is fine to fly, toll road and behave in the Hidalgo area, but it is different than it's been before. I think driving is a mistake. In general the TX crowd is no longer there for that reason. A week before we went, a friend drove from here. He got his car searched (i.e., seats removed and SEARCHED) four times on his trip. On one stop the police liberated his cash. Not a good idea to drive I think. :(

Hope that helps. Hopefully things in MX clear up soon. It'd be a drag to only be able to remember the good old days when going there was no big deal.

One last thing, when flying out of Monterrey, check ALL your climbing equipment. They will not let you fly with any of it. We had a biner on our camera which earned us a searched bag. For a while, I thought they'd make us check the friggin' biner!

edit: Ah, one last thing. We think it a good idea to go BEFORE the beginning of Spring. That is a huge holiday and we found the character of the place to change dramatically after it.
ng

Trad climber
southwest
  Mar 29, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
Crimpergirl,

Thanks for the extremely helpful and insightful reply!

Glad you had a fun and relatively uneventful trip.

My wife and I climbed down there in 2005 without a care in the world; your reply is eye-opening. We rented our own car in Monterey and drove all around, day and night. Now, we'd be going with our twin toddlers...hence, we'll delay until the situation improves.

On a different note, have you (or others) ever rock climbed specifically (not alpine - i.e. Peru, Bolivia) in any of the other central / south american countries (columbia, brazil, ...)?

We are constantly searching for a good mid-winter haven for rock in the Western Hemisphere.

Thanks again for the super-helpful info.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Mar 29, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
Ng:

I have to be honest, I wouldn't take my children there (if I had children). Others feel free to disagree with me.

I think I mentioned that we'd been been there many times before (eight between the two of us). Before I'd rented cars, driven, walked to town, wandered around at night, never worried about anything. It didn't feel that way this time. All in all, though the climbing is great fun, I don't think we'll return given all the changes. I like the carefree days of times gone by. Sorry to bear bummer-ish news.
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Mar 29, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
Wonderful shots. Time to go south.....

Stevo
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
  Mar 29, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
Superlative trip report, Crimpie.
Bowser

Social climber
Durango CO
  Mar 29, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
Hey Crimpergirl,

Thank you for posting up.

A friend of mine and I drove down back in 06 and stayed at Posada. Things we so much different!

Several of us, under the guidance of Milton (Homero's) and his brother went into Monterey and watched Mexico vs Chile in a Soccer (futball) game. Freaking amazing! You should have seen seven of us cram into a Honda CRX because we did not want to take the bus back to Hildago.

Anyway, when my wife and I go back (blonde also), we will take your advice on flying into Mont. and asking Ed to pick us up. I guess a trip to the hot springs and Culo de Gato is out of the question.

Did you go into town and eat at that fabulous seafood place?

TB

PS, is Milton and Homero's still operating?
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Mar 30, 2011 - 12:13am PT
We didn't see Milton at all which was a bummer since he celebrated his birthday while we were there. There was one tent at Homero's but they weren't serving food. That sucked as I really love their breakfasts!

I heard of some guys heading out to some places for climbing and hot springs, though there were not many doing so. I didn't feel comfortable doing it. Maybe it is okay. You could also go and see how you feel and then decide. That is what we did and I opted on going to the Posada and staying there the entire trip. I never even went into Hidalgo which is a first.

The Pagoda has some climbers there too. And like I mentioned, there were about 20 climbers at the Posada.

This leads to the only major suckage part of the trip. Of course these businesses need customers. They've lost the driving crowd and they've lost the USA crowd mostly. We were the ONLY folks from the USA with three exceptions! So, they have turned to locales for business. The locales come in with very different ideas about behavior and this does not work well with climbers. They'd stay up all night with BLASTING music (multiple sources), throwing trash everywhere, foul filthy dogs running and fighting, playing with fire, dogs in the pool (and restaurant and kitchen), some theft and they were very hostile to suggestions even from those working at the Posada to be more considerate. I mentioned in another post that the Posada said they would be hiring guards from here on out given how terrible it was. It was friggin rioting behavior stuff. IMPOSSIBLE to sleep with even with earplugs or being in a room.

The day we left, I went to the bathroom to find meat and bones in there. For real. That is just gross.

I went worrying about outside violence and ended up worrying I've effing punch or kill someone. I fantasized harming these folks in ways that would get me incarcerated. :) The weekend of Spring is a huge holiday so we got 3.5 days of non-stop screaming insanity (i.e, no sleep at all). Tues, Wed and Thursday though on Tues a dumb arse climber decided it was his night to be a drunk loud mouth. At least when BrassNuts screamed for him to SHUT UP at 2am he did! Tues and Wed I 'enjoyed' the intestinal crud (first time even in MX!). Then the following Friday started 2.5 days of the same. Several of the climbers stopped climbers from sheer exhaustion - no exaggeration. I came home totally sleep deprived.

If there is ever a next time, it won't be at the Posada which makes me sad as I like the family and would love to support them. I like sleep better though.

We decided it is probably wise not to go there after Spring begins. It should cut down on that interaction between the two groups of folks with different ideas of the value of sleep.
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
  Mar 30, 2011 - 01:59am PT
Wow Crimpie you guys were brave - and smart. I've always wanted to go there but not now. We've given up our once or twice a year visits to Cabo too, a place I really loved in the "old" days. What a shame for the honest people there just trying to make a living.

Great pics anyway!

Get your head in the sun and wash your hair a lot, it'll come out!
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
  Mar 30, 2011 - 02:03am PT
Frickin' Awesome...
pc

climber
  Mar 30, 2011 - 02:10am PT
Awesome! Great report and photos Crimpie. Love the napping shot.

Cheers,
pc
Papillon Rendre

Social climber
  Mar 30, 2011 - 10:01am PT
Great TR and photos.

Thanks for sharing!
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
  Mar 30, 2011 - 10:28am PT
Callie,
Very glad you guys had a good trip and thanks for the candid report.
Rick
Disaster Master

Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
  Mar 30, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
Nice to see Dave recovered. Congrats on a mostly fun trip.

Years ago I loaded up the VW Bus and headedthat way. The bus broke down repetedly. I had to fix it 4 times one day. It blew up near J-Tree. So I ended up in the camp there working on engine at night and climbing in day. Went home broke. Never got to Mexico. Oh Well.

How is the border crossing these days?
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Mar 30, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
Indeed, the arm is back! (Beat those plaids SteelMonkey!)


Disaster master = we flew. The border areas are sketchy. Personally I wouldn't consider doing it. The Texas contingent who were in the Potrero each weekend has stopped going - it's really hurt the locals who offered camping/restaurants it seems. Maybe some of the TX fellas can chime in and tell you more about the border...
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Mar 30, 2011 - 02:42pm PT
Great report, dismaying aspects aside! Sounds like a grim devolution of a wonderful place. Like Dylan says, you can always go back, but you can't go back all the way.

Military/police are in the Potrero - they go through and they camp there. They are at the gate also. They patrol the swimming pool areas. Behave in the Potrero. We were not bothered by any of these folks so I don't think you should worry about them either.

My understanding was that both federal and local/state police have been deeply corrupted by cartel influence ($), hence JCS Chairman Mullen's comment a while back about Mexico approaching status of a failed state? Break down of state institutions, etc.
WallMan

Trad climber
Denver, CO
  Mar 30, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
Great trip report, thanks for bringin' me back, Crimpie. Sorry to hear Posada's and EPC is going downhill. EPC is fantastic - I will be back.

Climb Ohn. Wally
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Mar 30, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
Awesome looking trip!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Mar 30, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
Indeed, the arm is back! (Beat those plaids SteelMonkey!)

The hell with the plaids... I want some guns like that!!!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Mar 30, 2011 - 04:05pm PT
Yeah, which way to the gun store?

Great TR. Sad deal. I've always wanted to go.

Thanks!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Mar 30, 2011 - 04:44pm PT
Thanks for the TR. Great pics of a place I've never visited, but now want to.

Thanks again.

John
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
  Mar 30, 2011 - 07:33pm PT
Maybe some of the TX fellas can chime in and tell you more about the border...

I live in Austin and we use to go to Potrero once a year, but we haven't gone since a year from last Thanksgiving because of the killings.

My wife is from Mexico City so it is necessary to go to Mex from time to time. I've crossed at least a dozen times and have never had problems crossing by car. The only time we have been shaken down was when my wife got pulled over for running a red light. The federales wanted cash but my wife refused and gave her liscense instead. She just got a new liscense when we got back to tex.

I talked to my wife about going to potrero this spring and she said she didn't feel comfortable there, so we are planning a trip in the states instead.
We drove from Austin to Monterrey and flew from Monterrey to Cabo a month ago with no problems.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Author's Reply  Mar 30, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
Thanks S. Leeper!
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
  Mar 30, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
Anytime ;)
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