Trip Report
Unemployment Line on Mt. Broderick - Another MUST-DO Yosemite gem!
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Monday April 11, 2016 8:59pm
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A few weeks ago I connected with Shaun Reed, a fellow climber from Colorado who seems as passionate about climbing as anyone I have...not met yet. While spraying about everything that I have ever climbed, I realized the Unemployment Line on Mt. Broderick was one of the lines he and Scott Nelson did the First Free Ascents of. They trained their asses off and were documented for a fairly cool North Face video of the climb. In any case, I was telling Shaun how much Cristiano and I enjoyed the climbing on their new route, how the best hold on the 11c traverse got ripped off, how cool the summit of Mt. Broderick is and how photogenic the route was...I was sure Sean didn't know it already. When I was about to send him my trip report with all the photos I took on the route, I realized one was never produced. OOPS. Maybe because I didn't have time, forgot, I don't know what, but it was not because I wanted to keep the experience to myself. Since I'd like to recommend the route to all those looking for a cool, difficult (for an average weekend warrior like me) climb to add to the Spring tick list!
My first attempt at climbing the Unemployment Line, ended up at the Cookie Cliff, as I created a giant clusterfk and wasted a ton of time by starting up a different route to the right of the UL. A month or a few seasons later I returned with Cristiano so that we could actually find the damn thing. To my surprise, we did. All we had to do was to face the difficulties and to climb it, which was much better than hiking down and driving to the Cookie Cliff. The quality of pitches was like stacking some of the cookie cliff gems on top of each other. Kind of like lapping Catchy Corner with a lot more variability, much better views, no fixed ropes in your face and no one to wait for. Bring small offsets for the first pitch, extras in fingers to #1 camalot and get on this thing, as it WILL have lines in the future!
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On the approach, you will see a waterfall. If you pass two....no comment.
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I saw the route, got nervous and this is what I do when I get nervous....and f*#k no it is not an energy bar
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Cristiano on pitch 1. Bring small gear and offsets to be less scared. Don't bring them to be more scared.
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Why are there so many planes above the Yosemite NP all the time?
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Aim for that flake, which is the gnar gnar
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The granite is so so, the views are okkkaaayy
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Me about to get into fun under-clinging with cool footwork. The psyche is high!
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Nice and expozzzeeddd
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Cris during the underclingathon
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PPPSSSAAAAATTTT MOFFFUKKKAAAA...or more like breath!
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The following pitch is good and tough!
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Me somewhere up there with good granite and a stance appropriate for a photo stop. Not many of those around.
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Cris about to crank to the belay
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Is there ever too much of this view?!
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There were some guys slacklining across the Vevada falls. Wild to witness!
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There is a nice view of Half Dome from the summit, but in the ideal world you know who will bring his power drill and make the line rapellable with a 70M rope from the top of pitch 6. WOOOT!
GO GET IT! Spring and Autumn is the best time to do this route as the cliff is south facing and warm!
BETA!
Beta! https://www.mountainproject.com/v/unemployment-line/109152364
Video Spray
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TOP NOTCH QUALITY SPRAY: http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/
Vitaliy M.
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About the Author
Vitaliy M. is an annoying gym climber from San Francisco. |
Comments
Stewart Johnson
Gym climber
top lake
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Apr 11, 2016 - 09:20pm PT
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Way to go studly!
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Apr 11, 2016 - 09:44pm PT
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That undercling pitch looks like it would be so much fun!!!! (if I were strong)
PS. Delete the s from https on your MP link so it's clickable. I copy/pasted and was sad to see 5.12-.... Someday....
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Apr 11, 2016 - 10:37pm PT
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...!!!...
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Apr 12, 2016 - 05:04am PT
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Wow, nice!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Apr 12, 2016 - 05:32am PT
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I nominate Vit for the most productive human being in the history of mankind
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Apr 12, 2016 - 05:51am PT
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Nice!
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 12, 2016 - 07:38am PT
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Walked by it so many times and never crossed my mind to even think it would be a good route.
WRONG!!!
Looks real good and thanks for the heads up with this report.
Keep on truckin Vitaliy ....
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Author's Reply
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Apr 12, 2016 - 09:02am PT
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was sad to see 5.12-.... Someday....
It is mostly 5.10-11 pitches with a few short cruxes which are well protected and easy to pull through. I personally I tried the crux moves maybe 3 times than pulled through on that section.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Apr 12, 2016 - 09:53am PT
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I stared hard at it last spring when hiking by, til finally the wife had to pull my ear to get me going. In your pics it looks so damn good. Thanks for the TR!
Partner and I were recently at an indecision point on whether to bring a second line and haul the pack. Decided not to, but still wonder if hauling isn't the smarter plan. Is that what you guys do when pushing limits?
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Burnin' Oil
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 12, 2016 - 10:27am PT
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What a great looking climb. The picture of Chris following with the cam hanging on the rope says it all.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 12, 2016 - 11:03am PT
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Nice! I look forward to your next TR.
John
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Author's Reply
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Apr 12, 2016 - 11:04am PT
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Partner and I were recently at an indecision point on whether to bring a second line and haul the pack. Decided not to, but still wonder if hauling isn't the smarter plan. Is that what you guys do when pushing limits?
I had a 6mm 40M tagline and a microtrax for that, Astroman, Rostrum, Emperor, new routes or whatever climb my partner and I would rather follow without the pack. In addition, we break the climb into blocks based on our strengths/weaknesses and desires. For example, if you are doing the unemployment line, you have to bring up your approach shoes, maybe 1 or 1.5L of water each, some food, two jackets and something I am forgetting to include. So about 15lbs for the follower. Not too bad, but I feel fairly trashed if I have to climb an enduro pitch at/or above my onsight limit without the added weight, WITH additional 15 lbs. Has worked well so far. But my tagline got chewed up by a rat of some sort, need to replace it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 12, 2016 - 11:09am PT
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April is here. Hope you got something fun planned for the next line.
stoke is high, no one is on injured reserve, you got to send!
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bob
climber
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Apr 12, 2016 - 11:51am PT
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Nice V. That line looks great great great!!! Appreciate you sharing as always. Thank you.
Now why not go give The Lurch a go this summer and tell us what you think? 😀
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Apr 12, 2016 - 11:59am PT
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Since I'd like to recommend the route to all those looking for a cool, difficult (for an average weekend warrior like me) climb to add to the Spring tick list!
"AVERAGE WEEKEND WARRIOR LIKE ME". Ha. Pffft. Nice try Brah. You climb like 400 days a year, bro. And word on the street is that you don't have a job and that you live off a trust fund. The term Weekend Warrior is reserved for guys like me who ONLY ever climb on Saturdays or Sundays. And rarely at that.
If you're a weekend warrior then that makes the rest of us wannabe poseur princesses who need to find a new hobby. Nice send and killer photos though.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Apr 12, 2016 - 12:11pm PT
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Wow,nice looking climb! Some 12+ snacking,too.
Burch: why do you want to post something like that?
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brotherbbock
climber
So-Cal
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Apr 12, 2016 - 02:11pm PT
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Granite and views both looked terrible...... ;)
Well done sir looked super fun.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Apr 12, 2016 - 06:22pm PT
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Inspiring V, you are a lucky man!!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Apr 12, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
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I saw the route, got nervous and this is what I do when I get nervous....and f*#k no it is not an energy bar That is sooo the opposite of what I do when I get nervous, and it does kind of look like a clif bar
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Apr 12, 2016 - 07:41pm PT
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Meanwhile I just had some beers and good food. Kinda the same thing, maybe your pics are better, but whatever.
Awesome pics bro.
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fosburg
climber
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Apr 12, 2016 - 08:05pm PT
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Looks great, thanks!
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Apr 12, 2016 - 09:40pm PT
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Thanks for fueling the early season climbing stoke!
Great report
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Apr 12, 2016 - 09:45pm PT
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Incredible!
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Hoots
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 14, 2016 - 09:15am PT
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Hell yes! I need to remember how to rock climb- that looks amazing.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 14, 2016 - 09:53am PT
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I thought there were laws against underclinging in national parks?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Apr 14, 2016 - 10:31am PT
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Pretty special. It's 'no work' for those guys!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Apr 14, 2016 - 12:20pm PT
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Glorious position, and great looking route if your body can get it done!
Just a few days ago I came face to face with how not bold I am on lead nowadays, and I cringed a bit imagining myself on that last runout section before the belay in your pic. It does look like a pretty clean fall though.
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bullet head
Mountain climber
CA
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Apr 27, 2016 - 07:02pm PT
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Thanks for this TR and photos; if you are curious about those "airplanes" look up geoengineering. This is global and lower level, far below airline or military jet cruise altitude.
Dane Wigington of geoengineeringwatch.org is good, and here is Prince on the subject
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uud_T-IIgHk
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Author's Reply
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Apr 28, 2016 - 02:02pm PT
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bullet head, looks like some Alex Jones type of sh#t.
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