Trip Report
Shuteye Ridge and the big gamble
Sunday November 6, 2011 6:28pm
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Grahm with an ace up his sleeve.
Grahm with an ace up his sleeve.
Credit: Slater
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"You got to know when to hold 'em,
know when to fold 'em,
know when to walk away,
know when to run,
you never count your money
when you're sittin' at the table,
there'll be time enough for countin'
... when the day is done."

So with my mother-in-law heading in for the next day and my wife giving me the green light to skeedaddle, I was pretty much game for a snowy walk in the forest. Who knows. Maybe we'd even get lucky, and actually get in some climbing. It didn't take much coaxing to lure my friend Grahm out for the day. At our age... it's all exercise. And hell, it was better than being indoors and playing poker or something lame like that.

Only thing was... it had snowed about 6" the night before. Gates might be locked. Roads closed due to snow. Rocks cluttered with ice, snow, or dripping.
But I'm a gambling man and decided to ante in and so I went for it and left the coast at 4am and arrived in North Fork at 8am on Saturday. I met Grahm, switched vehicles, and headed up the road and into the forest. The sun was out, but the sky was filled with clouds and the forecast was for more snow/rain. But when?

We racked and packed and hoofed it up the 1,000' elev. gain and by then the sun had disappeared and gray clouds had taken over. Should we fold 'em and walk away? Not quite yet. We decided to call mother nature's bluff and stay.

Along the way we saw some big @$$ bear prints in the snow. The pit boss no doubt. Probably out looking for breakfast? We eventually found our crag for the day, snowy, covered in icicles, but looking climbable. So with no small amount of fleece on, we chose our first two lines. Grahm had already climbed everything there so we decided to put in some new ones. Routes one and two were fun and went quickly. The skies were cold and dark but we were breaking even so far.

We moved down the wall and then caught a break and went on a run. Four more new routes, four winning hands! Aces everywhere. There it was. It had all paid off. The golden hour broke, lasted about 15 minutes, and then it was obviously time to run. We had lingered too long maybe, but reaped what we sowed. We counted our winnings all the way back down the snowy dark trail, lit only by the moon. When we got to the jeep it started to snow.

We beat the house, and were lucky for sure. But even old guys get lucky some times. I'll be musing over this day for the whole long winter, counting my riches in memories and snowflakes.

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Frosty morning.
Frosty morning.
Credit: Slater
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Fall colors in North Fork.
Fall colors in North Fork.
Credit: Slater
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The right vehicle for the trip.
The right vehicle for the trip.
Credit: Slater
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Summer-like conditions.
Summer-like conditions.
Credit: Slater
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Bear Breakfast.
Bear Breakfast.
Credit: Slater
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Sierra snows.
Sierra snows.
Credit: Slater
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Getting there is half the fun.
Getting there is half the fun.
Credit: Slater
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The first new one.
The first new one.
Credit: Slater
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The second new one.
The second new one.
Credit: Slater
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Ice Ice baby.
Ice Ice baby.
Credit: Slater
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The third new one.
The third new one.
Credit: Doe
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A balmy 42 degrees.
A balmy 42 degrees.
Credit: Slater
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Number four.
Number four.
Credit: Slater
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Route number 5.
Route number 5.
Credit: Slater
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Tom staying calm and collected on a tricky crux ;)
Tom staying calm and collected on a tricky crux ;)
Credit: Slater
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The golden hour approaching.
The golden hour approaching.
Credit: Slater
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The frozen hour approaching.
The frozen hour approaching.
Credit: Slater
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Frozen clouds.
Frozen clouds.
Credit: Slater
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The pit boss leaves his mark.
The pit boss leaves his mark.
Credit: Slater
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Headlamp? No... did you?
Headlamp? No... did you?
Credit: Slater
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Hope you are getting lucky too.
Cheers - Tom

  Trip Report Views: 2,584
Slater
About the Author
Slater is a trad climber from Central Coast and co-author of "California Road Trip - Climber's Guide to Northern California" and "California Central Coast Climbs: San Luis Obispo".

Comments
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Nov 6, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
sick brah!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Nov 6, 2011 - 06:59pm PT
Looks like fun. Glad you didn't meet the bear!
sandstone conglomerate

climber
sharon conglomerate central
  Nov 6, 2011 - 07:29pm PT
Very cool. Everything there including bear tracks.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Nov 6, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
Nice play.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 6, 2011 - 08:38pm PT
I love climbing whenit is cool out anda little snow on the ground.
Cobster

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca
  Nov 6, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
What a trip!! Experiencing nature to the fullest, well done Slater.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Nov 6, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
Stole a day there. TFPU
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
  Nov 7, 2011 - 02:03am PT
you got what it takes: some degree of urgency
on the urge o meter for starters, some stoppers
and a good eye for stuff that'll stay with you
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Nov 7, 2011 - 08:05am PT
That's some mighty fine looking rock! You guys definitely came out winners.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 7, 2011 - 08:51am PT
Awesome way to escape the Inlaws...:)
thanks!
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Author's Reply  Nov 7, 2011 - 05:39pm PT
Actually my in-laws are what make this happen, plus they're darn cool. It's always good to know the wife and kids are in good hands while gone.
One less thing to worry about... then all I gotta think about are the bears... and rambunctious locals.

Looks like weather might be ok for a mid-week roll.
Get on it!
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
  Nov 7, 2011 - 06:25pm PT
All the more sweet when the stars align like that.

(Although now my fingers are cold.)
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Nov 7, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
Wow just a week ago I was climbing there in shorts and a t shirt.

Seasons change quickly sometimes. Looks like you drew to the inside straight and made it!

Thanks for the stoke..it is gonna be a long winter...brrrr.

Dave R
pvalchev

Social climber
Truckee, CA
  Nov 7, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
Way to go, Tom! Still need to visit that place... funny thing is, I thought about it for this last weekend but hit the valley instead. Would have been funny to run into you there otherwise :)
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Author's Reply  Nov 7, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
Peter,

ha ha, I rarely see people there on sunny weekends, it would have blown me away to see someone in there after 6" of snow! Do you have a good vehicle? It's nice to have just in case it snows another 6" on the hike back to the truck!

Nate you'd have loved it. Mine were numb for the first climb but not after that.
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Nov 7, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
Woohoo!

You stole one from the "snow gods."

Great report.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Nov 8, 2011 - 12:15am PT
This one reminds me of a Rhodesian Ridgeback...



looks cool
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Author's Reply  Nov 8, 2011 - 03:05pm PT
yeah that thing was bristling
the whole wall in fact was covered with knobs
the cruxes came when you encountered the blank spots, requiring you to link 'em.

gotta love Shuteye
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Author's Reply  Nov 20, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
Dang-it I shoulda went yesterday Nov. 19! I passed and now it's snowing buckets...
wack-N-dangle

Gym climber
the ground up
  Nov 20, 2011 - 09:22pm PT
Slater,

Yesterday morning, clean 2-3 ft. sunny. This morning, washing machine full, blowing rain.

Hope you find more better at lower elevation and lattitude.

is there an emoticon for shaka?

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