Trip Report
Stoner's Highway 5.11.13
Wednesday May 15, 2013 12:50pm
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Somehow Peter and I both got psyched for some Middle Cathedral face climbing. I think in my case the psyche came from the DNB thread on the taco. So we considered Ho Chi Min or Stoner's and since we were driving up that am from the bay decided on the latter.
Overall it was an excellent, clean, route characterized by 30.20.10 - that is 30' run on 5.8, 20 on 5.9 and so forth. It never felt that bad really, but I would give it at least a PG. The route definitely keeps your attention and also proves slow to lead as there is significant micro route finding, back and forth etc....All the belays except the first are two new bolts and are set up to rap.
The crux was definitely the first pitch. That was a hot one and I soaked my shirt getting through the traverse. We both thought pitch 6 was not that bad going to the right. The second crux for me was pitch 9 after the second bolt. I went up and down a few times not wanting to commit to an off balance high step and the possible slider. Fortunately, Peter scoffed at my wimpering, pointing out how clean the fall was and how shiny and new the bolt looked down below my feet. We sent.
Go do it !
David Wilson
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About the Author David Wilson is a climber from CA. |
Comments
cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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May 15, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
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Awesome thanks! When did the route go into the shade. I'd rather avoid sun on the first pitch.
Did any of the anchors have old slings that need to be replaced for rappelling?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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May 15, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
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Quite a bit steeper than I remember.
Great photos. Fun route. A little spicy.
JL
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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May 15, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
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Bump!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Author's Reply
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May 15, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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John, that pic probably is a bit tipped
Luke, only tat is on the top of P1. We had sun in our eyes for most of the route, so maybe the shade starts around 1230 or 1.....a guess.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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May 15, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
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The traverses set up for some really nice perspective pics! Good job guys.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 15, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
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sweet David.
Would love to do that line.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 15, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
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Stoner Stoke!
Thanks for the beta and photos.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 15, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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I remember jamming velvet moss on P10, up to the tree. Yeah, that P1 is an attention getter! The wondrous Middle...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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May 15, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
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Nice
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
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May 15, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
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Beautiful ... and worthy!
Thanks for sharing!!
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Mar 12, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
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bump
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Sep 26, 2014 - 11:11am PT
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Hhahahaaha oh man, 30/20/10 bump.
Where do we sign up for the 15/10/5 leads?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 26, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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Thanks, David, for the TR, and thanks to those who bumped it. I did the Powell-Reed in 1973 around the time that Stoner's Highway was coming into existence. What a great face! As Largo says, though, Stoner's Highway has some spicy climbing.
John
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Sep 26, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
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Good job!
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Sep 26, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
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Great pics on one of my favorite routes ever.
Good job!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Sep 26, 2014 - 02:41pm PT
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cool photos!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Sep 26, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
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I must've missed this the first time round. I had set out to do this with Ken Trout last early October, but was kicked out of the Valley that very morning of our planned ascent because of the national park closures. I had scoped it out on a rest day the day before, and it appeared that the traverse on the first pitch had at least three more bolts than when I had done it in the mid-late 1970's and what the yellow George Meyers guide shows. The guide shows a bolt at the beginning and one at the end. When I saw this I was both a little disappointed and a bit relieved, I suppose. Never did get to try it last year.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Sep 26, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
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stunning yet scary
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Sep 26, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
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^^^ oversized backslap ... dizzy with regard, grateful for the impetus. hell, call it causality
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sep 27, 2014 - 02:27am PT
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So Good that's
getting it done!
Good job!,
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Sep 27, 2014 - 06:29am PT
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Really cool route....excellent TR. TFPU!!!6!!!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Nice!
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