…and sent me to Squamish.

She insisted I go: “You ogle Supertopo every morning, but haven’t been on a climbing trip in a year. Email Jeremy, find out where he is climbing next week, and buy a plane ticket.”

With Jeremy home in Vancouver, I was soon flying over the land of the Kingsburys' lonely dental floss and headed to Squamish for the first time.


After driving to Squamish, we “basecamped” with Jer’s close friends, Kelly and Katy (thanks so much guys! you were wonderfully gracious hosts! can’t wait to hear the paddle-cirque TR)

Now a conspirator in the plan to help me climb away the residual stress from the last year, “What grade do you want to climb, and for how many pitches?” Jeremy asked. Not sure I’ve heard sweeter words than that.

For starters, the answer was the Ultimate Everything Linkup of the Apron and second summit of the Chief. We did the route as 18 pitches, linking 3 different slab climbs up the Apron and then up the UE. Most of the climbing was in the 5.8 to 5.9 range, with a couple harder moves on the last pitch – a perfect introduction to the Chief. The “official” linkup discussed in the guide combines things a bit differently, but climbing around crowds gave us a variant of similar difficulty and 5-star quality.

The rough location of the line we took:


Jeremy – on the 1st and then 2nd pitches – arguing that fingers are superfluous when paddling up slab:



Being a Saturday with beautiful weather, the Chief was busy. One of the many other parties on the Apron that day:


Some views from belays on the Apron.



Jeremy on the short walk to hook up with the 10-pitch Ultimate Everything proper.


Nearly every pitch on the UE ends at a large tree ledge, giving the route a discontinuous, but laid back feel.



View from one of the belays of the queue on Squamish Buttress:


same feature...zoomed out a bit:


And, Jeremy topping out.


After the first day, things got wetter.


Making time for early morning (I was still on Boston time) walks in the rainforest,


Each day, the cliffs dried up late enough to chase away the crowds, but early enough for lots more climbing. The classic finger crack Exasperator was one of the trip highlights for me.

It was a bit moist at the start, but all clear from there. Some folks combine these two pitches, but even with perfect beta (thanks, Jer!) I got my money’s worth breaking it up into two leads.


Frantically slotting a nut on pitch 2:


A rest...


and racing for the handjams above…notice the blur from my lightning-fast speed-climbing technique (inspired by numb fingers).


Jer at the base of another gem, Arrowroot.


And, climbing.


Jer also took me on a tour of Smoke Bluffs. A great collection of cliffs in Kelly’s and Katy’s neighborhood (literally), with dozens of outstanding 1-pitch routes.

A shot that gives you a sense of their neighborhood.


Here is a shot of part of Penny Lane cliff. On the left, is a Peter Croft – Tami Knight masterpiece and on the right is Penny Lane, a super-fun 5.9.


And, Jer on a sweet flake climb (forget the name, sorry!).


Not surprisingly, I came home with this smile still plastered on my face,


and she let me back in the house…for now. Thanks for the splendid time, Jer.