Trip Report
The Qionglai Mountains, Sichuan, China...a visit.
Wednesday October 16, 2013 1:19am
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Angela and i got an e-mail from Phil Kirchilsky, a West Point buddy of Greg Crouch, proposing a trip to the beautiful peaks above Chengdu in the Sichuan Province of China. I had been there in 1981 but Angela had never been to China and Phil was running a business out of Beijing/Shanghai and would be the perfect host. The first two days were sight seeing in Beijing.
And then on to Chengdu which has perpetual overcast.
And up into the mountains just west of the city.
Rilong is a Tibetan majority town at 10,500 feet a couple of miles from the trailhead
Ten miles to basecamp at 12,300ft. but horses did the work.
First four miles is on a two meter wide boardwalk, wasn't there in 81.
Too jetlagged for organization what follows are some pics in no special order
We had some bad weather and Phil's short window had passed. We had put in a tent at 14,500 below an unclimbed 17,000 ft. peak that I hoped wouldn't go unused. Fortunately I was able to recruit Cameron Kern from the newly arrived Becky Expedition and off we went in perfect weather.
Missing photo ID#325657 The face above looked like too much with the time we had, so we headed up and left on snow.
Some route finding and a little spicy hard snow (in approach shoes) led us to the final four pitch headwall. At this point my camera ceased to function and Cameron is still in China. I'll post his pictures of the last section when he returns. It wasn't hard except for an in you face ten feet of gently overhanging rock on the penultimate pitch.
Ciao!
donini
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About the Author donini is a trad climber from Ouray, Colorado. |
Comments
RyanD
climber
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Oct 16, 2013 - 02:12am PT
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Nice! What a wild looking place.
How's the stone quality??
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Oct 16, 2013 - 01:27am PT
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Very nice looking area. I want to visit. Thanks Jim.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 16, 2013 - 01:33am PT
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Damn, Beckey's gonna be pissed you beat him there!
Looks like a climber's paradise.
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John M
climber
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Oct 16, 2013 - 01:46am PT
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Nice !!! Thanks for sharing this Jim. Reports like this always stoke the fire.
Edit. what Tami said below. I like the flowers too.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 16, 2013 - 01:48am PT
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Congratulations!
Fun, beauty, hiking, climbing and photography.
A nice wide range of photos too.
Awesomeness is upon you once again!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Oct 16, 2013 - 09:46am PT
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Yes RyanD the rock is good.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Oct 16, 2013 - 10:36am PT
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Looks like you both had a great time!!
Quite a place!
Best, Steve and Joan
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Oct 16, 2013 - 10:50am PT
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Nice photos, Jim.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 16, 2013 - 11:00am PT
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This is why it pays to be Donini.
He's got the horses!
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L
climber
Just livin' the dream
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Oct 16, 2013 - 11:01am PT
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Incredible photos, Jim. The mountain shots were spectacular, but so were the macro (flowers and foliage) photos.
"Is that your foot Phil?" Very funny.
Thanks for a lovely TR.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 16, 2013 - 11:21am PT
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I guess your turn to make me jealous! Awesome looking place and photos. Seems like quite an adventure. Thank you for posting!!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 16, 2013 - 11:22am PT
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Nice .....
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Oct 16, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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Amazing looking place. Were there many other climbers?
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Oct 16, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Cool! Looks like a great destination.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Oct 16, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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A Great look at it all,TFPU.Hope to get there someday.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Oct 16, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
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Awesome! TFPU!
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BFK
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 16, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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Looks rad! TFPU
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 16, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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Awesome photography and TR...
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Oct 16, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
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Yaks, horses or llamas.
Which makes the "best" pack stock?
What great peaks! So big!
Welcome home!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 16, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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Okay, Jim, is Chengdu overcast or is it just smog?
Celestial peak, OMG! An almost perfect mountain.
What photos--thanks for sharing!!!!
ps. Did you get to see the street where the guy stared down the tank?
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Oct 16, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
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Beautiful!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 16, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
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Beautiful
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Oct 16, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
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Thank you Jim.
Aside from your insuperable historical contributions, you have become one of the leading current contributors. Armchair enthusiasts everywhere are grinning :D
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 16, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
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Jim, that looks great. The school I work with was parterning with a school in Chengdu to send students to the Black Hills. I bet it is a little culture shock the first time they go to deadwood. Getting a work sponsored trip over there looks like it would be the bomb. Now if I can only round up some Llamas.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Oct 16, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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Awesome Jim, love the mountain pics, I hope to get to that region someday !!!!
Thank you!!!!!
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Oct 16, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
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Wow......Thanx for sharing Jim.....
Stevo
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 16, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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good stuff
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Oct 16, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
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Thanks Jim, wish I'd been there.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Oct 16, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
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gf, it ia about six hours by car from Chengdu to Rilong. When in Rilong go to the Ice Rock bar, it's a trip. The hike in from Rilong, after a ten minute bus ride, is only 2/3 hours to the base of Siguniang and another hour to where we base camped. Truly beautiful especially with the Larch trees turning color. If you go up one of the side valleys for an hour or so you will likely see Himalayan Blue Sheep.....enjoy!
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The Larry
climber
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Oct 17, 2013 - 12:23am PT
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Good stuff!!!
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Oct 17, 2013 - 12:38am PT
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Thanks for sharing your experience Jim, excellent photos.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Republic, WA
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Oct 17, 2013 - 01:34am PT
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Thanks for taking the effort to post all those cool pics, you old rodent-eating wonder.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 17, 2013 - 01:39am PT
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wow - this is incredible
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Oct 17, 2013 - 01:46am PT
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Great report Jim - the pictures are stunning.
The texting one finally snapped me back to...the other place.
Thanks for the share, my friend.
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Oct 17, 2013 - 09:35am PT
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looks great! funny, i thought i would be there in september this year but the trip fell through. we would've had a blast!
what's the plan for winter? patagonia?
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
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Oct 17, 2013 - 09:52am PT
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Wow.
Incredible.
A great way to start the morning.
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pc
climber
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Oct 17, 2013 - 10:35am PT
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Awesome! Thanks for sharing with us.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Oct 17, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
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Ben....Angela and I are going to Patagonia in January, what are your plans?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 17, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
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Wow
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Oct 18, 2013 - 05:05am PT
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cool, maybe i do the same! hopefully! depends on partners and summer plans and money ..
i'll let you know! cheers
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Oct 18, 2013 - 09:57am PT
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Another Gneissly Granetic Donini report. Thanks for taking the time to post up those photos! Beautiful place!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Oct 18, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
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TFPU! Especially for sharing some gorgeous shots of some less familiar mountain scenery :-)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Oct 21, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
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Some more China photos....the urban side....Shanghai
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Oct 21, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
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Nice!! Thanks for posting up Jim... I will never go there so this is the next best thing!
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mstearns
climber
UT
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Oct 21, 2013 - 04:50pm PT
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How are the rest of Beckey et al. holding up? I have received some texts requesting weather forecasts, but no other info.
Any successes for those guys?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Oct 21, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
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I climbed with Cameron Kern, one of their group. The day we climbed Eric, Neal and Felix were off trying a new route on Daogou. Eric's dad, Bill, hike up to a high pass with my wife Angela. Fred still hadn't made it to basecamp but was due shortly.
That's all the info I have.
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mstearns
climber
UT
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Oct 21, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
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Thanks Jim! Glad to hear anything.
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John_Box
climber
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Oct 21, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
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Haven't even read this yet, but I just wanted to post on a cool climbing related topic rather than some of the other stuff floating around. Thanks for some evening entertainment Jim!!
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jun 16, 2016 - 08:45pm PT
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Ha, thanks for the bump....missed it, beautiful thanks Jim.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Feb 20, 2017 - 03:00pm PT
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Bump!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Feb 20, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
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Man, you are the guy I need to hit up for a loan....
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