Trip Report - September 21, 1979
New Hampshire Rock Climbing
Ed Hartouni, Mike, Richie, and Bill...

Perhaps the first climbing trip/photos that I have were taken on this trip from New York to New Hampshire to climb at Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges. I'm not sure I recall all the details. They lived in New York City, while I had moved to Tarrytown, up the Hudson River north of the city that year. However we arranged to meet, we had a 360+ mile drive up to North Conway.

I'm guessing we drove up as early as possible on Friday 9/21. We were in my 1961 split window VW bus, California license plate, gold on brown, ZOT580. Here we are at a pit stop along the way
[Click to View Linked Image]
That's Mike, Richie and Bill, left-to-right.

[these negatives are Kodak Kodacolor II which are not in the greatest of shape... there are a lot of artifacts, fading, etc... the camera was a Kodak Signet 35 Camera, with a Kodak Ektar Lens, 44mm f3.5 which Debbie's sister gave to us]

We setup camp somewhere outside of North Conway, but i don't recall where, it seems to have been a real campground as we have a picnic table...
[Click to View Linked Image]

I'm pretty sure that Mike and Bill slept in the tent, Richie in the yellow tube tent and I slept in the bus.

While both Mike and I had climbed and camped as kids, I'm not sure that either Bill or Richie ever had... perhaps there was some skepticism that food could be cooked on a Bluet stove?
[Click to View Linked Image]

Getting organized for the climb... Mike is wearing classic trousers, revealing his patches as he leans into the van to sort gear
[Click to View Linked Image]

We motor out to the crag, it is a bit different today I know...
Richie finds some friends tied up waiting for their owners to return.
[Click to View Linked Image]

There is nothing quite so wonderful as walking through the woods in the northeast in autumn.
[Click to View Linked Image]

Since Richie and Bill have had only limited climbing experience (probably a few times in the 'Gunks) we pick Beginner's Route 5.4 on Whitehorse Ledge. The Ross and Ellms 1978 guide warns:

"This route is easy but only if one is used to friction climbing on Whitehorse. Beginner climbers should be cautious of attempting to lead the climb as the runouts between protection are long."

It is shown as a 10 pitch climb. Mike belays Bill up the first pitch. I probably lead Richie on the second rope.
[Click to View Linked Image]

And further up the slab Mike and Bill at some belay
[Click to View Linked Image]

The views are typical of the Mt. Washington Valley... verdant.
[Click to View Linked Image]

At the top (?) getting the kit together... state-of-the-art rack for 1979!
[Click to View Linked Image]

The next day we set off for Cathedral Ledge. We choose Refuse 5.5 a five pitch climb.

"One of the most popular routes on the cliff. A good introduction to Cathedral for intermediate climbers."

Here is Mike leading the first pitch:
[Click to View Linked Image]

And the next pitch is described thus "Climb the large fir tree at the back of the ledge to the long large tree covered ledge. Note: the off width, slightly overhanging crack in the corner on the right of the tree can be climbed at 5.8. It is usually dirty and poorly protected." We opted for the tree, here Mike leads through:
[Click to View Linked Image]
note the tied off limb. You can also see the "usually dirty" off width crack! I hear the tree has departed and the route goes someplace else now.

Looking across the valley...
[Click to View Linked Image]
somewhere over there Bierstadt painted these cliffs before there were all the trees...
[Click to View Linked Image]
Moat Mountain, Intervale, New Hampshire, ca. 1862 Albert Bierstadt

Here is a picture of me leading, not so sure how far the top is from here...
[Click to View Linked Image]
...fashionable orange-and-black rugby shirt... maybe they'll come back into style?!

My guess is that we touristed around a bit, checking out the climbs for "the next time"
[Click to View Linked Image]
and what climbs we might do... here I'm pointing out something to Mike and Bill, apparently Richie took this shot (damn hard to see if things were in focus in that tiny view finder).

I've been back several times to these cliffs to climb over the decades but I don't think that Bill or Richie or Mike had been. I have climbed with Mike in the White Mountains, but that was mostly in the winter, and on ice. Mike and I have climbed many other places together over 30+ years, just not N.Conway.

We left on Sunday for the long drive back and were at work on Monday... all of us graduate students at Columbia U.

Sorry for being a bit late on the TR, it sure doesn't seem like 30 years ago.