Trip Report
Trout fishing in America, a TR
Sunday August 9, 2015 11:46pm
Trout Fishing in America...
August 8, 2015
Ed Hartouni, Linda Jarit, Bela Logan


Everybody says that there is a huge potential for new routes in Tuolumne Meadows if you are willing to walk just a bit off the road. We did last Saturday and were rewarded with a wonderful area, Trout Wall, developed by the Gerberdings... our total beta on this was a general location, a note that said a 70m rope was fine, and a listing of routes (with some hints of gear)... the list started with a 5.11a, then 5.10c, and ended with a 5.9... Linda's memory (it was Linda's beta) was that the routes were listed right-to-left, but you never know...

We did find the place after a bit of wandering around, I launched up on the "5.9" only to find it a touch more difficult than 5.9... Bela kept saying, "that doesn't look like 5.9..." I got the first two bolts clipped and decided that the moves to the third bolt were definitely more like 5.11a than 5.9. I retreated to the ground and Linda took over...

Linda working above the third bolt...
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Credit: Ed Hartouni
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...and nearing the top of the route. The bolts are mind easingly close, and the knobs thickly dot the steep wall. The route took a small cam.
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Credit: Ed Hartouni
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Here's Bela getting ready to run a top-rope lap...
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Credit: Ed Hartouni
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... and some old guy working past his previous high point.
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Credit: Ed Hartouni
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We pulled the rope and Linda was next in the rotation, so she did the next route over, the 5.10c...
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Credit: Ed Hartouni
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...and high up it ends at the same anchors, which are painted to match the rock color.
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Credit: Ed Hartouni
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The bolts are not easy to spot but it turns out that climber FA instinct is a good guide to getting you to the right part of the cliff.

Great day, no one else out there (of course), absolutely silent except for the wind in the trees, far from any roads... just a great place to pull on crystals, route after route...

really wonderful routes too, thanks to the Gerberdings!

Bela captures our feelings before we packed up and did the very pleasant hike out.
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Credit: Ed Hartouni
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  Trip Report Views: 2,057
Ed Hartouni
About the Author
Ed Hartouni is a trad climber from Livermore, CA.

Comments
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Aug 9, 2015 - 11:56pm PT
super-cool, ed! sounds like a perfect day!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Aug 10, 2015 - 06:40am PT

our total beta on this was . . . . .
.
Trout Wall, developed by the Gerberdings... . . . .

a general location,
a note that said a 70m rope was fine, and
a listing of routes (with some hints of gear)...
the list started with a 5.11a, then 5.10c, and ended with a 5.9...
Linda's memory . . . .
. . . . . . the routes were listed right-to-left,?
but you never know...

We did find the place after a bit of wandering around, I launched up on the "5.9" only to find it a touch more difficult than 5.9... Bela kept saying, "that doesn't look like 5.9..."
Take that and go ! Great ! just enough to keep the hart rate low for the approach.
With full apprehensive eager awareness.
The stoke of positive attitude -we can do this-
The essence of adventure keeping some things to be discovered along the way.
Not a step by step visually slashed to enth degree, carry along . . . .thingy?
So that accomplishment is more the mix of the skill, determination and luck of the participants. Actively partaking in the moment.

Thanks Ed

how can we entreat you to return to full attention to our mass edifacation?
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Aug 10, 2015 - 06:28am PT
Brautigan would be proud.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Aug 10, 2015 - 06:36am PT
Nice......a little searching can yield private little nuggets even in a place as popular as the Meadows!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Aug 10, 2015 - 06:49am PT
Sweet. Thanks!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Aug 10, 2015 - 11:29am PT
Nice, Ed! Thanks for posting.

Great book to name a route after. I still think of those underwater trout lanterns when walking near rivers at night.

In Watermelon Sugar another wonderful read.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 10, 2015 - 11:36am PT
BELA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


LINDA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


ED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



:)

TFPU
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 10, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
Nice!

John
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Aug 10, 2015 - 05:50pm PT
actually I (we) don't know what the route names are... the list was grades and protection beta only...

I thought the setting was evocative of a 1960s-1970s fantasia...
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 10, 2015 - 06:03pm PT
Thanks Ed, and here I thought it was gonna be off topic ,
Not that I'd mind if it was comming from you!
I miss your science threads Ed!
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Aug 11, 2015 - 08:59am PT
BBST
Linda Jarit

climber
ca
  Aug 11, 2015 - 10:09am PT
right to left? left to right? ....Hey, I'm blonde, what can I say?

As an old friend of mine once told me, "they are all 5.9, some harder than others"
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Aug 11, 2015 - 08:34pm PT
Ed and Linda- Thanks for sharing your trophy-sized fun with us.

Next stop Brautigan Dome?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/638639/Bircheff-Bardini-Brautigan-Dome-Climbing-76
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Aug 11, 2015 - 10:05pm PT
Thanks Ed - I love exploring new areas in TM. We hit River Wall and Dark Side Dome last trip. I've got Lost Wall and Hammer Dome on the visit list. Can you give us a hint where Trout Wall is?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Aug 11, 2015 - 10:06pm PT
across from Geo Dome
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
  Aug 12, 2015 - 11:34am PT
Bump for climbing content
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  Aug 12, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
Looks like some bold work. Nice!

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Aug 12, 2015 - 05:22pm PT
No limits! Every man his own game's warden! Sweet, Ed (& company).
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Aug 12, 2015 - 07:33pm PT
Thanks again, Ed.
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