Trip Report
Tallulah Gorge, Laurel Knob, Looking Glass, Linville Gorge - a Southern High Country Sampler (Photo Intensive)
Wednesday October 13, 2010 5:28pm
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DISCLAIMER - THERE IS NO GOOD CLIMBING IN THE SOUTH
After two months living the dream in the Sierra this summer, returning to the grind of daily life was like clipping a peregrine's wings. A month in the humidity of Florida's Gulf beaches - beautiful, but surfless - was about 30 days too long. Time to hit the road.
First stop - Tallulah Gorge. DENIED. Got damnt bureaucrats. What the f*#k do you mean you don't issue permits after 4pm!? Its 4:15. And why do I need a f*#king permit to climb in a 200' gorge? Where's the damned guard that took my 5 bucks!? Welcome to the South.
Oh well - lets blast up to Laurel Knob - that place looks big and we've never climbed there.
{sleep}
Prime day for some slab:
Oooh, Fathom Direct looks cool. Check out that featured water runnel waaay up there.
WTF!? 20 ft above my last gear and 20 more to go to the anchor!? I hate runout slab climbing. Scares the shite outta me.
{insert bailure aka descending rhythm}
At least we found a good spot to contemplate the meaning of slab climbing.
Aight, we need some flow. Bust out the shredsleds.
The shred sesh was good. So good in fact we rode again the next day in the Dupont State Forest. That place has some awesome trails.
Visit on sirbikesalot.com
After riding 15ish miles in Dupont, we boogied on up to the north end of Looking Glass to get in our multi-sport day.
Now THIS is what I'm talkin' 'bout. Gimme the steep.
Thanks Looking Glass. You never disappoint.
Now, lets go get some more steep.
Hawksbill anyone?
This place is home to some of the smallest holds you'll EVER pull on. So crisp, so incut, so small, so good!
Its also home to some steep-ass granite(ish) climbing.
The Linville Salute?
OK, our time is running out. We've had this nagging feeling in our guts ever since we got hosed at Tallulah. Rematch on the way home? Definitely...
All signs pointed to yes as we headed towards northern Georgia wondering if we'd pull it off.
As I walk into the Tallulah Gorge visitor center - I had a good feeling. Until they started lecturing me...
"Ya'll experienced climbers?"
"Yep."
"Ya'll know its all lead climbin' down thar right?"
"Uhhh, ya."
"Aight, well here's how yi git down thar..."
"I can see the approach trail from here, thanks."
"Well, I got tuh giv youz the proper orientation."
Shoot me now.
Holy sh#t Jimmy! We pulled it off!
Yeeeeewwwwww!
FIN
Just because:
The Alpine
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About the Author The Alpine is a big wall climber from Florida. Check out his excuse of a website at www.highexposures.com |
Comments
Dalyte
Trad climber
Nevada
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Oct 13, 2010 - 05:32pm PT
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Damn, that is a nice place. Thank for awesome pics.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Oct 13, 2010 - 05:37pm PT
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Great TR!
Always fun climbing in NC. And, eatin' BBQ...
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Oct 13, 2010 - 05:57pm PT
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now show us some florida big walls.
:-)
seriously, didn't know it got this good out east. thanks for the post.
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The Alpine
climber
The Sea
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Author's Reply
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Oct 13, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
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Ha. This is about as "big" as the walls get in FL.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Oct 13, 2010 - 06:40pm PT
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Excellent TR!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Oct 13, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
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i started climbing in '78 in new mexico, then got dragged to florida by a soon-to-be ex-wife. got into high-rise form carpentry in the tampa bay area, and i taught fellow crew members the joys of a hip belay while dangling out over 5 stories to chop expansion bolts. before i came along, you had to do it free solo. i don't think osha had been invented yet.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Oct 13, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
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I think I've been gone from NC too long...I can't even hang onto anything that's not an under-vertical splitter anymore. Thanks!
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 13, 2010 - 08:07pm PT
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EYEBROWS! We want eyebrows! Those delectable maddening thousands of enticing but not very good Looking Glass features. Eyebrows!
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CubicleNation
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Oct 13, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
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As someone who cut my teeth learning to climb in NC in 1985-1987, this brings back lots of good memories.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 13, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
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Sweet, thanks for the TR!!!!!!
Good Stuff!!!!!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Oct 13, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
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great outta state TR! Funny too!
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Oct 13, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
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Stellar TR, but you missed Stone Mtn. & Whitesides! They were my haunts for 12 years and damn I miss'em (85'-97')... Stone Mtn Yankee Go Home, Father Knows Best, Captian Crunch, Closer to the Heart, Rainy Day Women, Grand Funk railroad, Strawberry Perserves, Indian Look out Dirtect,SS, Teardrop, Bowl Games, Whitesides, Gom Jabber to New Traditions, Blarney Stone, Volunteer Wall, Looking Glass, Tits & Beer, Peregrine, Bloody Crack, Rat's Ass, The Seal (we put the SS cable in.), Glass Menagerie, Invisible Airwaves, Rowins Route, Ah Hell you are right there is NO GOOD CLIMBING in the South!!!
Thor
P.P.S. Always fun climbing in the South and eatin' Pickled Pigs Feet
with a cold beer!
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The Alpine
climber
The Sea
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Author's Reply
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Oct 13, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
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Glad you guys are enjoying the TR.
Tony - small world. I live and work in the Tampa area. St Petersburg specifically.
Thor - don't even get me started on the rest of the routes at Looking Glass' north side. I'm friggin' obsessed. Its cool you put that ss cable in on the Seal - I know it well.
Takin the whip off the Menag:
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Oct 13, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
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I had to duct tape the end closed and worked on getting it through for about a half hour!!! Tope rope Killer Whale!!
Has anyone cleaned The 'Green Gully' on The Seal, should be fun once it is cleaned, I had quite the grass stains after trying to lead that thing on aid!!!
P.M. me with any stories of your adventures!
Thor
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Oct 13, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
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Alpine, thanks for the memories,
I've climbed at Looking glass and hawksbill many times. Next time hit Shortoff, fantastic climbing!
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Oct 14, 2010 - 01:51am PT
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Sweet TR thanks for posting.
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Oct 14, 2010 - 09:03am PT
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NIIIIIICE!!! Done a bit of that southern climbing myself - love that place. Alpinist #25 had a piece on Laurel Knob, with photos by my friend Scott Perkins, a local (Atlanta) guy.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Oct 14, 2010 - 11:52am PT
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bump for the Dukes of Hazard.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Oct 14, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
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Thanks for the memories man. I lived in the Derty Sizzouth for 12 years and am back out in California now. Man I miss Tallullah Gorge sometimes. Digital Delight is soooo nice, so is Mescaline Daydream.
Here's a couple shots from Whitesides OR back in 2000.
Way to git er dun!
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 14, 2010 - 01:12pm PT
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Why is this man holding onto the rope instead of the rock?
No wonder he fall ....
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 14, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
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Do they still have live timber rattlers in a glass case in the Tallulah visitors center?
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Crag Rat
Trad climber
SC
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Oct 14, 2010 - 02:07pm PT
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I thought you were going to do Reflections? Call me when you head back this way.
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The Alpine
climber
The Sea
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Author's Reply
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Oct 14, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
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Crag Rat - Reflections didn't pan out. I'll be back soon though.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Oct 14, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
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Nice climbing pics!
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Nov 15, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
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Thanks!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 15, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
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Cool pics! I think this TR would get more hits if you had titled it:
Tallulah's Gorge and Laurel's Knobs Through the Looking Glass. But it was still enjoyable!
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Bob Ordner
Trad climber
Spokane
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Nov 24, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
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Many thanks for the great TR,
Those photos bring back a flood of good memories,in particular Punk Wave my first lead in that grade...what a fantastic route put in by Shannon Stegg.
Thanks Again
Bob Ordner Spokane WA
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Nov 24, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
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Great photos of Talulla Gorge. Like Bob Ordner said, they bring back great memories. Punk Wave is the mega classic. Also remember climbs called Flying Frog, BT Express and Step Across. Had a lot of fun there with Jack Chislet, John Vermont and Rob Robinson.
Bob, great to read your note. Enjoyed climbing with you at Jamestown.
Gene Smith
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 17, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
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That looks like some great crack climbing. Went to looking glass when I was a noob 20+ years ago. Didn't get too far but would love to go back.
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