Trip Report
Smith Rock & the Things that Matter TR
Wednesday October 29, 2014 3:53pm
The more we climb as a family and more we teach our little kids to climb….the more we remember how climbing humbles us -- It teaches us how to depend on each other and and it functions to nurture the friendships which bring us together in beautiful places.

Last week we left straight from Church on Sunday afternoon and drove 11 hours to Smith Rock arriving at our campsite at midnight. It only take 9 hours if you drive straight there from Vancouver, BC….but one of our little kids require things like milk....and our toddler has to pee more than any human being I know. So we stop at coffee shops along the way:

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

It had been 8.5 years since we were there. It was good to go back. 8.5 years ago our trip ended abrubtly after Heidi took a long lead fall and injured her ankle on a climb called Wedding Day.

top left corner top right corner
9 gallon buckets I think?
9 gallon buckets I think?
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

The first time we went to Smith Rock….we didn’t have kids. Now we have three. “I hope they like it”, I whispered to myself as my family slept in the car while I set up tents under a cold midnight sky.

With high hopes for climbing MonkeyFace we were disapointed to wake-up Monday morning to rain. My disapointmet didn’t last long. “Remember where you are!” I told myself. And my kids didn’t seem to mind….they’ll play anywhere. “Maybe I need to learn how to be as flexible and understanding as them” I wondered to myself.

Tuesday we woke up under beautiful skies! My partner Oli and I left our campsite early to hike to the base of a beautiful multi-pitch in Smith. We followed the crooked river and found what we were looking for. I said to my friend, “Oli, we are in a beautiful place! Today is going to be a great day! Let’s climb!”. He led the first pitch.

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

It didn’t go well. He looked sick and unwell when I arrived at the belay. It was clear we had to go down. After rapelling, he said “I feel terrible that I’ve wasted the day. I’m so sorry, Joe.” I suppose I could have rubbed it in….after all, we did drive 11 hours to go to Smith Rock. That’s a long way to travel to just camp!

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

I remembered where we were -- Smith Rock! I remembered who I was with -- a friend! I remembered what climbing is about for me – humility and constantly reminding me how to nurture the friendships which bring us together in beautiful places.

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

I said, “Well, I suppose I am disapointed that we aren’t climbing. But I am not disapointed in you. I am really proud that you made the right decision in going down. That was a hard decision to make…and you made it. That’s something to celebrate.” Honestly, those were hard words to say….I wanted to climb!....but they were true words – and true words are the best words to speak.

Smith Rock round 2 was not turning out how we planned! -- and the next morning….it rained. But we decided to climb anyway. A few short routes in between showers was all we had time for.

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

It wasn’t until later in the day that the sun parted the clouds and Heidi and I were able to get away for an hour while our friends watched our kids. We both got a spectacular climb in, on dry rock, on a beautiful part of the Picnic Lunch Wall.

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
I'm the little dot up high.  Where's waldo?
I'm the little dot up high. Where's waldo?
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

That same day, as the sun set on Smith Rock….we left Smith, driving through the night to get back to work in the morning. True adventure …. 3 little kids now asleep in the car, conversation in the front seat, and thankful to have had the chance to be away for a few days under the stars.

Sure…we didn’t climb much….yes….we had rain….but we were together. And I suppose, at the end of the day, that’s what really mattered.

Maybe in another 8 years we’ll be back and actually get more routes in….but one thing is for sure:

We’ll be together.

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: SeaToSky
bottom left corner bottom right corner


  Trip Report Views: 2,792
SeaToSky
About the Author
SeaToSky is a mountain climber from Vancouver, BC.

Comments
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Oct 29, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
hey there say, seatosky...

say, i loved this trip report, so very extra much!
i have very dear friend in smith rock area, and they see it
daily from their house/ranch...

thank you so much! i love the family kid stuff...
that is how my life used to me, so long agao...


:)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Oct 29, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
Smith, WOOT!!



































Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 29, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
Beautiful family bro, thanks for taking us along!!!
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
  Oct 29, 2014 - 04:22pm PT
Very nice TR, and a very good reminder of the reasons why we do this crazy little thing called climbing. Thanks for the fresh perspective, sometimes it's good to be reminded that even if things don't go "according to plan" there is a silver lining just about everywhere.
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
  Oct 29, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
what's goin' on here? you've just barely been on ST and you're already posting bitchin' climbing TRs? but we hardly know you. Are you skeptical about climate change? do you think Republicans are wrong about everything? and what about the massive ark on the backside of the moon? and chemtrails? let's not get ahead of ourselves for cryin' out loud!
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
  Oct 29, 2014 - 06:04pm PT
Thanks for making me smile. Sitting here on the sofa with my little muppet and I read your TR aloud and we scrolled through the pictures together. She loved it!

Welcome, and look forward to hearing more about your adventures!

Great share.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Oct 29, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
Nice new upside to Supertopo. Some of us old guys are right there with your toddler in needing frequent pee breaks but we don't manage the same great smile.
couchmaster

climber
  Oct 29, 2014 - 06:19pm PT

What a great mindset you have! I bet it was torrential in a near biblical way back up in BC and you got some sweet mileage in at Smith and still took care of the kids (the real "things that matter") and gave them an adventure!

Best to you all
nah000

climber
now/here
  Oct 29, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
¡¡¡¡¡¡awesome!!!!!!

way to bring the stoke.

don't let the "cool" sounding kids hanging in the back halls coerce you into a life of commenting on republicans, climate change or religion...

don't change and continue to raise the classiness of this joint with your contributions...

damn i love smith.

[you're even pulling me out of the gutter already - if it wasn't for the tone of your tr, i would have started that last sentence with a good ole f-bomb... hahaha.]
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Oct 29, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
Thanks for posting up!

The wife and I got a little bit more climbing in on our trip from SoCal, hope you enjoy:

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Well-Rest-When-Were-Dead-Smith-Rock-TR-w-Pics/t11711n.html

Josh Nash

Social climber
riverbank ca
  Oct 29, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
that's so cool.
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Oct 29, 2014 - 07:28pm PT
Nice! Your kids will remember these trips.
lars
Andrew Barnes

Ice climber
Albany, NY
  Oct 29, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
This post takes me on the spiritual quest that climbing can be - if approached the right way. It is not about the number of pitches, not about the grade of the climb, not about any of the superficial trappings of success. This post is really a breath of fresh air.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Oct 30, 2014 - 01:30pm PT
Atta boy. Way to get out and wander and explore and make lemons out of lemonade. The worst day in the wild is better than the best day sitting at home channel surfing.


The spirit of adventure is strong with this one......
Grinching

Trad climber
State of Confusion
  Nov 4, 2014 - 09:15pm PT
[photo[photo[photoid=384986]id=384986]id=384986]
SeaToSky

Mountain climber
Fresno, CA
Author's Reply  Nov 4, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
Love that photo, Grinching! Thanks for sharing.
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Nov 5, 2014 - 07:45am PT
Looks like an old-school shot of "Free Lunch", Grinching? One of my early Smithy scare-fests. Cool picture!

Thanks for the TR bump, SeatoSky - can't wait to get back there!

Great-looking family!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Nov 5, 2014 - 09:19am PT
Great TR! Let me know if you're ever cruising through Seattle, and need a place to stay. Your kids can play on my garage wall, and we can talk climbing (or...even climb!)
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Nov 5, 2014 - 09:33am PT
I think you're going to fit in well in the Fresno area
Go