Trip Report
Shuteye Ridge Rocks
Thursday September 7, 2017 10:30am
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Betsy and I just returned from a week in Shuteye Ridge trying to stay cool and out of the smoke, which we only partially accomplished. Fortunately if you pay attention there are north facing climbs that are out of the sun. Unfortunately we often got lured out into the sun by compelling climbs and got a little baked at times.
What a fantastic place. We saw no one until labor day and then saw two parties. It's like it is a secret place but its not – Royal Robins climbed there in the 70’s and Grahm Doe has published a wonderful and current guidebook. Maybe in the fall there are more people? Or maybe the proximity to Yosemite just sucks the people from fine places like this and nearby Fresno dome? It is definitely more work and you can scratch up your car – maybe that is it. Whatever – it makes Shuteye a great place to visit if you are up for dirt roads and uphill approaches.
From alpine style adventures like Wing Feather and Intrepid Voyager to modern tightly bolted face climbs like Too Old to be Bold (put up by Jerry Anderson and family in 2004), we really had fun:
Ney Grant
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About the Author Ney is a trad climber from Pollock Pines. |
Comments
mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Awesome! Grey Eagle is a great place to stay cool, especially on the northern end. You got on Intrepid Voyage? if so, what'd ya think?
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Shuteye is awesome!
Climbing with Brian is awesome.
From my brief encounter with Belyn and what Brian says about her she seems awesome.
From what they both say about you and Betsy you guys must be awesome.
I bet it was an awesome weekend, TFPU!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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The Wing Feather/Captain Obvious on Gray Eagle is one of my favorites!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Schweeeeeeeet!!!!
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Author's Reply
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Sep 7, 2017 - 05:32pm PT
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Thanks for the comments!
Mooch - yes we did Intrepid Voyage. Great climb, definitely felt the PG13 rating. Similar to Wing Feather, we had to do a bit of route finding on P2. Both of those climbs are stellar.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Awesome, looks like you guys did a ton on the trip. Thanks for the TR.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Thank you for sharing, wish I could have joined and met you guys. Hopefully next time. Shuteye is supposed to be great during the fall :)
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Author's Reply
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Sep 8, 2017 - 03:21pm PT
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Yes Vitaliy we are looking forward to meeting you as well. It is always fun to follow your adventures and accomplishments!
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Ney, try and take it easy on the sprinter next time ok? Glad we got to join you guys! Hope the rest of your trip was awesome.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Author's Reply
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Sep 9, 2017 - 05:15pm PT
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Nice photo!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Good stuff, Ney.
Some five-star pics, there.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Sep 10, 2017 - 02:43am PT
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Looks wonderful,
Thank you!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Sep 10, 2017 - 08:40am PT
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Great pics of what looks like a great time!
Water-wise, did you ever take breaks to explore the nearby rivers to get clean and re-stock the water containers? How are the water levels in fall? Isolated stagnant pools or still flowing?
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Author's Reply
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Sep 12, 2017 - 09:37am PT
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Water-wise, did you ever take breaks to explore the nearby rivers to get clean and re-stock the water containers? How are the water levels in fall? Isolated stagnant pools or still flowing?
There were some small creeks still running here and there, but pretty dry overall. We did use creek water a few times to wash up, but not for potable water. We did stay on one undeveloped campsite near a year round creek, and it was disgusting. Really quite sad the amount of trash and toilet paper around - even in the water. This was near the paved road and wasn't a climber's camp, those up higher were very clean.
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Hardrock
Trad climber
San Bernardino
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Yes, very nice! Love the area since the mid 90's. Cooler this time of the year.
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Nkane
Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
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I think you walked by our camp Saturday morning of Labor Day! Looks like you had a great trip!
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Author's Reply
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Oct 4, 2017 - 12:30pm PT
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I think you walked by our camp Saturday morning of Labor Day! Looks like you had a great trip!
You had the pickup or SUV at Big Sleep? When we were walking off it looked like a tent and some stuff had been blowing around so we put rocks on them. So if it looked like someone had been messing with your stuff - well it was us.
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Nkane
Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
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Thanks for that! Skeeters woke me up at 2am and forced me to set up the tent and then I forgot to stake everything down in the morning. Dumb on my part; I should have expected that the same nice breeze that made the climbing bearable in the sun would blow my tent around.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Climbed there a couple of years ago, loved it...need to go back. Thanks for the tr!
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