Trip Report
Seasonal affective disorder mountain pictorial......
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Monday November 24, 2014 4:12pm
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a couple of which you may recognize. I'll provide the general area. Weather sucks, nice time to look at pics. leaving for Patagonia in three weeks...trying to keep the stoke going. Lot's of new routes on these peaks....buy a plane ticket!
 Missing photo ID#387968
And for extra credit...who is this gentleman?
Missing photo ID#387968
donini
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About the Author
donini is a trad climber from Ouray, Colorado. |
Comments
Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Nov 24, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
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Beautiful, don't know the gentlemen nor the peaks. What is that pyramid in China that says climb me?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Nov 24, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
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That's the RADNESS11!!11134 brah!
Thanks Donini.
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youngharz
Boulder climber
Santa Barbara
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Nov 24, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
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That's quite a pictorial Jim!
The pointy one in China is Pomiu, aka Celestial Peak.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nov 24, 2014 - 05:26pm PT
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Nice Jim,
Was that chuck Pratt???
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 24, 2014 - 05:32pm PT
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Mr L Dome
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 24, 2014 - 05:37pm PT
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Ezra, you know better.
So did Chuck.
Same old, same old, eh, Jim? :0)
Fare thee well, and stoke be with you, brother!
And luck, and weather, and Angela.
Hi, babe!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Nov 24, 2014 - 05:48pm PT
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Donini! Thanks for the wonderful photos from remote spots around the globe.
Makes sense that your first photo would be from your scenic bivy-cabin in Patagonia.
One of the best views on earth, especially when you know that the cabin is near sea-level and the peaks in the photo go up to slightly over 13,000 Ft.
Enjoy!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 24, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
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Well, I don't recognize the gentleman with the cigarette, but maybe I can get extra credit for pointing out that you don't have to go to the ends of the earth to find spectacular alpine granite.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 24, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
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Damn, some of those in China look freaking very good. How is the hike in and access to those peaks?
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Nov 24, 2014 - 09:08pm PT
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This might just exacerbate the S.A.D.
Gorgeous shots!
Last one looks amazingly like Dirty Pete from Mono City. But no.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Nov 24, 2014 - 10:05pm PT
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Here's hoping for great weather and good climbing.
I wish I could remember that advice you gave me when we turned 60: don't waste a...? don't waste a...?
Just can't remember.
Take care.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Nov 25, 2014 - 07:31am PT
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Hey Jim,
Thanks for those great pictures. As always, have fun down there.
As for the identity of that guy. I bet he's a Brit. He just has that look, and not because of the flag on his shirt.
The guy looks a bit like you, when you were younger, but I'll take a guess--Rab Carrington?
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Nov 25, 2014 - 06:20am PT
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Cool stuff, thanks.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Nov 25, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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Amazing shots Jim. Still saving my pennies for south america..
Bonus guess: Young Jim Donini!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 25, 2014 - 11:37am PT
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This looks incredible. Echoes of the Whitney group - but, haha, different. Man oh man.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nov 25, 2014 - 11:40am PT
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Sweet pics Jim! Thanks! Have fun down south!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 25, 2014 - 11:46am PT
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I want to climb this! Many lines on it? What is the name?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 25, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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I've always wanted to visit my cousins in Buenos Aires and then just keep going south to Patagonia. You're stoking that fire with those phenomenal pictures, Jim. Now if only I could get the necessary money . . .
John
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 25, 2014 - 11:55am PT
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Great pics in all kinds of weather...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Nov 25, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
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Wow great pictures. 100% chance of a flat Thanksgiving for me so this is some great stoke for when I get back. Jim you are sorely lacking on some Canadian pics.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Nov 25, 2014 - 01:54pm PT
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Steve....the gentleman is british. You KNOW who he is.
Vitaliy....the mountain is Siguniang 20,300 ft. the north face has a route up the ice runnel, maybe nothing else. Easy to get to....half day drive from Chengdu to Rilong and then a three hour hike.
le bruce....the tower on the left is Torrecito Tito Carrasco and the tallest is the north pillar of Cerro Pollone....i have an FA on both.
Ghost, Fritz and rfshore....thanks for the additions!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Nov 25, 2014 - 04:45pm PT
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O.K. Jim,
Perhaps Tut Braithwaite in the mid 70's?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Nov 25, 2014 - 05:01pm PT
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Mike, I use Canada primarily as a rock climbing venue....read Squamish. I have been to the Bugs a couple of times and did get an ass kicking in the late 70's trying to do the Emperor Face on Robson in winter.
Steve....not Tut but same era.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Nov 25, 2014 - 05:29pm PT
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O.K.
One more guess and I'm done- Martin Boysen
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Nov 25, 2014 - 05:38pm PT
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Steve.....bingo!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Nov 25, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
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WOOHOO SteveA!
Do you know Martin?
The confederate-flag was somewhat of a stumper for me, or I also would have guessed a younger Donini. I knew he was too much of a Yankee for that.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 25, 2014 - 08:32pm PT
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There's an interview with Martin here: http://vimeo.com/98519080
(not sure how to embed a live Vimeo link)
Only met him once. I was visiting Ken Wilson in Manchester and he took me out for a bit of climbing one afternoon on one of the nearby gritstone edges with some of his friends, including Martin. The edges weren't terribly high, but I was surprised to find that ropes didn't appear to be involved. Everybody just took turns blasting up one route after another, with much good humored shouting fueling the fun.
I'm not the world's bravest boulderer, but I convinced myself that this was climbing, not bouldering, and survived a few climbs. But when the sun went down I was pretty happy, thinking that the soloing was over and we could all go back to Ken's place and eat food, drink beer, and look at slides.
Ha. Stupid me. All that changed when the sun went down was that the crazies climbed by the light of a Coleman lantern at the base of the cliff instead of by sunlight. That didn't seem to bother any of them, but I was pretty much petrified once I got more than about ten feet off the ground and couldn't see anything any more.
But we all survived, and eventually partied the night away at Ken's. Martin seemed like a very decent guy.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Nov 26, 2014 - 05:42am PT
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Fritz,
I wouldn't say I know him. I climbed with him once, just as I climbed with many other Brits; including Alex MacIntyre, Al Rouse, John Porter
and others.
After getting wounded in Vietnam, in 1970, I was medically retired from the Army. This made it possible for me to take military hops all over the world--a lucky thing. I made many trips to the UK, and Europe, meeting many of the active climbers, at that time.
In hindsight, getting wounded, proved a blessing, since all that shrapnel, still in me, rarely bothers me to this day, but enabled me to meet and climb with so many notable climbers.
Sometimes recognizing these same faces today is quite tough, as we age. Although this climber is no longer with us, having gotten himself chopped many years ago, I bet few, if any here will recognize him. Any guesses?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Nov 26, 2014 - 06:38am PT
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Alan Rouse.
Check out Boysen's new autobiography!
Ghost....Martin and Maggie still live in Manchester.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Nov 26, 2014 - 06:46am PT
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WoW Jim,
That was quick! You and Angela have a nice Turkey Day. Quack, Quack
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Nov 26, 2014 - 07:02am PT
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So just take off for summer then, leave us here in the cold and dark. Fine.
Have fun!!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 26, 2014 - 10:39pm PT
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O-o-o-w!
A-h-h-h!
I'm not SAD anymore!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Nov 27, 2014 - 07:01am PT
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Bruce, you're right about Jirishanca....I'll change it.
I caught some nice trout in that lake.
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