Muir Wall A2 5.9

No writing, just pictures

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC

Nov 9, 2012 - 10:38am PT
The kid says he will tell the epic tale when he gets 100 comments.. This thing has 1200 views so that shouldn't be too hard! Post up for an epic people!!

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Date: October 23, 2012
High Angle Rescue of Stranded Climber in Snow Storm Successful

Yosemite National Park Rangers and Search and Rescue Personnel completed a high angle, high risk rescue on El Capitan, in Yosemite Valley, on Monday, October 22, 2012, in which a stranded Canadian climber was at risk for hypothermia. The summit of El Capitan, 7,569 feet above sea level, is the largest granite monolith in the world. This Yosemite icon attracts rock climbers from across the globe.

Two rock climbers began ascending a climbing route, known as the Muir Wall, on El Capitan on Monday, October 14, 2012. The party was due to reach the top of the climb on Sunday night, October 21, just before a large storm, with several inches of snow, was predicted. The lead climber, a 24-year old male from Ontario, Canada, reached the summit just before midnight on Sunday night. The second climber, a 40-year old male from British Columbia, Canada, was forced to spend the night approximately 230 feet below the summit due to impending bad weather and a stuck climbing rope.

At approximately 2:00 a.m. on Monday, October 22, the 40-year old climber attempted to deploy a rainfly over his portaledge (a hanging tent system designed for rock climbers to spend the night on a rock wall) to provide shelter from the rain/snow. However, during his attempt he slipped out of his portaledge and fell approximately 15 feet down the face of the rock. He was able to ascend his rope and secure himself back to the portaledge, but was unable to properly erect the rainfly. During the night, the area received approximately four to six inches of snow with nighttime temperatures in the mid-twenties.

Yosemite Park Rangers were notified of the possible hypothermic climber midday on Monday, October 22. Due to unfavorable weather, the park could not secure a helicopter to assist in the rescue and instead deployed ground teams to respond. Park Rangers Aaron Smith and Ben Doyle, and Search and Rescue Crew Member Matt Othmer immediately hiked to the summit of El Capitan to rescue the climber. Snow, wind, and ice slowed rescue attempts and personnel reached the summit at approximately 4:00 p.m. The team rigged anchors and immediately began lowering Park Ranger Smith approximately 230 feet to the climber. Upon arrival, Smith found the climber to be suffering from exhaustion and mild hypothermia. Smith attached ropes to the climber, and then ascended the ropes back to the summit. Using a mechanical advantage system of pulleys, the team was then able to hoist the climber to the summit.

After warming the climber, the team descended back to Yosemite Valley via hiking and rappelling, and reached the Valley floor at approximately 10:00 p.m.

The climber was transported to a local hospital and is in good condition.

Seems like some of the people here are taking it like it's no big deal .....

First of all this Trip Report, although mainly a photo essay, is about a MY experience on the wall, MY decisions, and MY report card. So inevitable criticism should be directed towards ME and MY mistakes...

Upon reaching the top of the climb I was extremely scared, impatient and frustrated. I ran into some technical difficulties, the kind of technical difficulties that real climbers find solutions to and overcome.

Instead of figuring out a way to solve said problems, I took the cowardly way out and fled the scene. Abandoning my partner and our kit. Invalidating the Ascent completely.

Werner in his own way is helping to encourage "truth and
reconciliation"

"why didn't the partner just jug out?"

Luke certainly hasn't hidden anything and if he's inclined to leave it like that for now whats it to ya?

when many would have taken this whole story, buried it somewhere real deep & never spoke of it again.

far as accusing me of risking SAR members lives by having them preform the rescue, as far as I see it they we're just going to work.

However, as far as accusing me of risking SAR members lives by having them preform the rescue, as far as I see it they we're just going to work. With no intended disrespect

Own it Luke and when you own your sh#t both good and bad you get respect.

I would hope guys like Hudon And you no pants Ben give back some positive advice as it seems to me it is more rewarding than pointing fingers and pointing out ones mistakes. Perhaps Luke had no idea and I means NO idea how dangerous his actions were at the time he made that choice to leave Doug.

but we all made mistakes

Thanks for an honest opinion Vitality. If not including every detail is dishonest, then so be it.

However, as far as accusing me of risking SAR members lives by having them preform the rescue, as far as I see it they we're just going to work.

"I did fuk up and obviously want to hear people's opinion, hence why I posted up."

"Had I been more patient finding a partner with the same rhythm as me, rather than going with the first person who agreed to go with me."

Interesting Jeremy, how do you think I tried to cover up my f*#k ups. Pretty sure I've been up front from the get go.

LAME THREAD

the needless character assassination that buts to the front of the line...

"...the needless character assassination."

I also don't understand what Luke means by "rhythm". I believe they were only on the wall for a total of six nights, which is pretty darn fast for such a long route. Many competent and more experienced teams take longer than that. Considering that it was Doug's first El Cap route [not sure re. Luke] and that they didn't fix any pitches, just blasted, it seems pretty damn fast to me. I'd love to have a partner who could match that "rhythm".

Muir: The crawling Canadians made it to the start of the upper section and camped out all day. Seems to be a trend these days! They have worked hard getting their kit up the low angle rock to this point and I suppose have earned a day off! Enjoy it men, you probably won’t get another one.

"Doug doesn't want to talk about details because he doesn't want to be embarrassed. Luke doesn't want to embarrass him so he's not talking."

Uh, dude ... has it ever occured to you that you have the above completely ass-backwards?

I'm amazed at how many of you give him a pass for abandoning his partner. That's not a matter of experience. That's a matter of who you are inside. Russ is right -- no way you ever abandon a partner in a situation that could become dangerous, even if you're not getting along or disagree on strategy. Shameful.

Luke-i was going as fast as i could up there,to make it sound like i was making no effort to keep up is just not true.i dont want what happened to ruin an otherwise great climb.i was still haulling the previous linked pitchs when you announced you were leaving in ten minutes from 2 pitchs above-after asking me to tag you the lead line witch was my anchor.

had you have waited at p 30 rather than racing off we would have finished together with the gear before the storm hit.as it was-with 2 traversing pitchs to clean-a haul to finish and a stuck tag line-i felt it better[safer]to wait for light-and you agreed to meet me in the morning.

i got hit hard that night and in retrospect i should have done whatever i could to get off that night even if you were already gone.

This being said-i have no hard feelings-mistakes were made.I made mistakes-i wish you and Aislin all the best-when you write your tr,let it reflect on the good things about our experience-again-I wish you well Doug