Day 1: Tunnel Vision
We got up early and had this route to ourselves. It was amazing!
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 Day 1: Tunnel Vision (5.7R) goes up the X-like formation in the center of the wall and then follows the left crack/dihedral up before tunneling through the wall on the 5th pitch. Credit: timmaly |
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 Tunnel Vision offers great climbing between massive belay ledges and a NE aspect that kept us cool in the 89F heat. Credit: timmaly |
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 Cool, featured chimney climbing was pretty easy after all our chimney practice in Yosemite this year. Credit: timmaly |
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 Jess peering into the tunnel on P5 Credit: timmaly |
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 The tunnel added a really cool twist to the climb Credit: timmaly |
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Day 2: Frogland
A stellar climb...with stellar crowds (we were unlucky) which took away from the experience a bit. But all in, I would highly recommend this climb.
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 Day 2: Frogland (5.8) ascends to the right of the obvious white feature running up the center of the wall. Credit: timmaly |
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 Looking up P1: white flake to L-facing dihedral. Credit: timmaly |
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 Looking up at the thin traverse left under the roof, mid-way up the route. Credit: timmaly |
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 Looking up at the chockstone on ~P5...one of the coolest features I've seen on a route (you tunnel under it to the left) Credit: timmaly |
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 Jess coming up to the chockstone Credit: timmaly |
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 Jess coming up the face on the final pitch. Credit: timmaly |
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Day 3: Birdland
After 2 days climbing shady, NE aspects we decided to brave the sun. It was brutal, but the climb was worth it!
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 Birdland (5.7) goes up the center, varnished section of the wall on the right side of Pine Creek Canyon. Credit: timmaly |
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 The super-featured face with tons of plates, flakes, cracks and knobs was like an outdoor gym. Credit: timmaly |
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 Cool traverse on P3...sweating like pigs by this point Credit: timmaly |
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 Jess approaching the crux finger crack on P5. Yeah, I got in trouble for taking this pic later... Credit: timmaly |
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Besides being in full sun, Birdland is notorious for snagging ropes on the rappel. We got ours stuck several times, yielding a bonus chimney pitch at one point to retrieve it!
Day 4: Bruja's Brew
After scorching in the sun the prior day, we were back in search of shade and hit Lotta Balls wall to try Bruja's Brew, a shorter climb (4-pitches) but a step up in difficulty.
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 Day 4: Bruja's Brew (5.9) goes up and over the first roof, off right on the face and then up and over the second roof at the top. Credit: timmaly |
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 Heading into the first roof - this first pitch was one of the best pitches of climbing I have ever done. Credit: timmaly |
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Above the second roof the climbing eased considerably and it was low 5th class to the top.
Day 5: San Felipe and Wholesome Fullback
Continuing with our shade formula, we hit Black Velvet Canyon the next day for a couple of shorter, more difficult climbs. First was San Felipe, a long (16 quick draws!) sport climb and then we did Wholesome Fullback, an unbelievable 2-pitch crack climb.
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 The start of Wholesome Fullback (10a), an unbelievable finger-to-hand crack with a traverse under a roof and a chimney to finish it off...this climb has everything! And it was even better than the first pitch of Bruja's Brew! Credit: timmaly |
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 Yeah, I sewed up the thin 10a finger section after peeling off it the first time up... Credit: timmaly |
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We finished the week with some cragging in Calico and a rest day. All in, a fantastic week and we can't wait to go again!
