Trip Report
Standing Rock
Thursday March 31, 2016 10:39pm
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I didn't see any previous reports of this tower, so I thought I would post up a short TR.
My friend Charles and I decided to go check out Standing Rock in Canyonlands. After a few days of climbing towers around Moab, this would be the last on our short tour of classics in the area.
After climbing Washer Woman the previous day, we drove further down the White Rim and eventually pulled into a small wash and began looking for the descent gully. A few minutes later we located a short rappel and hiked into the drainage.
After a short hike we made it to the base of the tower.
The first pitch is a great stemming corner to a roof. After traversing right under the roof, you follow a wandering crack to a nice ledge (sorry no photos).
The next pitch climbs another wandering crack through some exciting bulges, past some old fixed relics, and to another comfortable ledge with three drilled pins, a star drive, and a 1/4" button head.
The 3rd pitch has a short 11+ crux to fun 5.10 face climbing. After that you can link with the 4th pitch which involves crumbly runout climbing while spiraling around the tower to the summit. Great views and a unique summit to end our short trip.
Two double rope rappels put us on the ground and we hiked back out to some cold beers waiting in the truck.
Cheers!
kalockwood
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About the Author kalockwood is a climber from Salt Lake City. |
Comments
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nice! I've done Monster Tower and Washer Woman but Standing Rock remains on the short list.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Like like a great one!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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What a cool formation, big thanks for posting.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nice Work Men!
Blitzo at the first belay.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Been thru that basin twice. A fantasy land beyond description.
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Lurkingtard
climber
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Can you aid the crux? Asking for a friend. I'm sure I'd float it, no problem.
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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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Great job Kevin, very beautiful remote area...wish I was there! Thanks for posting.
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kalockwood
climber
Salt Lake City
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Author's Reply
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Apr 2, 2016 - 07:52am PT
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Can you aid the crux?
Yes, it would be pretty easy to pull on draws through the crux. The whole tower could be lead at 5.10 A0.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Awesome job .... Standing Rock is really an awesome tower and cool summit, and the cleanest of all the towers in Monument Basin. I did the 2nd or 3rd free ascent back in the mid-90's and recall a really bad bolt about half out on the crux...I imagine that's been replaced since.
Anyway, congrats and way to go. There are some other really good towers out there.....
Paul
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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We did it with Todd Gordon and DE EE in the mid 80s
aided it of course, didn't know it goes free now
Did you guys find some of the cool red and purple Jasper near the base?
I still have the best piece on my shelf
Also found some calcite crystals.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Short list, indeed! Did 't know there were any towers still legal to climb. ;-)
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Monument Basin is in Canyonlands. Monument Valley is further south on the Utah Arizona border....
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Is this the first belay referenced in the TR? What's with the bolts? Gear to supplement it? Giant ledge?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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You guys ROCK
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kalockwood
climber
Salt Lake City
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Author's Reply
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Apr 3, 2016 - 08:34am PT
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Is this the first belay referenced in the TR? What's with the bolts? Gear to supplement it? Giant ledge?
Yes this is the first belay but you don't have to use these bolts. There are two bomber bolts with chains you use instead.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Great to hear Standing Rock is still standing! Sounds like you had a fun time.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Killer.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Excellent TR, so I forgive the lack of pictures for the first pitch.
;-)
When I first heard about this climb, the aid was in the A4 range, and the climb was considered one of the most frightening in the desert. It's interesting to read how time changes perspectives.
Thanks again for the trip report.
John
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Apr 19, 2016 - 08:48am PT
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ttt for climbing
Thanks, spectacular place from above or below. Been in there twice using the old roadway from the west. You can walk from the White Rim road or ride your bike quite a ways back to where the wash starts down. Very enjoyable hike but takes quite a bit longer than the rappel. We had a multi-day biking permit one late October for a bike trip that didn't happen and were camped at White Crack so decided to give the Standing Rock a go. Did the first pitch and realized we weren't going to summit and make it to Taylor Canyon in the same day. That first pitch is great, just superb, but we rapped and managed to get to Potato Bottom after dark. Would like to go back just for this summit.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:32am PT
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Hnnnnnnnnghh
Awesome thank you
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