Trip Report
Tajikistan 2
Monday July 18, 2011 6:34pm
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These two peaks came into view. The next day the whole crew made the trek up to a lovely meadow at 12,000 feet for a little first ascenting. We were the first climbers to visit, the Russians who had been in Tajikistan for 60 years, had opted for the big, snow peaks in the main range.
Bo and I had dibs and picked the highest of the rocky peaks. Jen, Chris and Mikey opted for a triangular shaped tower and Jessie and Darren set their sights on a peak just to the right of ours.
Everyone bagged summits except for Bo and me, our project was a little more than we had expected. From the camp at 12,000ft we had an arduous 2,000ft. aproach up a loose, steep gulley followed by 600 vertical feet of third classing. We then climbed 4 fun pitches only to find that we had a lot of climbing ahead of us and not enough daylight left. After a career of cold, miserable, unplanned bivys I opted to go down and come back with a new strategy.
The others had found easier lines up their climbs with only a couple of fifth class pitches.
Clearly, that would not be the case for us.
We moved our camp from 12 to 14,000 ft. and were determined to get an early start.
We left camp at 6;30, not quite as early as planned, and embarked on what would be 12 pitches of Sierra type climbing. Tricky route finding, good rock on steep sections but some debris on ledges and a couple of raps from towers that would have to be reversed on the descent- the Sierras on steroids. After every headwall another one would come into play. Finally at 4:00 PM, the ground around us dropped away and we found ourselves on the summit. The view from the previously unclimbed 16,000 ft summit made the day. The descent required the usual raps but also a couple of fifth class pitches and was a little
time consuming.
We got back to camp a half an hour after dark. 14.5 hours, 14 total pitches and 2000 vertical feet of climbing up to 5.10 with 20 ft. of A1- a great day!
Before leaving to go back to Dushanbe we had an opportunity to go to a Saturday bazaar in Afghanistan. Chris and Jen with booty.
After another arduous 15 hour drive we were treated to a Summer evening in Dushanbe before the flight home.
donini
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About the Author donini is a trad climber from Ouray, Colorado. |
Comments
karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 18, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
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Yeah! Dude you rocked it. Thank you so much for sharing your experience. That's it im going to the sierras this weekend.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 18, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
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What the hell is this? Some kind of climbing site or something?
Where is the politics?
Where are the flame wars?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 18, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
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Adventure, scenery, virgin peaks, and it even looks like it was fun! Oh yeah!
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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Jul 18, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
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I travelled a little in Central Asia when I was a kid, and there was so much rock - I keep dreaming of going back - thank you for keeping that obsession alive !
Afghanistan was always one of my favorite places (this was before the Soviet invasion) so good to see people going back there again.
steve
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jul 18, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
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Here we go. Been waiting on this one. Excellent.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 18, 2011 - 07:10pm PT
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Super Jim putting up real TRs. NOW WE'RE GETTING SOMEWHERE!!!!!!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 18, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
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Looks like fun, Jim. Nice of 'em to break out the good Pamir rock for
yous. Where they been keeping that stuff?
Hey, is my plane still at the airport?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 18, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jul 18, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
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That looked awesome Jim - way to go!!
Paul
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jul 18, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
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Wow, my first instinct would have been to pick something that looked more spiky if not as high, but it seems like you struck gold! Tallest in the area plus awesome accessible climbing. Nice!
And overall cultural experience looks great too. That waterfall setup in the garden is beautiful.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 18, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
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Feed me some lies!!! About the last pitch!!
Manteling on sand!!!
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AKTrad
Mountain climber
AK
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Jul 18, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
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'The Sierras on steroids': loved that. Really fine summit photos. The Bazaar shots are beautiful. Hope you came home with some finery for the up-coming parties.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jul 18, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
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This is truely inspirational stuff.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 18, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
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Pretty darn good climbing for an old fart. Glad you survived and shared the story.
Duede!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 18, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
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Jim, we really, REALLY, REALLY want a slide show at Neptune's,
THIS YEAR, please??????
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couchmaster
climber
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Jul 19, 2011 - 10:46pm PT
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Nice jim! Looked like the sierras....16,000 feet high....nope, not the Sierras as it's too high "like" the sierras only. Looks like a good trip as there is no bloody diarrhea or puking like normal. Got any more photos of the people and the culture? Pretty remote spot. Love to see them.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jul 18, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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Very entertaining . . . nice job
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jul 18, 2011 - 11:50pm PT
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thanks Jim, I'm loving the beautiful granite!!!!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Jul 19, 2011 - 12:12am PT
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Been looking forward to this TR since before you left.
It definitely delivers! Wow :)
What more can you ask for than a 12 pitch (14 actual) FA on an untouched granite peak?
Thanks for posting!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jul 19, 2011 - 12:26am PT
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Awesome !
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Jul 19, 2011 - 12:41am PT
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cool as hell trip report Jim, thanks. The topo in full glory.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 19, 2011 - 01:29am PT
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Great story and photos, although they are too small.
Try resizing your photos to 700 pixels wide or even 900 pixels wide, so half-blind guys like me can see them better.
TFPU.
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pc
climber
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Jul 19, 2011 - 02:15am PT
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Great adventure!!! Thanks for sharing.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Jul 19, 2011 - 02:42am PT
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Hey, there's more. Another TajikTR. Excellent. Thanks for the glimpse.
Awesome Mountain. Oh, yeah, TFPU!, too.
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philo
climber
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Jul 19, 2011 - 03:48am PT
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Too wickedly cool.
I've decided I want to be Donini when I grow up.
Cheers Jim you impress the hell out of me. Always have always will.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jul 19, 2011 - 07:01am PT
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Hey Jim,
Great TR! Nice to bag a new route and summit at an "advanced age".
I'll call you this weekend.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jul 19, 2011 - 08:01am PT
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Nice looking rock!
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Jul 19, 2011 - 09:17am PT
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Great stuff donini!
Glad you had an awesome trip.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Jul 19, 2011 - 10:45am PT
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I'm a rookie, next time I'll make the pictures bigger.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 19, 2011 - 11:23am PT
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Load them onto Photobucket and you can keep them large.
But the real question is, did you pass anyone? HA!!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 19, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
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More please!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jul 19, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
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Classic TR. That's some cool looking geography over there, thanks for bringing it here.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 19, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
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Pretty fun TR Jim.
Prod.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Jul 19, 2011 - 08:42pm PT
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I'll make the photos larger next time but if you all had Ipads it wouldn't be a problem.
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Zander
climber
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Jul 20, 2011 - 12:14am PT
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Part two is cool too,
Z
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philo
climber
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Jul 20, 2011 - 12:52am PT
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I'll make the photos larger next time but if you all had Ipads it wouldn't be a problem.
Except, then my not having an ipad would be the problem.
Way to make it our faults Jim. ha.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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May 11, 2014 - 10:25am PT
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Donini's TR's are the best and keeps the Taco classy
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