The Vision 5.10a Tom Higgins and Tom Gerughty, 8/1970

Here is an old thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=99894&msg=1242737#msg1242737

Looking at the route from the road:

I needed a couple days off from my stress filled life. I got in touch with Linda and she could climb Monday and Tuesday.

Linda suggested The Vision, on Pennyroyal Arches. I awoke to a cloudy Labor Day morning. The sky wasn't clearing up as I had hoped. We hiked into Pennyroyal Arches, but cumulus clouds were forming already. I flaked the ropes and racked up, but we both got nervous watching the sky, and eventually bailed back to the car. We salvaged the day by doing a TR on Footnote. Then we went over to Low Profile Dome, which I had never visited and climbed a few routes.

I woke to clear but cold skies on Tuesday. Things were definitely looking up! We waited a bit for the north facing cliff to get a bit of warmth.

Here is the view looking back over Pywiack:

I got the first pitch. Looking up:

The top of the 1st pitch has run-out 5.8 knobs after not great gear placements, it was a good wake-up for me.

My partner in crime:

Such great views from the wall:
Linda got the second pitch. 3 bolts spaced out pretty far, then you get to a crack. I was glad I wasn't leading it, but the real stuff was waiting up ahead for me.

Because of the angle of the Sun (backlit from top of cliff), I had a really hard time finding the first two bolts. A good clue from Linda was to look for stances, since it was drilled on lead.

Edging up the gold polish looked improbable, but the path opened up as I worked
my way up. Getting the third bolt was pretty tricky. I tried to go straight up, but backed off. Then I went left and up, and then traversed right above the bolt to get back on the path. The section from the third bolt to the crack was pretty hard, about the same as the previous one.

Getting the 5.8 crack was a great relief. Really nice fingerlocks and hands in an undulating crack. Here's a shot from the third belay. I moved it up so that we could finish in 4 pitches.


Looking up, sweet double crack:

Looking back at Tenaya Lake again. The gold polish on the wall here is very intact, leaving not much to climb on! Good thing there is a crack here.

The requisite summit shots!

All in all, I thought it was a wonderful climb. It was out on the edge of my leading ability, but it made for a great adventure. Kudos to Tom Higgins and Tom Gerughty.

Sorry, no pictures of Pennyroyals!

Edit:

Follow the Monkey Heads!
Steve