Trip Report
Wham!
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Sunday December 20, 2015 8:13am
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I saw a picture of this peak in some tourist magazine in Durango and I knew I just had to climb it. One of the most beautiful lines I've ever seen in the mountains.
Many people do this in a day, which involves over 20 miles of hiking and some 7,000 total vertical gain on the round trip. It is no small feat that Mr. Donini did this in 12+ hours this summer.
Other people take the train in, cutting the 10 mile approach down to a little over 6.
Me, I wanted to get away from it all for a few days. Actually, it took me 2 attempts. Once in early July, there was more snow than I had expected and I backed off some half way up the ridge after seeing a lot of snow on the saddle between Vestal and Arrow. All the snow I had encountered to that point was completely rotten and would not support any weight (it had not dropped below freezing for a few days). I'm glad I bailed the first time, knowing now what the descent is like.
The best part of the first trip was all the wildlife:
And all the water:
Reeotch
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About the Author
Rich Ludwig is a climber, biker and adventurer currently residing in Kayenta AZ on the Navajo Nation where he teaches high school biology. |
Comments
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 20, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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it is nice to be able to move in the mountains at the command of our whims...
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 20, 2015 - 08:36am PT
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Author's Reply
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Dec 20, 2015 - 08:45am PT
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I went back in late Sept. A perfect excuse to take a couple days off. I was in much better shape now, but that hike still kicked my ass with 40 extra pounds on my back. This time I camped lower down where there are still trees.
This time the climb went smoothly. 5.4 is an accurate rating for this climb. It is a bit intimidating looking at it from below (and without a rope), but once you get up on it "its all there".
I don't know if I got off route on the descent. I downclimbed past one rap anchor, and was happy there was no snow and ice. I was glad I backed off in July. Good thing to be conservative when climbing alone
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 20, 2015 - 09:05am PT
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Saddle up!
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 20, 2015 - 09:10am PT
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nice work bro!
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Dec 21, 2015 - 12:40pm PT
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Thanks for the report.
Good objective.
Here's my history with this climb for those with patience to read a too long, inconclusive and somewhat pathetic story.
I first saw Vestal's Wham Ridge from afar while on a 1967 Colorado Outward Bound trip, at age 16. My instructor, in his first season at a COB, the well known climber John X Evans (who climbed Lt. Logan via Hummingbird Ridge and made the first ascents in Antartica's highest peaks on a National Geo expedition and became the COB director) said we'd be climbing Wham/Vestal in a few days times. (We never did but we did our three day solos in Elk Creek below Vestal).
So, I have fantasized about climbing this route "someday" since my youth. So far, no tic.
An attempt in the mid 1990's got aborted because my wife had given me a peremptorily short deadline in which I had to do the climb or she would call search and rescue. She was just malicious enough to carry through on the threat so when i reached the base of the climb, I turned back to meet the deadline. Oh well. Into every life a little rain must fall.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 20, 2015 - 10:22am PT
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That is one beautiful peak. nice TR!~
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perswig
climber
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Dec 20, 2015 - 11:32am PT
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Cool objective!
Good camo on that ptar, and nice composition on the scree-to-toe-to-peak pic.
Dale
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Dec 20, 2015 - 03:13pm PT
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That line has always been intriguing. TFPU.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
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Dec 20, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
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This was really beautiful.
Susan
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Dec 20, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
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A wonderful TR, thank you!
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ECF
Big Wall climber
Ridgway CO
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Dec 20, 2015 - 04:57pm PT
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Thanks for the pics.
I'm all over that next summer.
Twp, you wanna go again?
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RyanD
climber
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Dec 20, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
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I can see why this line demanded your attention. Excellent.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 20, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
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Are you talking about the ridge that makes the left skyline or the sun - shade Arête? I see two nice features, along with the face... :)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 20, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
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Wheee!
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Dec 20, 2015 - 10:02pm PT
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Vitaliy- the wham ridge is the one defined by sunlight shade. But there is a lot of other apparently fun stuff on that face. Sorry to say I have not had the pleasure partaking.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Dec 21, 2015 - 08:20am PT
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love that ridge. the car to car in a day deal is supposedly the way to do it.
EDIT: you're right, Reotch, taking the time to ogle those fat cutthroats in Vestal Lake, awakening from the tent in that low meadow to dodge the moose, savoring the way that the crowds disperse during the week, that is a great way to experience the area. I have not yet done the mind-melting, endorphin-sopped sensory blur of the car-to-car from Molas yet, for more reasons than just sore knees.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Author's Reply
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Dec 21, 2015 - 04:49am PT
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Yeah I'd consider a car to car bid, now. I'm not a big endurance athlete. Besides, I would have missed all the cool wildlife and other wilderness experiences worrying about weather the cartilage in my ankles and knees was going to hold out. My friend from Durango did the Trinities traverse car to car in a day (same approach, but more like 25 miles round trip).
I see speed climbing and pushing crazy car to car epics as a very specialized form of climbing. In some ways we are bringing our fast paced high stress lifestyle into the Mountains with us. Consider that these mountains have much more to offer than simply a proving ground for ego fueled one-ups-manship. You need to find those quiet pristine places once in a while, or this modern city life will eat your soul.
On another note, I bet the big face to the left of Wham Ridge would make an incredible winter mixed climb. I'm wondering if that has ever been done?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 21, 2015 - 05:34am PT
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Nice, great adventure.....should be on everyone's short list! I'm in Patagonia.....bad weather day, doing internet, heading out to explore a potential pack raft river.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Dec 21, 2015 - 05:42am PT
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yeah reotch. Looks like a nice climb, and wonderful craftsmanship on the tarp. 40 pound pack though? what were you carrying? surely you know how to pack lighter than that. Glad to see you getting to enjoy time in the mountains. x j
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Dec 21, 2015 - 06:26am PT
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You mean there's climbing outside California? Nice.
BAd
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661climber
climber
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Dec 22, 2015 - 02:38pm PT
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Bump, wanted to do this one for a long time
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