Trip Report
Tuolumne season opener obscurities
Thursday May 29, 2014 2:49am
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OK, this is in the valley- 'Looking for Lichen' Gardened out the thin crack. Last climbed in ??
Looking up at the face crux- guarded by a coating of green slime and loose flakes. Look for my bail biner on an old but decent bolt.
This is random, but I liked the idea.
Anyway, on to Tuolumne. After the traditional romp around Stately Pleasure, we located 'Sunny Delight'. This shows the start of this "5.8" climb. Tony took over my attempt, & I eventually followed, relocating many portable holds. I'd say 5.10c 2 bolts.
Then the search for 'Gold Standard' 'Pepe Le Peu' '& 'Tom Tom'. Supposedly left and up from Low Profile Dome, we scoured the area almost to Deimos area and were shut down- except for great views, a good work out, and scouting a crack that I had long wondered about high on the slope. It turned out to be poor rock and bottoming no pro for the first 25'.
See any routes there?
Not leave empty handed, we made a fine ascent of 'Don't exchange Bodily Fluids' (short and civilized).
And grooved on the scene.
Still later, I saw a stick
And we climbed 'T H Sea' on DAFF
This is old school- not technically hard, but a mental workout for sure.
Don't wait too long, as it's getting harder to find the opportunity to risk sliding 50 footers onto old 1/4" bolts. It traverses too, so the second is not short changed.
The upper section features knobs disappearing into potato chips above a ledge, a slung knob for a top anchor, and the thought-provoking walk off.
And finally, 'Borderline' just left of 14 Karat on DAFF. I used some of my extensive french technique on this "5.9" crack, and the upper face is the same or harder than 14 Karat- rated 10c.
So we got out and messed around. wOOt!
Jay Wood
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About the Author Jay Wood is a trad climber from Fairfax, CA. |
Comments
RyanD
climber
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May 29, 2014 - 04:12am PT
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excellent!! Tuolumne on ganda's is just the best time. Some great shots too, TFPU!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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May 29, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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Excellent is right. Way to get on it ASAP! I've got to wait till June..... :(
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Stewart Johnson
Gym climber
top lake
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May 29, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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Nice ! I saw you by the golfers
We played through as you were leaving!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 29, 2014 - 10:32am PT
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Great tr....obscurities are a way to beat the crowds.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 29, 2014 - 11:14am PT
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Heaps of respect. Sounds rowdy.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
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May 29, 2014 - 11:17am PT
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Love the TR , short and sweet , and let the pics do the talking .
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 29, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
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Awesome! I got out to toulumne 2-3 weeks ago but was chased off by the freezing wind and cold temps. Barely managed to climb the dike route :( Hope temps are better next time I can make it out there. Which were your favorite routes there so far?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 29, 2014 - 12:21pm PT
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STICK IT!!!!
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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May 29, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
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Nice work Jay and Tony! Only you guys want to slide 50 ft onto old 1/4 bolts! I'm in TM 2+ weeks this year - hope to see you up there.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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May 29, 2014 - 01:00pm PT
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I like it. Nice stick sighting, too.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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May 29, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
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Nice! I talked to Tony on his way back down from exploring above Low Profile and he said the views were great but was disappointed by the lack of climbs. Of course looking up from the road it is pretty obvious that there isn't anything worth hiking up there for.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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May 29, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
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Living the dream !!!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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May 29, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
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Rocking TR, mans. I dig it. TFPU!!!2!!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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May 29, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
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Nice to see you guys are still at it,
thanks for the stoke!!
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bob
climber
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May 29, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
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Pretty much ready to go. Thanks you guys!!!!!!! So much fun in the TR-ville these days. Love it.
Bob J.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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May 29, 2014 - 09:41pm PT
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Best climbing area ever, IMO. Top 3 anyway. Great stuff up there.
Nice job!!!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 29, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
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Thanks for the fix . . . TM is one of the finest places on the planet.
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Osprey
climber
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May 29, 2014 - 11:16pm PT
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I had a hard time finding this thread. But when I did, I liked it.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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May 30, 2014 - 12:32am PT
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The early bird gets the granite! Good TR.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nice, Jay, very nice. Never heard of that Looking for Lichen - is it over by the Arches apron? Or other?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Fun TR, Jay. Le bruce, Looking for Lichen is by Lichen Nightmare on Monday Morning Slab.
John
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Jay, you've certainly carved yourself a niche that will keep you in rare company. Or raw company after the sliders? You dig on the opposite of what I like in a climb. I want to be plugged in so deep my mommy can't hear me screaming.
Edit: Upon re-reading, that didn't come out the way I wanted. Uhh, best to stop typing now.
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Ken Zemach
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Jun 11, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
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One of my favorite obscurities a few years ago (is it still obscure now???) is Inverted Staircase on fairview. Needs gardening, but frankly a great route.
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pinner
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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Jun 13, 2014 - 02:29am PT
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"Still later, I saw a stick"
Ha! love it!
Also, I believe I've come across that same stick in various other locales... wonder who's carrying it around to all these fine places?
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wstmrnclmr
Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
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Jun 24, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
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The climb we thought was Sunny Delight is actually On Golden Blond..............
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Author's Reply
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Jun 25, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
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What makes you think so?
In researching this route name, it seems that in one scene, the female lead is wearing zipper pull earrings.
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wstmrnclmr
Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
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Jun 25, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
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The fourth edition has a topo of the climbs.......Guess I need to bring it along. The "on" part of the name does get one thinking.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Author's Reply
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Jun 26, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
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Fourth edition.....right,
a likely story.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jun 26, 2014 - 09:35pm PT
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Nice TR!
One of my favorite obscurities a few years ago (is it still obscure now???) is Inverted Staircase on fairview.
Tell us more . . . Fairview is the real deal.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Author's Reply
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Jul 10, 2014 - 09:23am PT
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Located and climbed the actual 'Sunny Delight'
-Fun short-ish route, old bolts easy approach & walk off. A few pieces for anchors.
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