Last year his first ice festival brought in around 30 climbers. This year we got a few more people involved and ended up having over 167 people! An amazing size for this event and Brian Teale, a previous director of the festival, said it was probably the largest he had seen. We're already planning for next year so here's some candy to tempt all you folks wanting some good ice to pack your bags and head on up!
The meet and greet at Fat Mermaid in Valdez was already showing the promise for the next days festivities. Quite a few people showed up.
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The next day we headed out and put ropes up on the base of a few of the classic climbs in the area. Here is Bridalveil.
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Pitch one of it at least!
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We also had climbers on Greensteps.
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A happy crowd. There were 3 other areas all set up with ropes and each area had as many people or more as this one.
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Want to make it a bit more interesting? We had some mixed routes setup as well.
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And whats a festival without hot chocolate?
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The first morning of the festival there was a womans climbing clinic that managed to attract almost 30 female climbers! An excellent turnout. The clinic was held at POS.
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Ladies getting after it.
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Oh and if you think it looks easy, both Bridalveil and Greensteps are WI5.
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Don't like the crowds? We can understand that. Thankfully Keystone Canyon is filled with gems. Here's a picture of the ever intimidating Glass Onion and a few climbers getting after it.
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Travis McAlpine enjoying a run up the first ice section.
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Perhaps it was fate that people could be found on a Simple Twist of Fate.
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Chris Williams avoided the crowds at Hanging Tree.
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Many people heard about the avalanche that come down in Keystone Canyon and blocked the entire canyon, filling it with water. What many don't know is that a lot of the snow is still there in a feature called the Damalanche. This hard packed snow felt glacerious and made for some great climbing.
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Even crack systems!
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Robert Suenram making holds.
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The hole that is above in this photo is actually from another avalanche that came down later and collapsed through. Behind it was another hundred yards of massive tunnel.
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The snow below was somewhat soft and made for a decent landing.
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When we left the Damalance we saw Dane Ketner giving some mixed craziness a go. Early guesses put it at M6 or M7. I call it craziness because I'm not much into mixed climbing.
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But we figured since we were there we might as well give it a go! (even though we left and came back later)
Pat trying it first. Where's all the ice?
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Pat had some spectacular toprope falls! Here's a few of my favorites.
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And my favorite.
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Shasta gave it a go as her first mixed climb and did great.
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Heres me moving through the crux. Made it to the top of the climb with one fall.
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Of course sometimes getting to the climb is the crux.
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We wrapped up our time on the ice and rock and headed into town for one of Nicks famous bonfires. Stories are told about his high school graduation bonfire where he lit 700 pallets up at once.
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We did a mere 31 or so.
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Then helped it along...
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And kept it up.
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Until a firebird and smoke wolf flew from the top. Seriously...you see them? Crazy photo.
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Anyone else wonder how a lemur got in there?
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Some daring souls went in for a photo.
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We tried our hands at twirling fire.
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And at funny poses.
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The next day was devoted to mixed climbing and I have to admit that I took off running. It was raining and the 5 hour drive back to Anchorage was calling. So if your wondering what to do next year, pack your bags and head to to Alaska. The ice is calling.
Photo below is for the TR link.
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 Robert Suenram in the Damalanche. Valdez, Alaska Credit: Prezwoodz |
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