Trip Report
Taking a day off
Saturday December 20, 2014 10:24pm
|
|
Chiloe had emailed earlier in the year that he'd be in San Francisco in mid-December and wondered if I would have time off to go climbing. With all the usual caveats regarding California winter weather I said I would. I've been practicing for retirement and have cut back to 70% at work, that's 7 hrs a day for four days... and usual 3 day weekends. He thought Friday would be a good time...
Well the weekend of his arrival the weather report has one nice day, Thursday, so I rearranged my schedule and picked him up at the Dublin/Pleasanton BART station. We made our way down to Pinnacles via the East Side. We didn't have any real ambitions... and that was good since my Wednesday gym session was brutal, including the yoga.
On our hike in the brook was running. The young ranger who passed us going up the trail commented that he had never seen it run in his 3.5 year tenure. All the mosses were looking happy and very green, and the lichens were glowing their silver-gray-green color. Every water streak was seeping, if not running water and I wondered if there had been enough time to dry stuff out... it rained in Livermore long into the night.
We got to Discovery Wall and decided to check out the conditions. After a quick run up Swallow Crack it seemed that lots was climbable... things were working out here so Chiloe lead up Jorge's Crack
I remember this being rated 5.10a but apparently it got down rated to 5.9... Chiloe did a good, careful job on his lead and reminded me that the real crux was the traverse over to the belay... which I slipped on being careless with my hand holds... I found the same wet hold that Chiloe found, only I didn't stick the move.
But it was supposed to be a fun day out with no real pressure... I thought I might have a go at Stupendous Man 5.10a since I had been training for that sort of thing... but I found that I didn't have enough left to pull the roof, though I certainly tried it a zillion different ways... just not going to happen. Chiloe went up to give it a go with much the same result.
Our trad spirit had us just back off instead of aiding over the roof, hang dogging it already felt odd... we headed out to the reservoir, I seemed to have remembered some nice place to top rope over their. The sun was already getting lower, and actually it seemed like a little hike might be the final bit of a really mellow day.
The spill way for the reservoir was flowing, hadn't seen that in a very long time
and while I can't post a rad TR with us pushing the limits of any kind of climbing, it wasn't part of the agenda to begin with...
...but getting a bite to eat and a beer and catching up on the happenings in our lives was very much on the agenda. And we succeeded to accomplish that...
The small Mexican restaurant in Tres Pinos had their "closed" sign on when we drove by, so we went into Hollister to find the Grillin' and Chillin' but our phones kept steering us to the one on San Benito, which isn't there anymore... so we wandered around and found a Mexican Grill that had just opened a couple of blocks north and they had good beer and interesting food...
Ed Hartouni
|
|
About the Author Ed Hartouni is a trad climber from Livermore, CA.
|
Comments
apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
|
Ed, you are one of ST's finest gems.
|
|
BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
|
Great pics Ed!
Maybe you shouldn't retire the camera
|
|
ryankelly
climber
Bhumi
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 12:31am PT
|
The mellow inner light that goes along with the Winter Solstice...thanks for posting
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 12:48am PT
|
Sick pics/ post Eduardo.
Supertopo for life.
|
|
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 03:11am PT
|
Nice Ed thanks for all your contributions!
|
|
MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 07:16am PT
|
A gently inspiring TR for those of us in the I Don't Work Anymore club, whose plans for a leisurely climbing day must hazard the urge to "give something a try," and who have the time to go out when friends propose it.
|
|
MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 07:26am PT
|
I miss the Pinnacles, of all things. Thanks for posting up, Ed.
|
|
Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 07:45am PT
|
Thanks Ed, a day in life your posts always have value.
|
|
Gearhead
Trad climber
Novato Ca
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 08:10am PT
|
I love the Pinns, I know I'm sick.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 08:31am PT
|
This trip report is "Rad", you were pushing your limits trying to scale that roof .....
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 09:38am PT
|
Flew home last night to the snow, and this morning it's a delight to discover this TR has sprung up. Ed's rich with tales and ideas, a great guy to spend the day with.
Let me add one more image from day's end: two climber-ish disheveled guys seriously consulting their smartphones as they pace back and forth up one block on the main street in Hollister, unable to find a restaurant that Google Maps claimed was right there. As if there was some spell we should invoke to make it visible. Onlookers seated by the window in a biker bar we kept passing thought our parade was hilarious, and rightly so.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 09:39am PT
|
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 09:57am PT
|
Pinnacles delivers!
Thanks for the report Ed.
Rare to see the water slides going off, a real treat.
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 09:58am PT
|
Looks like a fun day out, Ed.
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 12:08pm PT
|
Rocking!
|
|
BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
|
Two fine scholars on the rock - eggzellent!
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
|
hey there, say, ed... wow, i enjoyed the trip report, ed...
but, wow, i love this part, best, :)
quote:
The spill way for the reservoir was flowing, hadn't seen that in a very long time
:)
|
|
crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 07:04pm PT
|
Nice. This, I understand.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 07:57pm PT
|
Felt like we had the whole park to ourselves.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 09:45pm PT
|
while I can't post a rad TR with us pushing the limits of any kind of climbing, it wasn't part of the agenda to begin with...
I think you tried to push your limits by getting on the roof that challenged you! That's the only thing we could do as climbers, push own limits. While climbing outdoors, in the gym or while in a yoga class. Every day brings a different challenge. At times you feel good and strong and at times it is wise to stop sooner than later. On some days it is important to face the ego and take yourself into the happy baby pose earlier than usually.
Nice report, loved the shot with a waterfall. See ya around!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2014 - 09:53pm PT
|
Sometimes the most humble days are the most magical. Thanks for a great little share.
Scott
|
|
wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2014 - 05:29am PT
|
Thank You for warming up my little existence over here,Ed and Chiloe.
Great Trip Report and Happy Holidays.
|
|
yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2014 - 05:48am PT
|
Good trip reporting. Even though I've never been there, before we met, my wife was introduced to climbing at Pinnacles, so I feel a connection to the place.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2014 - 06:15am PT
|
Love the do, and your stupendous exploits.
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
|
Thanks Ed. Love seeing the pics. One question, it has some 25 years since I've done any climbing at the Pinnacles. Wondering if people still do "Feed the Beast". It was common end of the day burn for me bitd. I always found it pretty stiff for the grade.
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
|
Mellow. Gotta love low key.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
|
Feed the Beast is still done Marty. The bolts got a nice upgrade care of a certain Sonora attorney and ASCA efforts.
Thanks Ed. Good to see Pinnacles on the Taco.
I just went down today myself and ended up hanging with a couple of Turkeys.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 10:40am PT
|
ed i'm curious.
as you wind down a very respectable career,
adorned with extra-ordinary accomplishments,
and, i assume a financial and social stability,
do you feel content?
how are the comforts that you've earned
receiving you?
i mean, is warm, fuzzy satisfaction yours?
or do you yearn for more controlled struggle?
do the night voices tell you to
seek mild crisis,
or do you simply hear the soft
applause of entropy averted?
can those strung out on chaos
ever come to graceful terms with
stasis?
ed i only ask this of you
because i admire you and
the strides that you so
confidently paste on these pages.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 07:12am PT
|
I just went down today myself and ended up hanging with a couple of Turkeys.
For that we are going to make YOU carry the rope, rack, bolt kit, and beer of OUR choice on ice, all by yourself next trip.
|
|
SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 07:24am PT
|
Thank you Ed for a neat day out on the rock.
Susan
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
Author's Reply
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 10:25am PT
|
winding down a life is an interesting process
what is amazing is that after heading out from home at 18 with no visible means of support and the plan "it will workout somehow" is seems to have worked out. This has as much to do with many good people helping me as it does with any innate ability that I have.
Right now I'm tying down resources at work that would be better spent on younger workers, if I continue to interact with them and transfer what I know, and that isn't physics but how to navigate the administrative aspects of doing science, how to manage science, the value proposition is positive for the lab. Once that stops happening there is no reason for them to keep me, except for sentiment, which doesn't help anyone, really.
So I'm interested in doing something else, and the difference now is that somehow we've managed to save enough to retire on... and in the process created a sustainable life style which engages our interests and stays within our budget.
In effect, I can pay myself to do what I want. To some extent that was true when I could convince someone to pay me to do something that both I and they wanted to get done, but now I don't have to worry about the convincing part. True, the scale of the "doing" will be somewhat less, but I'm ready for that too, as the responsibilities are also reduced.
As my interests stray from those of my current workplace, I am more and more prepared to end my relationship there, and there are fewer financial reasons to remain. It's an interesting place to be in life, the social aspects of work are more important than the financial ones...
The only thing we truly own is our own time... we should use that time with intent.
|
|
wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 10:45am PT
|
Likewise and Agreed,Cheers wilbeer.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 10:51am PT
|
what is amazing is that after heading out from home at 18 with no visible means of support and the plan "it will workout somehow" is seems to have worked out. This has as much to do with many good people helping me as it does with any innate ability that I have.
So true, Ed. I'm glad you and Larry were able to make that trip, and greatly appreciate your posting about it. I was hoping to climb there last Saturday as well, but family obligations prevented it. Too bad. It would have been a special treat to run into you guys.
John
|
|
SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
|
The only thing we truly own is our own time... we should use that time with intent.
Very resonant.
Susan
|
|
Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
|
winding down a life is an interesting process
good story Ed, some real thoughts and feelings here.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 02:28pm PT
|
Isn't "winding down a life" at like age 62, a bit premature?
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 02:35pm PT
|
Isn't "winding down a life" at like age 62, a bit premature?
I mentioned the Ed the standard set by my own dad, who at age 89 still does science, and just finished a radical new paper.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
Author's Reply
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 03:18pm PT
|
I'll figure that out next year, I'm just about to turn 61...
but certainly I'm transitioning in terms of profession, and work...
|
|
SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 04:06pm PT
|
Isn't "winding down a life" at like age 62, a bit premature?
"A life". The nice thing is there are many lives to embrace. At least that is what I found after walking away from working for others.
Surving cancer did that, too. Not a path I'd wish on anyone.
We often equate change with being " hard". Not so. Transitions are where the challenge lies. Actually fun stuff to negotiate in a weird sort of way.
Good luck Ed!
Susan
|
|
Phil_B
Social climber
CHC, en zed
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2014 - 04:12pm PT
|
Nice!
I don't think I've ever been in the park when it was wet there. Love the TR. Thanks for posting up.
|
|
|
|
|
Recent Trip Reports
- The Kohala Ditch Trail: 36ish hrs on foot... to and from the headwaters. [5 of 5]
May 31, 2019; 11:57pm
- A Winter Traverse of the California section of the PCT Part 8
May 31, 2019; 11:18pm
- Supertopo,A trip report for posterity
May 31, 2019; 11:00pm
- Balch Fest 2013. Two Days in and Around and On The Flake. The Official Trip Report
May 31, 2019; 10:57pm
- TR: My visit to the Canoe
May 31, 2019; 10:24pm
- Death, Alpine Climbing, The Shield on El Cap
May 31, 2019; 4:07pm
- Andy Nisbet (1953-2019)
May 31, 2019; 2:11pm
- Drama on Baboquivari Peak
May 31, 2019; 1:19pm
- Joffre + The Aemmer Couloir: ski descents come unexpected catharsis [part 2]
May 31, 2019; 7:45am
- Lost To The Sea, by Disaster Master
May 30, 2019; 5:36am
- My Up And Down Life, Disaster Master
May 29, 2019; 11:44pm
- Halibut Hats and Climbers-What Gives?
May 29, 2019; 7:24pm
- G Rubberfat Overhang-First Ascent 1961
May 29, 2019; 12:28pm
- Coonyard Pinnacle 50 Years Later
May 29, 2019; 12:24pm
- Great Pumpkin with Mr Kamps and McClinsky- 1971
May 29, 2019; 12:02pm
- View more trip reports >
|