In Jim Erickson’s 1980 guidebook “Rocky Heights”, he describes the Naked Edge in Eldorado; “An exceptional classic, it was likely the most difficult long free climb in the country when it was first done. The vectorial line, the infinitely varied climbing and the inimitable exposure combine to create an unforgettable climbing experience”. The route was first free climbed in October, 1971. 39 years have since passed and the “Edge" remains an undisputed classic.
While certainly not at the extreme edge of difficulty by today’s standards (5.11b), the Edge still provides a fantastic climbing experience and is found on the hit lists of many aspiring climbers. One’s first trip up the Edge is especially memorable, given its history and reputation.

On a warm and sunny afternoon last month, fellow Taco member “GOclimb” was keen to head up the Edge for his first time and I was happy to join in the fun. We met at the Eldo lot after work and left the car about 3:30pm.

It’s important to start your first trip up the Edge with a confident, “can do” attitude as you can see GO displaying in the photo below…
However, it’s not unusual to show just a hint of fear and hesitation at the same time. After all, there’s the finger crack, the heinous chimney pitch and the evil black ramp to contend with along with several other challenging sections…
After simul climbing 230’ of easy terrain to the base of the route, GO took off up the first pitch, a beautiful thin finger crack in an obtuse dihedral.
He styled his way up to the crux section, pulled that after a little thought and found himself working through the final thin tips jams below the belay.
The crowd was cheering him on and success was so near when a slight slip of the foot caused GO to experience gravitational acceleration for just a few feet… the free cold one for onsighting the first pitch was lost, but his enthusiasm was not. GO quickly shook out and completed the pitch without further incident.

I followed the pitch, grabbed the gear and linked the next two pitches together to put us at the base of the chimney pitch. Pitch 2 of the Edge is very cool, with some beautiful and exposed transition moves around the arête, followed by a tricky section just before the belay.
Pitch 3 generally follows the arête with easier climbing. As you can see from the picture below, GO was psyched with the quality of pitches 2 & 3…
Next up is the infamous chimney pitch. This pitch requires a variety of climbing skills and although short, it keeps your attention and gets the blood pumping. Here I am up in the slot, about ready to exit the roof and traverse over to the classic and exposed belay below the last pitch.
Here are some pics of GO seconding the chimney pitch, which he did so in grand style and with a minimum of heavy breathing – good job GO!
Now its time for the final pitch… In Godfrey and Chelton’s book “Climb”, the authors have this to say about the 5th pitch of the Edge; “Many modern climbers have successfully climbed the first four leads of the Naked Edge free, only to fail on this strenuous final section”. Indeed, I have witnessed said behavior many times. Would GO fire the infamous final pitch? The lead was his call, but being a little concerned with the amount of daylight remaining, he opted to second and let the old guy lead.

This pitch is in your face right off the belay with strenuous and awkward moves up a steep, slick ramp. At the top of the ramp is a fantastically exposed spot where you transition around the corner to a “rest” fingerlock on the overhanging prow, with 600’ of air under your butt – quite a place! I took a moment to grab a photo of GO hanging out at the belay before heading up the final crack and on to the summit.
Sitting on top of the Edge, belaying and watching the sun set on a beautiful afternoon is an experience not to be missed. As I did so, I could tell that GO was moving up the pitch pretty quickly – he was doing well and I hoped he was enjoying it as much as possible. Soon, I could see him come out onto the final easy section that leads to the summit. He let out a loud hoot and you could see he was quite fired up to be finishing the Edge for his first time! The swallows swarmed and did their usual fly by’s in approval!
On top, we shook chalked hands, exchanged stories about our experience and watched the last of the sun disappear in the west over the high peaks as the moon was rising in the east. How can you beat a beautiful late summer afternoon on the Edge?? It’s the best way to forget you even went into work that morning...
My thoughts drifted back to my first time on the Edge in August, 1983… I’ve grown older, more gray and wiser(?), but the Edge remains the same – one of the great classic climbs in Colorado… get up there and enjoy it!