Trip Report
TR: The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite. March 20-24

by Cheyne
Thursday April 29, 2010 11:18pm
The trip report is in my blog. Enjoy!

http://cheynelempe.blogspot.com/2010/04/my-first-big-wall-and-my-first-trip-to.html

I hope this gets some of you psyched for climbing in the valley!!
See you there in May.

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Cheyne
bottom left corner bottom right corner

  Trip Report Views: 3,514
Cheyne 		About the Author
Cheyne is a big wall climber from CO.

Comments
enjoimx

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Apr 29, 2010 - 11:59pm PT
Great trip report, nice job climbing through the fear and pain!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Apr 30, 2010 - 11:11am PT
Great TR and really awesome suffering control!

I might mention though that you guys were real lucky the weather didn't get worse. I noticed someone climbing with jeans and you mentioned down sleeping bags. You know both cotton and down are useless after they get wet, don't you?

You did it, and you did a great job but you dodged a bullet, you might not be so lucky next time. I'd invest in some good clothes and synthetic sleeping bags before your next El Cap climb.
Cheyne

Big Wall climber
CO
Author's Reply  Apr 30, 2010 - 11:53am PT
Mark,
yes we both knew that cotton and down doesn't stay warm when wet. We were both wearing synthetic clothes for the most part, and weren't wearing jeans. I wore cotton socks though.. my shoes didn't dry out the whole trip. I had a synthetic sleeping bag and stayed nice and toasty, but my partner had the down bag.

Climbing this made me realize how important having the right gear is. I had an ok rain jacket that was more water 'resistant'. I feel that it would have made the entire climb easier had I not been wet, physically and mentally. A good bivy sack was also absolutely necessary. I get scared thinking how I almost bought something really cheap, or didn't even buy one. Luckily I invested in the black diamond big wall bivy, and was very happy I did.

I'd like to note that we both got better rain jackets, and he got a synthetic bag without question after our trip.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Apr 30, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
All in all, it was a great experience, you completed the route and you learned a lot. I'd give it two thumbs up!
Paulina

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  May 2, 2010 - 09:34am PT
Very impressive perseverance, guys! Nicely done.
Port

Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden 🇸🇪
  May 5, 2010 - 02:00pm PT
Great trip report! thanks guys.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  May 5, 2010 - 03:32pm PT
this is a great report and a great experience. Way to go guys!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  May 5, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
awesome trip report!!!!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  May 6, 2010 - 12:55am PT
Proud.

Mucci
BriGuy

climber
black hills, south dakota
  May 6, 2010 - 04:49pm PT
Nice job guys and thanks for posting that link. That was a fun read and I'm glad you expressed your mental thoughts throughout the route. Inspiring for someone who has little big wall experience. Congratulations!
rodermck

Social climber
san jose ca.
  May 9, 2010 - 02:38am PT
epic climb by 2 new big wall climbers in horrible conditions and keeping a postive attitude made for injoyable watching
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  May 9, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
Great job!
I saw you guys up there in the grey bands.
Nice tr too!
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
  May 9, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
great tr and vids... drljefe and i were in the meadow watching you pass the boot... happy to see the elation after the challenge was met.

~
moronbros

Mountain climber
Seatte, North Cascades
  May 10, 2010 - 01:19am PT
Were those far-away pics from Tom Evans? They're RAD! I bet he liked your green jacket.

Great TR. good idea to take some videos and share. For someone with little aid experience as well, I'm looking forward to climbing there soon.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
  May 13, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
Awesome job guys!! As someone else mentioned, where did your photographer perch at? Those pics were amazing and I hope I have someone do the same for us when we eventually make that climb. Your TR has definitely psyched me up even more for El Cap! Looking forward to more of your TRs!

Cheers!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Jul 6, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
A few months later Colin and Cheyne stormed up the Nose in a Day! I was hanging above them on Tribal Rite. Here is a shot of them on Boot Flake.
Go
Recent Trip Reports