Trip Report
Red Rock: Escape from Seattle
Tuesday December 6, 2011 8:21pm
With rain forecast for the next six months, and Seattle seeming like a very dark, very wet cave that we had been sent to for punishment, we decided to go to the bizarro world of bright lights, blue skies, and sunshine: Las Vegas!

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Credit: Banished to the Cascades
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Day 1. We started on Beulah's Book, a great four-pitch climb in Oak Creek Canyon. The second pitch is the money pitch. It starts off with an improbable looking chimney, after which you pull a roof, and you're then rewarded with a beautiful right-leaning crack.

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Credit: Banished to the Cascades
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You top out at the base of Upper Solar Slab, which drew a lot of traffic from sun-starved climbers. Here's Christie basking in the sun, wondering why she ever left California and agreed to trade almost year-round climbing for a two to three week weather window in the Cascades:

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Credit: Banished to the Cascades
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Day 2. In which Christie learns that cams really do work

We warmed up on a 5.7. To be more precise, Christie warmed up on a 5.7. Given that she has led me and my sorry crack climbing skills up a lot of 5.10s and the occasional 5.11, I didn't plan on using my brake hand much.
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Credit: Banished to the Cascades
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Christie was up and over the top of the route, and out of sight, when I heard Christie's characteristic scream, followed by “Falling!” A rag doll that vaguely resembled my climbing partner came hurtling into sight, and, about 40 feet later, came to rest on the rock, apparently uninjured. A 40-foot fall held by one of Black Diamond's smallest cans, a C3 No. 1 (slid in horizontally).

Here's the placement that held the fall:

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Credit: Banished to the Cascades
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Next we tried an off-width roof first put up in the 70s by Joe Herbst, who had apprenticed in Yosemite before ticking off a bunch of first ascents at Red Rock. Having climbed in Yosemite, we should have known better than to jump on an off-width first put up in the 70s by a Yosemite climber. Fortunately, Christie neglected to take a picture of me flailing up the off-witdh, but if you imagine a really desperate person breathing like he's going into labor you have the idea. Here's Christie cruising it on TR:
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Credit: Banished to the Cascades
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To round out a day of sandbags, Christie hopped on a humble 5.9 with a 5-inch roof crack, that, judging by the number of the slings and bail biners below the roof, has probably not seen a lot of traffic since it was first put up in the 70s.

Day 3. In which Matt takes a rest day, and Christie climbs Levitation 29

Perhaps all that needs to be said about Levitation 29 is that Lynn Hill and John Long did the first ascent. It's a Red Rock classic. It's so good, we don't have any decent pictures of it. Christie claims that the route was so hard, she didn't have any energy left over to take pictures.

Day 4. Calico basin

After six hours of hiking to and from Levitation 29, Christie wanted a shorter approach, so we climbed at Panty Wall. Yes, I will admit that we climbed at Panty Wall mostly so that we could say the names of the climbs. We climbed: Panty Raid, Panty Mime, Panty Prow, Cover My Buttress, Sacred Undergarments Squeeze Job, Edible Panties, and Viagra Falls. What's not to like about climbing in Las Vegas?

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Credit: Banished to the Cascades
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Credit: Banished to the Cascades
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And yes, we counted 8 people from Seattle climbing at Panty Wall on Saturday, November 26.

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Credit: Banished to the Cascades
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Banished to the Cascades
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Comments
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Dec 6, 2011 - 08:33pm PT
Aaarrgghh...bring me next time!!

Thanks for the post! Nice TR!
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Dec 6, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
Nice! Thanks for the stoke!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 6, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
Sweet, thanks for sharing, glad the little cam held a 40 footer, yikes!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Dec 6, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
Good stuff, that. TFPU!!!
Anyone can slip. Anytime. Cheers!
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Dec 6, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
red rocks TRs are always welcome, I love those rocks!
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Dec 7, 2011 - 12:34am PT
Fabulous TR! Stay dry ;-)
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Dec 7, 2011 - 01:14am PT
Nice !
crustie

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Dec 7, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
Thanks Matt for a great TR, sorry I took no photos of you!

fyi, my 40-footer started as a foot hold that broke off entirely just as i weighted it. So much for my thinking "I can't fall hear, this is the RED ZONE!! I'm just above a ledge and the last piece is...wait, where is my last piece?" pzzzzzzz off i went! scary!
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
  Dec 7, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
When a small C3 in sandstone holds a 40 foot fall and there are no injuries to the leader, you know you are having a GOOD day.

Thanks for the TR.
alpinedon

Mountain climber
Glide, Or.
  Dec 7, 2011 - 06:31pm PT
Really nice trip report.Great pictures. I wanted to say that although Lynn Hill and John Long were on the first ascent of Levitation 29, so was Joanne Urisote, and for some reason, she never seems to get credit. Anyway, hope you don't mind me piping in.
Prod

Trad climber
  Dec 7, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
Nice work.

What and where was the 5.7, and what were the 2 OW's?

Thanks for posting up,

Prod.
iancav

Big Wall climber
everywhere
  Dec 9, 2011 - 09:07pm PT
nice work! i love red rocks and many of those climbs. Just a quick fact for you, lynn hill, john long and joanne urioste did get the first free ascent of the Lev 29. but the route was equipped and climbed by none other than George and Joanne Urioste and Bill Bradley. they are truly the ones to thank for this great line and vision up that spectacular wall.
Prod

Trad climber
  Dec 10, 2011 - 04:44pm PT
Bump my questions...

What and where was the 5.7 whipper, and what were the 2 OW's?

Prod.
crustie

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Dec 15, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
5.7 & offwidth & 5.9 all on on byrd pinnacle. don't remember their names, but there aren't many climbs there so you can prob figure it out...

cg
philo

climber
  Dec 18, 2011 - 11:21am PT
TFPU! It is always nice to see the RR TRs. I appreciate those posters keeping thee record straight on Lev 29. Glad Crustie wasn't hurt. Post up more sunshine daydreams.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Dec 18, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
Nice to see you out climbing, Crustie. I hope this means the diagnosis of you having that wierd degenerative condition was wrong, and that your arm/hand is improving.

The story of your fall on easy ground reminded me of those pitches with the fragile rock that we did on Bourbon Street. Thankfully we didn't fall there!
Phyl
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