It's been about a 2 1/2 year jaunt down 'the road to the nose'. Pretty much as per the McNamara plan- laps up the tree, laps in the gym, practice aid pitches, long free routes, gear assembly, shorter walls, partner searches, etc. etc.

The stars aligned when, on Friday evening, we chose to wade into the throng of parties on the route.

Starting up the first pitches

The weather was fine as we climbed through the night, disturbing the slumber of a party on sickle, getting rope stuck between Dolt hole and stovelegs, and at sunrise waiting for ledge sleepers to motivate in upper stovelegs.

My partner Ted is a strong climber- particularly freeing pitch 10, upper stovelegs- burly and wide.

We napped for an hour on Dolt tower, and continued on-pitch 12

We arrived at El Cap tower at the end of the day, and fixed the two pitches to the top of Boot flake. I huffed up Texas flake and didn't soil myself because I was on toprope.

Boot flake at dusk

There were six of us on El cap tower, here eating canned fruit at 10:10 10/10/10

Sticking the King Swing

Looking down from Boot Flake- morning.

We hit the nasal congestion in the grey bands- here an Aussie NIAD party climbing through.

The great roof pitch is pretty awesome.

Pancake flake at sunset

We got to camp five at 10:00, and continued the slow train in the morning. Here with one of the Norwegian team.

The train gradually got moving as we worked into the stunningly monolithic upper wall.

Gettin' exposed up there.

The final pitches at sunset Monday.

The bridge

wOOt!

We walked down with the Norwegians, returning to the valley floor at 1:00AM

Pretty great climb. Thanks to all the partners, mentors, authors, bolters, and cam makers who make it doable.

Jay