Trip Report
Two Seniors And A Stalwart Youth, Slaying The Dragon
Thursday July 14, 2011 11:06am
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First things first. The mighty Lepton showed up for Fathers Day. (Yaaay me!)
He was helping out with a massive landscaping project, wherein I finally got a couple giant rocks I'd been jonesing for.
Careful placement is crucial, because once it's down, THAT'S WHERE IT LIVES!
Here's the other one.
The new puppy watches with a lack of enthusiasm.
Then we get the call of desperation from Jeremy. "If you want to climb something in the Sandias, you better get up there in the next couple days. They're closing everything because of FIRE DANGER!!"
Lepton had already expressed a great interest in the long NW ridge of The Thumb, so I asked Jeremy if he'd join us, guide us, thrash us, get us off route...you know, the standard stuff. First he was in, then he was out, then in, then out......finally we hooked him.
Here is the ridge from below. The route is on the left skyline.
Here's another from below. It is easy (5.6), but it's a thousand feet tall and very exposed on both sides in many places.
Here's Survival nearing the base.
Jeremy wanted to solo and run around up there, so we gave him the camera so he could get some killer pictures of us on the first couple pitches.......HA!
First pic of the seniors on the route.
Here's Jeremy, the Stalwart Youth, at the first ledge. We were waiting for the GLACIAL team that beat us to the route, to do the "crux".
Some of you know that Jeremy is one of my current heroes. He's filled with energy and tons of good vibes. I'd rather climb with guys like J than meet all the famous magazine sport gods in the world.
A little higher on the route. Like I said, easy, but Lepton and I stayed roped for the first 3-4 pitches.
Lepton coming up the last of the roped climbing we did. The GLACIER team stayed roped up the whole way I think. They were nice guys though and were polite about us passing safely. That's the La Luz trail below in the distance.
You know I'll be back with some more in a bit!!
survival
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About the Author survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme. |
Comments
NotIt
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 11:10am PT
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yeah! I want to hear more about climbing in NM, period...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 14, 2011 - 11:40am PT
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You KNOW I had me some Bonsai moments up there!!
This one's for you Guido:
Jeremy and Lepton Man discuss the way forward. Beautiful eh?
Lepton explains the intricacies of the female mind. Jeremy looks on with a deep understanding.....
Another bonsai appreciation attack.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 14, 2011 - 11:43am PT
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Very cool Rock!! Looks like you're about to take out that steeple.
Also cool to see pics of you folks, Survival, Jeremy.
Jeremy looks on with a deep understanding.....
And yeah, that's just how I look what I try to understand the workings of the female mind.
TFPU
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 14, 2011 - 11:50am PT
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After staring up there in appreciation, I've always been curious about the routes up there. How could I have guessed: all that and bansai love too.
Thanks!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 14, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
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Jeremy, still wondering WTF Lepton was talking about.
Lepton Freesoloing. Doing his best Peter Croft imitation.
Sir Edmund Jeremy. A watchfull eye on the weather as always.
J, knocking off the next crux.
Lepton Man, dancing with the razors edge!!
I AM bonsai man!!
Photo to the west that Lepton ordered me to take.
BACK SOON!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 14, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
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How could I have guessed: all that and bansai love too.
Uhhh, because you've climbed nearly everywhere?
Jeremy on the final obstacle.
Jeremy AND Lepton on the final step.
The view down into the canyon.
The boys on the summit. Big thumbs up!!
Summit blossoms ! !
Summit bonsai ! !
By now Jeremy was wagging his tongue about the next crag we are headed to. Someone needs to give that boy a lude.....
More on the next destination in a bit.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 14, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
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Good.
Love the look of that rock.
But it ain't bonsai if it ain't in a pot.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 14, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
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But it ain't bonsai if it ain't in a pot.
True, but the entire art form came from a deep love and respect for twisted mountain trees, so I can call it that if I want.....HA!!!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jul 14, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
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I call them bonsai too, even though I know I'm wrong.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 14, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
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I was buying it until you said this guy Lepton could explain the intracacies of the female mind.
That one set off the bullshlt detector big time.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jul 14, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
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Sheet Yeah! There's a lot of bonsia potential up there.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 14, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
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Nice! Good to see you "old folks" still getting out and even passing people!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Jul 14, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
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Thanks! I did that route a few years ago- it's a fun, long outing.
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BrianH
Trad climber
santa fe
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Jul 14, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
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For sentimental reasons, that is my favorite route in the Sandias. I've done it 3x, gotten pretty seriously off route twice. This was surprising to me, given that's it's a very well defined ridge. A good general rule of 'thumb' coff is if you notice a lot of lichen, you might want to back up a bit and re-assess.
In your photo of the formation, you show the route on the left hand side, but isn't it on the right hand side?
Another feature of the route is that for all the long climbing you get, the descent is pretty trivial. Two short raps and you're there.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
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WhooHoo Bruce! My favorite Sandia climb. The only bad memories I have
of it are of those darn Kenyans passing me as I was 'running' up to it.
"So if I am running what are they doing?" The only conclusion I could
honestly come to was: white boyz can't run either.
BONSAI!!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 14, 2011 - 02:22pm PT
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In your photo of the formation, you show the route on the left hand side, but isn't it on the right hand side?
It's the one on the left. The photo is taken from a ways down on La Luz, taken on a different hike. Man, you WERE off route! HA! Just kidding.
Part of the descent.
Some of the plants up there are friendlier than ohers.
After we got down to the next crag. What the hell was the name of it Jeremy?
Check this out. Not a great pic because it's zoomed waaaay in, but this is one of the glacier boys nearing the top.
Nice! Good to see you "old folks" still getting out and even passing people!
Jim, we're just glad you didn't show up and pass us!!
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jul 14, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
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Awesome stuff as usual. I love that New Mexico rock!
+1 for geezer patrol taking charge in fine style. Even though you can probably kill me with your left thumb, I can call you a geezer because you don't know where I live.
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Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
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Jul 14, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
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That looks like a great day. I have wanted to climb in the Sandia's for a while now, so I feel inspired to give it a go sometime in the future... I bought a guidebook a year ago.
Nice TR, thanks!
BONSSSSSAAAAAIIIIIII!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 14, 2011 - 02:57pm PT
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Now that is some funny shitz nutjob!
WARNING ! ! !
Just in case anyone goes up there anytime soon. There are many many loose things on that route, but one in particular:
At the end of the second pitch there is a small overhang. Under the left side of this roof is a refridgerator sized block that moves with the touch of a hand.
I swear to you, in 36 years of climbing, I have never moved anything so large with so light a touch. It is a death chopper block! The trundler in me wanted to cut it loose, but it was a weekend and I couldn't be sure no one was below.
If you are on this route, be super aware.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 14, 2011 - 03:02pm PT
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When's the climbing season in the Sandias? Does it get too hot in summer? Too cold or snowbound in winter? Any interesting winter routes? Is there a good guide book?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
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Good stuff, as usual, boyz!!!
Survival, and pics of the big rocks you dropped in yer yard? After they were placed?
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
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:)
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 14, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
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Great adventure! Thanks for sharing! I love your trip reports!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 14, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
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When's the climbing season in the Sandias? Does it get too hot in summer? Too cold or snowbound in winter? Any interesting winter routes? Is there a good guide book?
It's actually good in summer because some of that stuff is around 9,000-10,000 ft. It does get hot, but there are things that face every-whichaway so you can chase the shade. Yes, it gets quite cold in winter. I don't know what to tell you about winter climbing up there since I have stayed lower so far. I don't know which guide book is best either. One of these other guys could tell you better.
Here's the other part of our day. Survival on a 5.8 pitch.
Jeremy on a tricky 5.7
Blue, here you go.
Much more work has gone into the surroundings.
Here's the other, before the WALL went up!
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Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Jul 14, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
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Nice report, nice pictures. Brings back some memories of looking over at The Thumb from climbs on either the Muralla Grande or the Torreon. I can't remember which.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 14, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
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Haha, Lepton! There can't be two noses like that! Good on you guys!
I'm into that Bonsai in nature thing. I tried to capture the essence of a krumholtz pine that gave off that vibe just the other day in the blackhills.
I've always thought that vedauwoo was a human scale Bonsai garden. You guys should make it there this summer, there is an event there around the 5th of August, but any other time works, too. We could go up to the Colonel's @ Deto, as well. Frank has a baby Grand just waiting for Lepton's Julliard schooled fingers....
Thanks for sharing your adventure!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jul 14, 2011 - 06:13pm PT
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Thanks survival, I love the sandias, only hiked and trail run there though!
-Ezra
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 14, 2011 - 06:18pm PT
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No more pics?
WTF FARMER BRUCE?!!!
I'll get to 'em J ! ! But I'm in the middle of some stuff right now.
Besides, I think I put up more pix from this day than you did from ZM. BWA HA hahahaaa!!!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Jul 14, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
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Those kind of look like petrified trees that you put in your yard. Most appropriate.
You guys have to pay/bribe Jeremy much? Not to blab, that is?
What kind of rock is it, anyway? Sort of looks like conglomesandrate.
We have lots of dampness at the moment - maybe we should trade.
bonsai = gnarled little tree. banzai = Japanese warrior cry.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 14, 2011 - 09:12pm PT
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damn, wish I coulda been there.
Looks so fun!
My kind of freakshow.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Jul 14, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
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Stalwart Youth? I've heard him described using other words....
;-)
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Jul 15, 2011 - 12:33am PT
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capybara? Metrosexual? Bueller?
Lembert Dome? ;-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 15, 2011 - 11:31am PT
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Mark, well...he's more youthful than Lepton & I, and probably more stalwart too, so I didn't figure I was that far off!!
Jefe, would've loved to have you there too. You'd fit right in with that gang of misfit toys....
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Zander
climber
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Jul 15, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
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Nice!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jul 15, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
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WTF Farmer Bruce MORE PICTURES!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 15, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
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The elesdee is kicking in again......
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jul 15, 2011 - 01:24pm PT
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Flashback Mode. What shutter speed is that first one? I don't get out to the desert too much, but thanks for the constant scenery.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 15, 2011 - 05:05pm PT
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Flashback Mode. What shutter speed is that first one?
That shutter speed my friend was called aw-to-ma-tic. I'm so lame I have no idea what I'm doing. I just play with it...HA!!
Anders, it's red granite.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 16, 2011 - 11:54am PT
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Alpinista55
Mountain climber
Portland, OR
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Jul 18, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
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Hey BB -
This is the first TR of yours that I think might still be in my range. I love nice long ridges! And I haven't seen colors like those in those last few psycho-delic ones since we descended from the Dragontail!!!
PS, planning a run down the Columbia to the sea late August aboard Betty Lou. Wanna come?
Jk
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Jul 18, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
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JAY!!!! Alpinista55 post, I'm a fecking hero......
I would go up there with you at the drop of a hat bro.
I'd go damn near anywhere with you at the drop of a hat.
I WILL get to that boat eventually too!! I will probably be in OR in the spring???
Take me out to Beacon and drag me up some 11 cracks. C'mon man, I know you can do it.....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Aug 1, 2014 - 12:26pm PT
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Bump for one of the not 8 Werner birthday threads.
Peace to Lepton Man and Jeremy.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Aug 1, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
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Trad is Rad
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo California
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this is in the sandias ,correct?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Aug 1, 2014 - 03:36pm PT
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Correct you are sir!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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What a beautiful place, I gotta get me out there.
Nice manipulations survival, flashbacks.
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looks easy from here
climber
Santa Cruzish
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You can go outside in New Mexico in July without catching on fire?!
Looks like a fun time, and I love the orange and purple and spiral modded pic.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Aug 2, 2014 - 01:08am PT
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It's cooler than the Central Valley most of the time, especially when you go up high. Some of those formations top out at 10,000.
But yes, it can get "catch on fire" there too!
It was what 105 in Sacramento today and about 80 in ABQ?
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looks easy from here
climber
Santa Cruzish
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Somehow I always forget that the Continental Divide runs through NM and I just picture burning wastelands running all the way from Barstow east until everything gets a little wetter and becomes the boiling swamps of east Texas.
Looks beautiful, and now it's another thing for my to-do list. :)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Happy Birthday, Werner!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Gee, come mid-November through March, I wonder what I'll be thinking about?
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