Now to the TR.
I hadn't planned on going to the fundraiser but had sent some materials down to sell. I would randomly read my girlfriend the list of attendees and then tell her about the exploits that I've read about. Often referencing terms such as Desert Rats, Stonemasters, and Yosemite. These terms mean very little to most of the people here that I know. Its not that climbing history is unimportant but were so removed from these places and times up here in Alaska that this history is all but lost. After talking about it for a few weeks I guess my girlfriend got tired of it and told me that I just couldn't miss it. Not only because I wanted to go down and help, and be a part of the community doing good for other climbers but also because it was an opportunity to meet so many people that I've talked about and basically idolized for years. Finally, I decided to go but what would I do when I got there? I needed a climbing partner. I put a relatively benign post on facebook asking if anyone would be in Red Rocks or Joshua Tree around the time of the party and before I could even realize what was happening we had a party of six!
The party consisted of Travis "New Man" McAlpine, Dan "DanStrong" Linnell, Karina "KarinaBold" Amortegui, Nick "The American" Weicht, Robert "Not A Gumby" Suenram aka "I Don't have Tits", and myself Kelsey "Gandolf" Gray.
I landed with Dan and Robert in Red Rocks and we ran, with about an hour of sleep each, to the base of Crimson Chrysalis and flew up the first three pitches in about the same speed a penguin would. We crawled and flapped our arms in silly motions as our bodies showed our lack of sleep. The minds followed and soon we bailed back to the safety of the ground. Apparently we would need more rest.
The next day brought some fun cragging and we climbed The Next Century with Nick and did a little climbing at the wall right of Birdland. Throughout these first few days I was having a had time controlling my mind enough to climb. A few days before I left for the trip my sisters fiance was in a motorcycle accident. He had survived but just barely, and had lost his arm at just below the shoulder. It was deeply effecting and I couldn't seem to keep my mind from it. At every step I would shake and my mind and body felt weak. The climbing wasn't coming natural. On the third day there were a few big climbs on the agenda. Dan and Karina were heading to climb Levitation 29 and Nick and Travis were going to Adventure Punks. I decided it was time to just get a bunch of ground under my feet and see if I could push away the thoughts to remember what I enjoyed in having the stone under my fingertips. I still hadn't taken any photo's but I brought out the camera that morning to get a photo of Dan and Karina, looking happy and ready to take on one of the classics of the park.
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Dan practicing his levitation.
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Red Rocks is an amazing place and one could take pictures there for a really long time. But I took a total of 3. I decided I'd have to do more justice to the other areas instead. I was finally feeling a bit better and was getting excited about the fundraiser. We drove all night from Red Rocks and arrived at Todd Gordon's house around 4am to crash in his back yard. We woke up around 6am and were ready for a long sleepless day. Right away we met with some great folks including Greg Epperson, Todd Gordon, Jim Bridwell, Tony Yeary, and Robs Muir. There were others who we met and I really apologize for not recognizing you here but I am terrible with names! We walked around like excited kids, helping setup in-between asking for autographs.
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Tony Yeary and Rob Stahl helping with the beer.
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This is somewhere around Roberts third month of climbing and his first climbing trip ever. He's pretty excited.
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We got some suggestions from Todd Gordon about climbing and he suggested we head over to Fried Monkey Butt and Boing Loin, areas I had seen pictures of recently. Sounded fun! Nick hopped on Boing Loin first.
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I had seen pictures of this area from Todd on Supertopo before the fundraiser and it was cool to see these new routes firsthand.
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Nick enjoying Joshua Tree slab.
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Then it was Dan’s turn on this enjoyable route.
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While Dan was climbing I ran over to Fried Monkey Butt where Karina was belaying….I’m sorry I can’t remember names so well! Please remind me!
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That is one slick slab!
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Both climbs in one photo.
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Dan doing a Jesus move..
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Travis and Robert had headed slightly up the hill to check out a short steep overhanging crack that we saw above. Travis made it up on TR with some falls and suffering. Karina and I both got spit out.
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Dan helping Karina get back onto the route. The rope sits perfectly on a sharp edge and saws back and forth while you hang.
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We saved the rest of our rope and ran back down to Boing Loin where Travis was giving it a solid run.
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Karina was next with Nick on Belay.
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Strenuous moves.
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Tired of all the pictures of the same route yet? Thats ok, heres that last ones! Robert gave it a whirl too!
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Still going on less than two hours of sleep we headed off to the party. A few folks had showed up and it was just starting to grow.
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We couldn't help ourselves and continued to buy everything in sight. Travis scored some pitons and salsa.
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The band kept the party lively.
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And it grew in size.
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That was about all the pictures I took of the party. There were a few photographers out there taking a bunch of great photos and I was on a bit of a different mission. We all introduced ourselves to Tom and to the many guests.
The parties host and all around nice guy Todd Gordon!
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My main prize from the party was a signed, numbered, box edition of The Stonemasters book. This amazing book came with a numbered photo of John Bachar and signatures from Dean Fidelman and John Long. But it was also the perfect book to carry around the party! By the end of the night I had added signatures to the classic rock climbing images from Randy Vogel, Rick Accomazzo, John Long, Dean Fidelman, Jim Bridwell, Mike Lechlinski, Russ Walling, Guy Keesee, Robs Muir and Kevin Powell. I may be missing a few names but I think thats the list. I didn't get to meet Mari Gingery, who I know was there, as were a bunch of other people I never got the pleasure of meeting! Still it was amazing to get to meet so many wonderful people who have given so much to the world of climbing.
The rest of the group spent all their money as well and I'm proud to say that our group of 6 Alaskan's contributed over $1200 to the fund for Tom!
We then spent the next day climbing in Jtree.
Karina and Nick.
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Nick climbing a 5.10c on a route that I believe is just next to one of Todd's. What's it called again, Sexy Grandma? Harrison Hood joined us for the day as well and we had a great day out.
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We'd been talking about heading off to Indian Creek since we only had two days left to climb and we wanted to go out with something big but the 12 hour drive wasn't sounding so pleasant. So in a last minute change of mind we found ourselves in Yosemite staring at the big Cap.
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Being a group.
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And poorly imitating classic photos.
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For our first day we decided to crag at the base of El Cap. I'd never actually climbed there on any of my last 6 trips to the valley so it was great to finally get on those routes. Karina ate it up like it was movie popcorn with a free refill.
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Robert was dizzy with excitement and with vertigo as El Cap loomed above.
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Partnering with Karina we raced from one climb to the next.
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Karina led Sacherer Cracker with way to little gear and made it look easy. Nick figured he better have a go.
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He did not seem to be enjoying it as much.
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He was a lot happier when it got to the hands section.
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But was stymied at the offwidth.
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Somehow a few photos of me were managed. Here they are...
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After the day of cragging we figured we'd better go big or go home...or since were already going home we'd better just go big. The parties were decided and Nick and Karina, Dan and I would head up Arches then finish on Crest Jewel. Robert and Travis headed over to the Central Pillar of Frenzy.
The next morning we woke up at 5pm and ran up Royal Arches, simulclimbing much of the route. There wasn't much time for photography but I managed a few.
Heres Karina just after the pendulum.
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And working across the somewhat scary final pitch of Arches.
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Dan following. Since we were going for speed the deal was that I would lead every pitch of Arches and he'd get to lead Crest Jewel.
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We got to the top of the route and raced up toward North Dome. Those who have been up there will probably wonder why we are going up this slab and know that we went the wrong way.
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I didn't take any pictures because it was the most heinous bushwhack i've ever done in the valley. Honestly, why are the descriptions of how to get on the route not more detailed when coming from Arches? This was a bit maddening.
Well we finally found the proper spot after 2 hours, a bushwhack, and a rappel, and we were back in business starting off on what has been described as the worlds best slab route.
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We were all feeling a bit bushed from the approach and the last week of full climbing.
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Karina heading up.
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Want a hand hold? To freaking bad, you wont get one for another thousand feet.
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We knew dark would be on its way since we took so long to get to the route and raced up. It was painful and to be honest I was plenty sick of slab by the end of it. What a route.
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The next morning was another early one. We hopped up around 5am and started packing. We had another 8 and a half hour drive in front of us to get back to Las Vegas, clean out the car, and get on the plane. But we knew the trip wouldn't end right if we didn't make a stop at Tunnel View for one last group photo. Best weeklong road trip ever.
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a photo for the thumbnail:
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 Karina Amortegui, Daniel Linnell, Travis McAlpine, Nick Weicht, Robert Suenram, and Kelsey Gray Credit: Prezwoodz |
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