Trip Report
South Greenland

by David C
Monday January 23, 2017 2:01pm
This place should be on everyone's tick list:

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Credit: David C
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https://www.coldmountainkit.com/knowledge/articles/the-british-route-on-nalumasortoq-greenland/


  Trip Report Views: 2,925
David C 		About the Author
David C is a trad climber from UK.

Comments
looks easy from here

climber
Santa Cruzish
  Jan 23, 2017 - 04:14pm PT
Pooping in a paper bag? Boldest choice of the expedition! And where's the 5.6 I was promised? :p

Except for the bugs it sounds fun.

Edit: And thanks for following up on your questions from last summer. It's always fun to hear when grand plans work out.
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Jan 23, 2017 - 04:10pm PT
Top tip, don’t bring three ropes the same colour on a wall

Awesome! Pull the green rope...
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Jan 23, 2017 - 06:51pm PT
Sunstroke in Greenland? Can there be greater proof of climate change? And I heartily approve of your bear sussing with regard to which of your mates would afford the best attraction to the beast in place of you. And I speak with some authority having denied, almost strictly by luck, a white bear a good meal (if I do say so) in Alaska. ;-)

Most excellent reportage!

I was a few months from a trip there yonks ago but my mate had the ill grace to get the chop. Then I got married. :-/
Risk

Mountain climber
Marooned, 855 miles from Tuolumne Meadows
  Jan 23, 2017 - 07:48pm PT
Outstanding!
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
  Jan 24, 2017 - 05:07am PT
Excellent. Thanks.Sounds like a perfect trip.
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
  Jan 24, 2017 - 07:45am PT
My what big cams you have..... Great TR, wonderful morning read with my coffee, and fabulous photos. It must have been just a great trip. Don't hesitate to do more and post them up, mate.
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
  Jan 25, 2017 - 12:40am PT
Aah, that was a cool TR from a great area!

That base camp sure looks crowded! With three friends I climbed in Tasermiut for four weeks in 1987. Didn't see a soul.

David, the new route you tried to put up, was that in the glaciated valley behind Nalumasortoq? Ever since 1987 I have been thinking about that west facing wall somewhat up the glacier. Seems like it has a dihedral running all the way up to the summit, not too hard looking. Except for the glacier and seracs on the approach. Some day I'll have to go and look...!

Two pictures, one from Ketil Pyramid, 1987 and one taken from a helicopter in 1994, during a gold prospecting project. Nalumatortoq is the white wall in centre, with the glacier behind leading up this possibly unclimbed face.
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
  Jan 25, 2017 - 12:47am PT

Nalumartoq, central, with Ketil Pyramid to the left (Swiss Route running up along the dark buttres, and mighty Ketil at the left edge.

David C

Trad climber
UK
Author's Reply  Jan 25, 2017 - 03:48am PT
Michael,
no, it was on the back side of Ulamertorsuaq.

That sure is an impressive face you have spotted. What is the glazier likely to be like?
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
  Jan 25, 2017 - 04:06am PT
Crevassed!

Here's a screenshot of the glacier from Google Earth; unfortunately I have not found any 'real' photos.

It does not look easy...!
David C

Trad climber
UK
Author's Reply  Jan 25, 2017 - 07:43am PT
Michael, looks like we need a rich American or Canadian (as they will be closer) who fancies the climb of his/her life to rent a helicopter for a few hours so we can get a better look. Why climb Everest, when you could get the chance to name a whole rock face (or even a mountain).

Know anyone rich?
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
  Jan 25, 2017 - 10:38am PT
No, unfortunately not. But I can only kick myself for not pressing the pilot to go a few km further, now that I did get him to cross the fjord from the goldmine area below Kirkespiret/Churchspire...!
EdwardT

Trad climber
Retired
  Jan 25, 2017 - 10:53am PT
Awesome TR

Here's a song to go with that bear.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 26, 2017 - 04:11am PT
A grand adventure with friends!
You are very lucky.
Cheers!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Jan 26, 2017 - 11:43pm PT
hey there say, ... wow, neat share, thanks soooo much!
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Jan 26, 2017 - 11:45pm PT
Yow. Za!
Bald Eagle

Trad climber
  Jan 27, 2017 - 03:00am PT
Excellent Trip Report and Images David! And a very funny read too... ;-)
Cheers
Dave
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jan 27, 2017 - 06:19am PT
!





C'mon folks! Highest Quality Here, the caption read ; there's always one on every exhibition ! , Post up !








*+ ! ! v V V V v*I left the 'Bag shot' out of my grab & share
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Jan 27, 2017 - 06:57pm PT
OMG
I didn't need to see a photo of a paper bag
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
  Jan 27, 2017 - 05:50am PT
A few miles away (and some years back), we followed the same tradition of showing our equipment, most of it...:


What you cannot see are the zillions of mosquitos having a feast! But we felt them:
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jan 27, 2017 - 06:25am PT
^ ^ ^ ^ Monster mo-Skeeters!

I see 'uge shrinkage but massive style points ! <\%^O
David C

Trad climber
UK
Author's Reply  Jan 28, 2017 - 06:49am PT
Thanks for the nice comments everyone, and if you have the time I would really recommend visiting the place.
7SacredPools

Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
  Jan 28, 2017 - 07:12am PT
Fantastic, hilarious TR, thanks for posting!

BTW, anyone read the article on East Greenland in the Feb. Mar. "Training" issue of Climbing? The problems facing the native population are truly depressing.
David C

Trad climber
UK
Author's Reply  Jan 29, 2017 - 03:19pm PT
7SacredPools,

tough place, and I would recommend a visit to climb, or just to support the local population.
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