Trip Report
TR 2008-12-10 Scuffy's Redwood Terror (OW)
Tuesday December 30, 2008 7:35pm
One might think that a climbing destination with a single short pitch can hardly yield a decent workout. Said one would not have visited Scuffy's Redwood Terror.

We begin with a lesson from the host and master:
top left corner top right corner
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Holding the La Sportiva Enduros, tools of choice for the evening:
top left corner top right corner
bottom left corner bottom right corner

And move on to the demonstration in the intimate setting:
top left corner top right corner
bottom left corner bottom right corner

He makes it look easy. It is not easy. I heard murmurings of "harder than Cream." I wouldn't know because the only cream I found was the skin of my ankles, knees, and hands mashed to a pulp in a Herculean effort to keep from spitting out. And I am not yet worthy: I cheated. I pulled on the toggle bolts way inside... let's just pretend they were tube chocks I set and it's fair game? I guess there's no penalty if the ref didn't see it.

Here's Rob proving that Gaston is not the move of choice, and Gary with the helpful beta pointing which way to go:
top left corner top right corner
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Then there's Gary, with an unfair advantage of having his own hideous crack machine:
Getting that knee up high past the first roof is a key:
top left corner top right corner
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Oh, sweet pain and suffering!
top left corner top right corner
bottom left corner bottom right corner

But he does that hand-stack like a pro:
top left corner top right corner
bottom left corner bottom right corner

And wrastle's past that second roof and into the switching-sides maneuver:
top left corner top right corner
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Is that a foot-knee stack? Oh, the insanity!
top left corner top right corner
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Well, it worked for him:
top left corner top right corner
bottom left corner bottom right corner


Fortunately, there were no pictures of my grimacing. I applied Brute Force for the first panel, and was dead after clearing the first roof. Had a good no-hands rest off a thigh-torque to recover, and touched the glorious top after a few questionable moves that spoiled the OW purity. But it was a much better showing than my trip earlier in the year where I couldn't clear the first roof.


I did spent about 10 minutes with my head between my legs trying not to vomit when I got down. I asked which bushes were OK to spew in. I think I might be allowed back some day because I managed to hold it in. But it was close. I was worked. One lap was enough for me. Gary and Scuffy eat that stuff up, and did a few laps each. I guess it's good to have some heroes to look up to.

Epilogue:

It is day 20 since the encounter, and my hand scab that was the size of a nickel is healing nicely. It went through several rounds of infection and misguided soakings/rippings, but yesterday the scab finally brushed off to reveal pink raw skin beneath, and no puss to speak of. Just in time to rough it up tonight.

  Trip Report Views: 1,505
nutjob
About the Author
nutjob is a climber from Berkeley, CA.

Comments
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Dec 30, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
hey there nutjob... oh my........... say, who would have ever thought...

say, thanks for the great share and with pics, makes it "tops"... otherwise, someone like me, would not have had a clue, what was going on...

great share, and lots of fun, too... say, even interesting--as, imaginative...

:)


*say, edit: why did your pics here, download so fast for me... ? many other pics take too long, and you had a lot of them here, too... hmmm, wonder why... ?
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Dec 30, 2008 - 07:46pm PT
hey there nutjob... say, i just thought of this... the ol' neighbors must wonder what you guys are up to... such, as perhaps practicing to "burgle" a high-rise, or something... man, oh, man....

sure hope they know that you guys are "greatoutdoorsmans" of the climbing-rocks-type-sort... when rocks are about, that is...

:)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Dec 30, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
see you tonight!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 30, 2008 - 07:56pm PT
The best blow by blow of the scuffinator, yet! Have fun tonight you crazy kids!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Dec 30, 2008 - 08:19pm PT
film at 11
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Dec 30, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
The horror, the horror :)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 30, 2008 - 08:31pm PT
There's some strange things a foot, down to the Sunol clocktower...
divad

Trad climber
wmass
  Dec 30, 2008 - 09:40pm PT
Looks like cruel and unusual punishment.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Dec 30, 2008 - 09:44pm PT
looks like some wide fetish material, fo sho......

Trainin' fer glory?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Dec 31, 2008 - 03:25am PT
as promised, film... a little later than 11, but not by much... go look at the the other nutjob thread

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=753825
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Dec 31, 2008 - 11:38am PT
Think of it like this, Dingus.

There's a buttress (sheathed Redwood) with a detached flake
(the bookshelves) which forms a corner.

I found a great title the other day:

The Map That Changed the World

Wm Smith develops the 1st geologic map,working on it alone
for 20 years.

Cheers
sm
Zander

climber
  Dec 31, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
Nutjob's post makes it seen like scuffy's OW is pretty hard. Well, don't believe it. It's way harder than that!
Z
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
  Dec 31, 2008 - 01:23pm PT
Looks like fun, but different... ;-)
Dr. Rock

Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
  Dec 31, 2008 - 01:28pm PT
I kinda don't get it.

somebody has some 'splainin' to do.
that was my place man.
so what if i was late a couple of times.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Dec 31, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
I feel sick.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 31, 2008 - 02:00pm PT
Yeah, fun And different...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jan 5, 2009 - 12:11pm PT
hahahaha
DJS

Trad climber
  Mar 19, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
Bump
DJS

Trad climber
  Mar 19, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
Bump
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Mar 19, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
I believe it has not had an ascent in 2009....
DJS

Trad climber
  Mar 19, 2009 - 09:10pm PT
Bump
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Mar 20, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
Sad but true, Jay.
Next date has to be set by a guest.
No damage sustained over the Winter.
just waiting...
matisse

climber
  Mar 20, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
Like crimpie, I think my stomache hurts.
spyork

Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
  Mar 20, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
Fire that thing up Scuffy!

My last OW climb was marred by a weak performance by myself. Need more training!
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Mar 20, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
very cool!!

i would love to get in on the wide training with you guys one of these days............

looks like scuffs, and the others are ready for bugalooo 3!!!!!!!!

cheers,

patrick
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 1, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
Those brits got nothing on you guys.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
  Nov 1, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
I found it easier to just lieback that dreaded thing.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 1, 2011 - 05:00pm PT
Instead of climbing it?
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
  Nov 1, 2011 - 05:40pm PT
Jaybro, spoken like a true off-width aficionado.
Go